Customer Questions and Answers for Washer Timer Control by Whirlpool

HI Daryl thanks for your question.
the fact that the 4-amp fuse blows again is the biggest clue. I would not condemn the motor yet. This washer uses a lid-switch/check-switch safety circuit, and an open fuse can be associated with a fault in that circuit. The model does use W10820036 and WP207166 in the lid-switch system.

Since this started while working around the lid switches, I would go back over that installation first.

First — Recheck the Lid-Switch Wiring

Unplug the washer before doing this.

Since both W10820036 and WP207166 were replaced, make absolutely sure every wire was reinstalled on the correct terminal.

Don't go strictly by where a terminal physically fits on the replacement switch. Compare the wiring to the washer's wiring diagram and, if available, your pictures of the original switches.

Look closely for:

A wire installed on the wrong terminal of either new switch.
Two wires accidentally swapped.
A terminal pushed on only halfway.
A loose female spade connector touching the switch bracket or cabinet.
Pinched insulation or a bare section of wire.
A terminal that backed out while reinstalling the switch assembly.
The switch assembly being adjusted incorrectly so the lid switch and check switch operate in the wrong sequence.

This is especially important because the check switch isn't simply another identical ON/OFF lid switch; WP207166 is a separate lid-check switch in this safety circuit.

Why I'm Concentrating on Those Switches

The repeated fuse failure after replacing/reinstalling the switches makes the lid-switch safety circuit my first suspect.

Maytag used a lid-switch failure detector on washers of this design. Its purpose is to shut the machine down if the lid-switch circuit doesn't operate correctly. Maytag service information for this style of system specifically describes the lid switch, check switch and fuse working together and emphasizes proper adjustment of the switch assembly.

So I would not keep installing new fuses and trying the washer until the switch wiring and operation have been verified. A replacement fuse blowing again is telling us there is still a circuit problem.

Check the Mechanical Adjustment Too

With the washer unplugged, operate the lid slowly while watching/listening to the switch mechanism.

Make sure the lid actuator is actually operating both switches properly and that neither switch is being held in the wrong position.

This matters because Maytag's service procedure specifically calls for adjusting the switch assembly so the switches change state at the proper point in lid travel.

Then Check the Motor Circuit

Once the lid-switch wiring and adjustment are definitely correct, I'd move underneath.

Because you get no motor hum, click, or attempt to start, check whether the motor is actually receiving voltage when the timer is placed in Spin.

Live Power Warning: This is a live 120-volt test. If you're not comfortable testing energized equipment, stop here.

With the lid closed and the machine calling for Spin:

No voltage reaching the motor: work backward toward the lid/check-switch circuit, wiring and timer.

Correct voltage reaching the motor but absolutely no motor operation: then the motor/motor start switch becomes a strong suspect.

The timer is also possible, especially since you're seeing different behavior depending on timer position. This model's parts information identifies the timer as WP22001023.

What I'd Do Next

My order would be:

Fuse blows ? stop ? verify W10820036/WP207166 wiring terminal-by-terminal ? inspect for grounded/pinched wires ? verify switch adjustment ? then check voltage to the motor in Spin.

Because this problem appeared immediately around the lid-switch/fuse event, I'd put incorrectly connected, misadjusted, or shorted lid-switch wiring ahead of the motor or timer on the suspect list.

One other thing: I would verify the correct fuse rating from the wiring diagram attached to this particular LAT9824AAE before replacing it again. The Maytag service literature I found for a closely related switch/fuse system specifies a different fuse rating, so I wouldn't assume that a 4-amp fuse is correct just because that's what was installed previously.