Lg 4861FR3068A Washer Hose Clamp OEM Part

If your LG Front load washers sounds like a freight train, STOP USING IT. You're doing more damage and will need more parts to fix it. After the noise became unbearable, I began to explore and disassemble. I knew enough to know the bearings must be bad but had never done this repair before. ( I am however pretty mechanically inclined.) Watch this video before you start tearing your LG apart. APP did a great job explaining the steps of the repair. Do a search on this site or youtube.com with the main bearing part number: 4280fr4048. It will make the repair much easier, trust me. The repair requires that you completely remove the tub. Don't be intimidated, it's not that hard if you watch the video, just a lot of steps. Once you have the tub out and the rear tub assembly with the bad bearings unbolted from the front half, and have tapped out the tub spider / shaft. This is where things can get rough. Most likely your bearings are trashed, (that was what was making all the noise) and rusted in place. DON'T RUSH THIS STEP. Pounding out the old bearings or remaining outer ring from the bearing chases in the rear tub assembly might be tough. First, remove the pieces that are falling off or broken out and clean up the area so you can see what you are doing. Drench both bearings with some kind of penetrating oil like lock-ease or WD-40 so it will free up the bearings from the chase they are seated into, and go relax for while, (I waited until the next day and it payed off big-time). Get the right tools: I used a 1" deep well socket with a square edge so I could get a good grab on the left over outer ring of the bearing, and a 6" extension. Understand the bearings are made of hardened steel and your socket is not so as you tap and pound out the bearings, keep an eye on the damage you may be doing to the socket. You may be working through the inner hole in the old bearings opposite the bearing your are pounding out, and won't be able to see well what you are tapping or pounding on when you remove the first bearing. So be careful to use a solid flat head punch or socket like I did to avoid scoring the walls of the bearing chase. And switch positions a lot, few pops with your hammer and move to the opposite side 12-6, 9-3 on the clock and so on, over and over until you drive it out. Now, flip the tub assembly over and tap / pound out the other bearing the same way. Warning! Don't use the the wrong tools when pounding out the bearings. Don't use a screw driver! If you don't have a good flat head punch or some sockets you don't mind possibly sacrificing, go buy a good steel flat head punch. If you find you are wearing out your arm pounding, add more penetrating oil and take another break. DO NOT damage the bearing chases pounding out the opposite side bearing by resting your punch or extension against the edges of the opposite chases, (polished male recessed ring the bearings slide into) or you'll end up having to also buy a rear tub assembly at about $125.00. The chases are manufactured into the rear tub assembly. So be careful! Once you get the bearings out and the chases on both sides and the chases cleaned up. Inspect the chases closely. If you nicked then or crushed the edges in any way that causes the otherwise perfect circle to push in and potentially put undo pressure on the new bearing, you'll need to grind or file it down so the new bearing will fit into the chase properly, and not apply pressure to one spot of the bearing after you get it fully seated into the chase. If you made it this far, the hard part is over. Congrats! The next ussue you may run into is seating the drum back into the rear tub assembly. If you had to replace the spider which is also the tub shaft also like I did because a waited too long and trashed it too, in my case it did not easily slip completely into place, through the inner holes of the bearings. In an effort to try and seat the shaft to how far it extended originally, I placed a folder towel on the center of the back/bottom of the tub, and used a 1 1/2 foot 4x4 block of wood and carefully gave it a few hard pops with a hammer. It seated a little further but not fully so I stopped to avoid damaging the tub. I had another option to pull it on into place later during assembly. During re-assembly, when you put the motor cover back on and screw the large hex head bolt into the end of the shaft, if the shaft is not fully seated through the bearings and flush with the surface of the female motor housing, use the bolt to pull it on into place by repeatedly tightening the bolt by hand and pounding your ratchet handle 1/4 to 1/2 a full turn. Then back it out completely and inspect to verify you are pulling it closer to flush and not damaging to the motor housing. Repeat this process a little at a time until the shaft end is flush with the motor housing. This will completely seat the shaft, and the main seal on the inside will do it's job in sealing the bearings from tub moisture and possible leaks. From hear it should be smooth sailing. Follow the video instructions for reassembly. Once your done, congratulate yourself and know that you just saved yourself about $400 in labor and service call charges!

I suspected the tub gears where ready to break so I dismantled my LG WM2032HW front load washer. I found the spyder gear corroded and broken. I also found that the stainless steel drum abraded the front tub cover so bad, it was cracked. My washer is an early model and always had standing water in the door seal after a wash. What I learned is LG stopped making the orginal front tub cover and replaced it with one that had a drain hole at the bottom front edge. I also learned that this new front cover would only work with a new door seal that had a drain hole at the bottom. I had to buy a new hose that connected the door seal drain with the drain hole in the front tub cover. All in all, the repairt was somewhat easy. I replaced the tub bearings, tub seal, front tub cover, spyder gear, and the door seal. Washer working fine.

My problem was a broken spider. I followed your excellent video, but have some additional input that should be incorporated in a new video showing the required upgrade procedures and parts required to repair an early model with damaged front tub half using currently available parts. Don't expect everything to go as easy as the video. 1) Used 4lb. brass hammer to drive shaft from bearings. 2) Torqued spider bolts to 20ft lbs. with thread locking compound. 3) attached rubber seal to front tub cover before attaching the balance weights. Do like the video says and use vise-grips. 4) The new required heating element has the thermistor mounted to it with nonmatching electrical connectors. Had to make a pigtail from the old thermistor wiring harness by attaching two small female blade connectors with crimp fittings. Excellent parts supplier to deal with. Received 12 parts from three different states in four days just before Christmas by FedEx for $7. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

I figured after 10.5 years that it might be time to replace the dispenser hoses because I was noticing black stuff in the dispenser trays. I replaced two or the four hoses and clamps on the far left side and for good measure the hot water inlet valve. The inlet valve was okay but the screen had all kinds of crap in there that I couldn't clean out so now I have an extra solenoid just in case one of the others fails. While I was at it I removed the dispenser and cleaned the calcium build up on the outside and replace both the water inlet hoses with steel braided. Tip: I used some food grade lubricant sealant from my kegging stuff on the hoses ends and washers to help with sealing.

I called a repairman he told me what was wrong and the price to fix it. I told him I would buy the parts to lessen the repair cost. I couldn't find the correct part on line. But after talking to your Pro there I got the correct part in a couple of days. I will use you folks again when needed. Thanks for your help. Oh yea the price of the parts were good too.