Do-It-Yourself Story

Refer to Mynor T. of Draper, UT Aug. 12, 2018 write-up. I benefited greatly from the above write-up. It took me a little less time to perform this repair (excluding cleaning the assembly) due to the write-up. This GE Profile gas burner cook top is a “drop-in” model meant to be installed into counter top cut outs. The glass top edges are the actual support area for the entire cook top assembly. The burner bases (on top of the glass top) are screwed to the metal case enclosure (located beneath the glass top); i.e. the burner bases support everything beneath the glass. The only things I would add are: 1) I carefully lifted the entire assembly out of the counter cut out and raised it only a few inches; enough to slip two 2x4s underneath the enclosure. The 2x4s were long enough to span across the cut out and rested on the counter top. The 2x4s were spaced far enough apart to provide stability and solidly support the entire assembly. 2) After I did the above, I was able to easily remove the burner bases and glass top to access the switch harness and spark module in the metal enclosure beneath. I carefully placed and wrapped the glass top in a safe area away from the work area until I was ready to reinstall it. 3) There were 8 #15 Torx screws (two per each burner base - 4 burners total) to remove and separate the bases and glass top from the enclosure underneath. I purchased a new switch harness and spark module. I was able to reuse all burner base gaskets, except the largest one (right front corner burner) which I purchased new. After all replacement parts were installed, reassembly was complete, and the unit dropped back into place it was ready to be turned on. Voilà. It worked perfectly. This was the first time I ever repaired a cook top and I saved a bundle by fixing it myself. Just takes a bit of time to analyze the issues and reading the Appliance Parts Pros trouble shooting and customer write ups.