Ge WB18T10452 Cooktop Igniter Switch Harness Assembly OEM Part

Refer to Mynor T. of Draper, UT Aug. 12, 2018 write-up. I benefited greatly from the above write-up. It took me a little less time to perform this repair (excluding cleaning the assembly) due to the write-up. This GE Profile gas burner cook top is a “drop-in” model meant to be installed into counter top cut outs. The glass top edges are the actual support area for the entire cook top assembly. The burner bases (on top of the glass top) are screwed to the metal case enclosure (located beneath the glass top); i.e. the burner bases support everything beneath the glass. The only things I would add are: 1) I carefully lifted the entire assembly out of the counter cut out and raised it only a few inches; enough to slip two 2x4s underneath the enclosure. The 2x4s were long enough to span across the cut out and rested on the counter top. The 2x4s were spaced far enough apart to provide stability and solidly support the entire assembly. 2) After I did the above, I was able to easily remove the burner bases and glass top to access the switch harness and spark module in the metal enclosure beneath. I carefully placed and wrapped the glass top in a safe area away from the work area until I was ready to reinstall it. 3) There were 8 #15 Torx screws (two per each burner base - 4 burners total) to remove and separate the bases and glass top from the enclosure underneath. I purchased a new switch harness and spark module. I was able to reuse all burner base gaskets, except the largest one (right front corner burner) which I purchased new. After all replacement parts were installed, reassembly was complete, and the unit dropped back into place it was ready to be turned on. Voilà. It worked perfectly. This was the first time I ever repaired a cook top and I saved a bundle by fixing it myself. Just takes a bit of time to analyze the issues and reading the Appliance Parts Pros trouble shooting and customer write ups.

Immediately unplugged the gas range, turned off the gas, removed the range and disassembled it. Obviously the harness that controls the gas was damaged so I did a Buick google search and found all of the parts I would need on here. Placed the order and fixed my range 2 days later.

Took a gamble on separating the glass top from the metal encasing containing the shorted out modules. No videos or explanations for my particular model. The top is held to the bottom by way of 2 #15 torx screws per burner ( 4 total) Once they were out, pried the top from bottom with thinnest putty knife available. Be careful to SLOWLY pry all the way around the unit so you can lift straight up. My burner gaskets were pretty much welded on at this point in its life so order a new set IMHO. Separate the burners from top by gently twisting and pulling up. Next grab the top from middle sides and lift up, it will be sticky but the weight of the bottom metal unit will win. Now you can rest the top back down, separate the burners and lay next to their opening as you need to remove the piezo wires from igniters. Be careful with the porcelain bodies. Now that the burners are removed lift and set top aside. Voila your innards are now exposed to service. It goes without saying that BEFORE you do anything you have shut off gas valve and turned off the breaker. Good luck.

Watch a video on appliancepartspros.com was able to install The harness switch and spark module. about 45 minutes.

Purchased a new Harness switch and it is now working fine.