Lg 5220FR2006H Water Inlet Valve Assembly OEM Part

Replaced the cold water valve unit (has 4 ports and 1 inlet) which is very straight forward; requires : 1 phillips screwdriver ~#2 1 needlenose plier, medium size 1 channel lock plier, medium size 1 marker pen 1 - cold water valve assembly # AP4445613 1 - hot water valve assembly #AP4441935 1 - water level pressure switch #AP4440713 an old towel or two for absorbing small amounts of water a cellphone / camera for making sure you have the correct connections at the correct locations. Disconnect power line and turn water supplies off. Unscrew watersupply line(s) using the channel lock to loosen the nuts and then by hand unscrew them. Not necessary normally to squeeze very hard, just grip and turn and the nuts should loosen up. Unscrew laundry unit upper cover at rear where there are 2 large plastic clips (4 phillips screws altogether); removing the cover takes a little jiggling. A plastic wallboard compound trowel can be used to start the cover by jamming it in between the cover and the base unit. Pull the cover back a few inches and lift away. In my case, the 2487 had a bad cold water valve as it would overfill or run intermittently; by manually turning off the supplyside valve, I could test the valve out during "normal" operation. I wasn't sure if the pressure sensor was bad too but the cold water valve was definitely bad. Since, I was going to have to open the machine up anyways, I decided to order the cold water valve, hot water valve and pressure sensor anyways. On the 2487 model, the cold water assembly has 4 electrical solenoid clips, the hot water has one. Put an old towel underneath the 2 valve units so when you pull the supply lines off, it can absorb the small amount of water that will run out. Take a couple of picture images of the assemblies, paying attention to the solenoid power connectors and the water lines connecting to the cold water assembly so you can refer to them if necessary when reassembling. Also, using a pen or marker, mark the cold water supply line clamps with some kind of number or indicator so you can have the correct order during reconnection. Pull the power solenoid lines off; I removed both cold and hot at the same time to give me some room. Then using the needlenose plier (or pipeclamp pliers), disconnect the water supply lines. I removed the cold water supplies first and then the assembly, then removed the hot water valve afterwards as the access wasn't too great. Not a big deal though. Reconnection is basically the reverse, paying attention to the correct hose locations and the correct electrical solenoid connections. The camera/cell phone pix were useful for that along with the pipe clamp markings. Super easy with that stuff. I decided not to do the water pressure sensor unless it was broken so I put it all back together to test the unit. So far have done 5 full loads and no problems.

Replaced the triple-solenoid cold water valve. I am 70 years old, and my washer/dryer set are 10 years old. They are LG brand. I found the model number in the owner's manual. The hardest part of the repair was moving two heavy beasts in a very confined space. I've replaced the two water pumps on the unit about 18 months ago and that was quite a challenge. This repair was a breeze. I removed the washer top, by unscrewing four screws at the back of the lid. This gave me very easy access to the solenoid valves. I decided that I would also replace the hot water solenoid at the same time, even though it wasn't leaking. If one valve wasn't sealing because it was worn or corroded from the water, I figured that the hot water solenoid would not be far behind it, and I didn't want to have to do it all again in a few months. I took a photo of the pipe connections and the wiring connections with my phone to ensure that I put it back together correctly. I worked unassisted, and it took me about 40 minutes to replace both the hot and could water solenoid valves. I literally spent more time clearing everything (baskets, clothes, cat's litter box, cat's food and water bowls, vacuum cleaners, chargers etc. etc.) from the laundry room than making the repairs. One thing worth noting - I shut off the hot and cold water faucets at the wall, and then ran a short wash cycle with nothing in the washer. After about 5 minutes I shut off the washer and unplugged it. That way I could be sure that the water pressure in the pipes and in the washer itself had been relieved and drained, and that the electricity was disconnected.

Purchased both cold / hot water inlet valves, as well as new drain pump motor. Since I knew I was going to be doing a few different things and wanted to make sure all the clamps went back on well on the fittings, AND had to retrieve a cheap broken utility brush that went through the filter trap and into the main hose that connects to the basket for dischage, i knew I was going to have to dissasemble a few areas. I followed the long method and removed the front frame of the washer. I have done this once before to replace seal. It took me about 3 hours to get that seal back on the first time. The second time it took 1 try and about 3-5 minutes when finally reassembling everything. The pump was easy enough to replace, but i have the mini washer pedestal from LG , and the though of 16 screws ( 4 each side) as well as the weight. without a helper, made it apparent real quick i was taking the long route to replace the pump vs going in from the bottom of the unit. So my order of repair was pull the broken brush head out , remove the pump plate. I took both the drain pump on left and the other pump on the right apart to clean and inspect. There was no resistance on the pump on the left. The unit was 8 years old so i thought while i had it apart this was best steps. While I wasn't sure which inlet valve was making the machine sound like screams from space mountain, i was sure I didnt want it in my life anymore. At 8 years age, It could have been either the hot or the cold. I just decided to replace both, and both are probably still good. After running a clean cycle all the vibrations had gone away, and the fill sounded normal. However with a clean cycle it still remained with that screeching whistling sound. As it turns out its my hot water valve on the wall ( requiring a plumber to replace) I was able to mitigate by tamping off the pressure a bit on the valve just a hair below half open. The washer sounds better than it ever has. Anyways. These three parts fixed me up hopefully for a few more years of life out of these laundry units. Code OE was the only code experienced. I am not extremely mechanically inclined, but i was very careful and took a lot of photos of where the wires came from and where they went back. The most difficult part was replacing the cold water valve. with 3 small clamps and water lines. I went with APP because the parts were available for next day delivery. giving me a weekend project on Thursday evening. I am slow and from start to finish the job took me about 10 hours. I cannot imaging going up from the bottom for that duration of time and not fearing the unit falling on my head for some stupid reason. In from the front, nice and easy and slow. The disadvantage is you cannot see the leaks this way if present. Thankfully , that was not an issue, as you have to re-attach the front facia and seal to even test the unit and latch the door. Other repairs that APP has assisted me with is a drain pump circulation pump for a dishwasher and a broken smooth top for a range. They are always great and almost always have the parts you need in stock for delivery!

This problem occurred before also a few years ago. I spent hundreds having a repairman come and fix it. This time around $$$ is extremely tight so i googled the problem and your website came up. I even saw that you had a video on how to replace the parts. I am a handyman and the job looked easy enough. The parts were ONE/FIFTH of the $$$ i paid last time around so i ordered them, got them in TWO DAYS ....no expedited shipping and installed them as per your video. THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!! washer works like a charm and i don't have a huge bill to pay !!! Normally i do not write these testimonies, but this one was worth doing !!!

At first I thought I had a water pump problem. I started by taking off the metal plate in the back of the unit. As I looked around I looked up because I felt water dripping. So I went and removed the top control panel, looked around and found that the hot water solenoid was the problem.Thank god it was an easy fix. Appliancepartspros.com had the part, quick and easy ordering and quick delivery.