How to Troubleshoot & Replace Ge AP7216121 / WB13X46909 Cooktop Spark Module

Refer to Mynor T. of Draper, UT Aug. 12, 2018 write-up. I benefited greatly from the above write-up. It took me a little less time to perform this repair (excluding cleaning the assembly) due to the write-up. This GE Profile gas burner cook top is a “drop-in” model meant to be installed into counter top cut outs. The glass top edges are the actual support area for the entire cook top assembly. The burner bases (on top of the glass top) are screwed to the metal case enclosure (located beneath the glass top); i.e. the burner bases support everything beneath the glass. The only things I would add are: 1) I carefully lifted the entire assembly out of the counter cut out and raised it only a few inches; enough to slip two 2x4s underneath the enclosure. The 2x4s were long enough to span across the cut out and rested on the counter top. The 2x4s were spaced far enough apart to provide stability and solidly support the entire assembly. 2) After I did the above, I was able to easily remove the burner bases and glass top to access the switch harness and spark module in the metal enclosure beneath. I carefully placed and wrapped the glass top in a safe area away from the work area until I was ready to reinstall it. 3) There were 8 #15 Torx screws (two per each burner base - 4 burners total) to remove and separate the bases and glass top from the enclosure underneath. I purchased a new switch harness and spark module. I was able to reuse all burner base gaskets, except the largest one (right front corner burner) which I purchased new. After all replacement parts were installed, reassembly was complete, and the unit dropped back into place it was ready to be turned on. Voilà. It worked perfectly. This was the first time I ever repaired a cook top and I saved a bundle by fixing it myself. Just takes a bit of time to analyze the issues and reading the Appliance Parts Pros trouble shooting and customer write ups. 

Replaced the spark module 

After looking at exploded view of controls (on your website) it appeared that I needed a new spark module and/or a new wiring harness. I ordered both parts (which were delivered in 2 days). After remoiving the burner elements from the cooktop and unplugged spark ignitor wires from burners the top was removed easily. The new parts were installed using diagrams supplied (and common sense by color coded wires and numbers on spark module). The wiring harness was also easy to install by noting how the original harness connected (video helped in seeing how individual burner elements of the harness were removed and new installed. Total time for repair approximately 45 min. Power and gas were off during the repair. 

After 2 years of lighting my GE profile ng cooktop my wife finally put her foot down and said, "get this thing fixed now" or go out buy a new high end cooktop for me....Being the spendthrift I am, I quickly compared service call and parts expense to the cost of the high end cooktop and realized This was gonna be expensive either way! So, in true diy fashion I watched the videos on appliancepartspros and realized how easy of a job this actually was... $82 and 1.5 days later the problem was fixed and the old cooktop igniters working better than ever!! Would have been even cheaper, but went ahead and replaced the igniter switch harness, the ceramic igniters, and clips along with the igniter module...super easy and saved a bundle... 

Took a gamble on separating the glass top from the metal encasing containing the shorted out modules. No videos or explanations for my particular model. The top is held to the bottom by way of 2 #15 torx screws per burner ( 4 total) Once they were out, pried the top from bottom with thinnest putty knife available. Be careful to SLOWLY pry all the way around the unit so you can lift straight up. My burner gaskets were pretty much welded on at this point in its life so order a new set IMHO. Separate the burners from top by gently twisting and pulling up. Next grab the top from middle sides and lift up, it will be sticky but the weight of the bottom metal unit will win. Now you can rest the top back down, separate the burners and lay next to their opening as you need to remove the piezo wires from igniters. Be careful with the porcelain bodies. Now that the burners are removed lift and set top aside. Voila your innards are now exposed to service. It goes without saying that BEFORE you do anything you have shut off gas valve and turned off the breaker. Good luck. 

Ordered parts and installed. 

After a thorough cleaning I decided to change the spark module, harness switch and harness wire burner. Part #318, #323 and #999. I accidentally swapped one wire from the power cord and harness switch. With the help of Suzanne Y. of Appliance Part Pros.com, I was able to correct my error. She emailed me a schematic diagram of my cooktop which helped me to find my problem. My cooktop is now working like new. 

I looked on YouTube to find out what could be the problem and they said it could be the switches or spark module. I replaced both and the problem was fixed. 

Replacement 

Replaced harness switch, gas valve and spark module. Most of the time was spent on removing cook top and oven also turned off breaker for oven