Kenmore Dryer 110.87402810 (11087402810, 110 87402810) Parts

Replaced Read more

• Too hot
• No heat or not enough heat
• Shuts off too soon
• Takes too long to dry

This Maytag dryer was bought in 1985 if memory serves. It has worked hard with few repairs done by yours truly over the years. Thanks to the engineering and excellent design by Maytag staff, removing parts are relatively easy. Once I opened the unit, I found it to be full of lint. I cleaned the entire inside and the vent pipe duct work. I found the blower wheel assembly worn. Though it was not cause of my problem, I decided to change it along with the igniter, heater relay and the fan belt. I... Read more

Replaced the Rollers, Pins, belt and belt tensioner. One thing to keep in mind. In the video it was said that the back and front roller pins were different by lengths. They were the same length for my model. The differences were found to be the rear pins have left handed threads and the front ones were standard right hand threads. Keep that in-mind when you are trying to remove them. Read more

Bought the leveling feet and screwed them in the bottom and they work great. Read more

• Will not agitate
• Pumps but will not spin
• Will not tumble
• Noisy

Upon removal of the lower inspection panel on the front of the machine, my 20 year old son thought the motor was bad by the smell. But he did discover what turned out to be the belt tensioner pulley laying inside the machine. After he pronounced it dead, without a thought to the idler pulley, I looked at the machine and determined the lack of movement was due to the idler pulley having "fallen" off the shaft by looking at the illustrated parts break down provided on this website. Ordered the... Read more

Touch up paint Read more

This was actually one of the easiest fixes I’ve done. All that was required was to remove 3 screws to remove the broken part. I used a pair of pliers to remove the moisture sensors from the broken part to the new one. Read more

Replaced It With New One Read more

Watched You tube videos to narrow the problem down to old deteriorated gaskets. Read more

Bought a new lint screen housing and top flapper. Probably didn’t need the flapper but I didn’t want to set into the repair and find out I did need it. Read more

This was actually one of the easiest fixes I’ve done. All that was required was to remove 3 screws to remove the broken part. I used a pair of pliers to remove the moisture sensors from the broken part to the new one. Read more

First I watched videos about squeaking Kenmore dryers. Then I used that information to open the dryer, diagnosing the fact that the roller on the drum belt tension arm had broken and actually fallen off the arm. The dryer was filled with lint and dust/dirt, so I also saw that the seals on the dryer had deteriorated greatly. AppliancePartsPros website is outstanding, far better than its competitors. This made it easy to find the parts and videos that I needed. It took hours to pull everything... Read more

Replaced the roller, shaft, rings and washer. After removing the back, reverse threading the nut off, discarding the old hardware and installing the new hardware back in business in about 20 minutes. Read more

The 2 sensors that sit on top of the flame tube work together. The Thrmst F should check closed, as should the Cutoff-TML, in order for power to flow to the ignitor. If the Cutoff is open, it is usually because the Thrmst-F did not open soon enough. The Thermst-F will cycle, closed to open, and repeat, however the Cutoff-HTML is a one time switch. If it opens it will not return to closed, and subsequently the ignitor will not glow. Some professionals say that if one of these sensors fail, both... Read more

Removed and replaced start switch then motor, no joy. removed the timer for disassembly, found bad contact. soldered contact to the spring tab and assembled and installed the timer. All good now. Read more

Using You Tube How-To Videos. Replaced the drum drive belt and tensioner pulley/arm (including) the spring. Read more