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Customer Questions and Answers for Temperature Sensor (Thermistor Assembly) by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM13035993
Manufacturer Part Number: WR23X10582

This temperature sensor monitors internal refrigerator temperatures and relays them to the control, helping the unit maintain consistent cooling. Replacing a failed sensor restores accurate temperature regulation and more reliable operation. What it does:

  • Measures compartment or evaporator temperature and sends a resistance signal to the control board
  • Helps the control modulate compressor and fan run times for proper cooling
  • Typical failure signs: sections too warm or too cold, erratic temperatures, or running longer than normal
  • Causes inaccurate temperature readings compared to setpoints
What's included:
  • 1 temperature sensor assembly
Install notes:
  • Disconnect power before servicing
  • Access the sensor in the affected section; release any cover/clip and unplug the connector
  • Route the new sensor's wiring like the original and ensure it's fully seated in its holder or clip
  • Restore power and allow up to 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Temperature Sensor (Thermistor Assembly) (Part Number: OEM13035993)

Fredw for Model Number GFSL6KKYCLS

The bottom freezer is not freezing (38F) although the control panel shows it at -2F. There is ice buildup at the very top of the freezer back wall evaporate coil and where the freon line enters, not too much. both evaporate fans are running fine, defrost heater was tested at 54.8ohm, defrost thermostat was tested open at about 60F. The compressor and condenser fan all run ok. The condenser coil is clean, the fresh food section is cool at 38F, and the condenser is not hot to the touch. Shall I replace both temp sensors WR23X10582 and WR23X10580 in the freezer or add freon? The upper fresh food section cools down ok but there is water buildup at the bottom of the pull-out tray, is this due to sensor WR23X10582?

1 Answer

Fred, Thanks for the question!!! Two things I would suggest. First, for the water in the fridge section. This is likely caused by a clogged defrost drain in the fridge section. The freezer section is likely a sealed system issue but this can be verified by testing the freezer thermistors. Reading for the thermistors should be in a range like @ 0 F…………...42.5k Ohms, @32 F…………..16.3k Ohms, @37 F…………..14K Ohms. Check your tech sheet for more details.

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Craig for Model Number GFSS6KKYCSS

Ok, my S/Blue wire has no voltage on it, the red wire has 120 volts. what does this mean no pwr coming from S/Blue wire?? Thanks My compressor does not come on. How can I test to see if power is getting to the compressor? my compressor has 3 pins in total. 1 upper and two lower. the overload relay is on the upper and the start relay is connected to the lower 2 pins. How do I test the wires coming into these pins for pwr with a multimeter? Craig for Model Number GFSS6KKYCSS ANSWER Craig, Thanks for the Question!!! The voltage to the compressor would be tested at the S/Blue and Red wires: Here is a good video that will show how to check the relay and overload: https://youtu.be/OPVZeKvxjEI

1 Answer

Craig, Based on the model number provided you should read 120vac with the meter leads to the blue and red wires (one meter lead to each wire) and this should be done when the compressor should be on and running. When testing for power be careful not to touch the wires or let them touch the cabinet due to the chance of shortage or shock.

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1 Answer

Craig, Thanks for the Question!!! The voltage to the compressor would be tested at the S/Blue and Red wires: Here is a good video that will show how to check the relay and overload: https://youtu.be/OPVZeKvxjEI

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1 Answer

Craig, Thanks for the question!!! Yes, a bad sensor can cause the compressor to not run. For the details on the overload and relay check out this video, it will have more troubleshooting for your issue as well: https://youtu.be/OPVZeKvxjEI

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1 Answer

Craig, the Samsung defrost sensor would measure 5K Ohms at 77°F and 13.290K Ohms at 32°F.

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1 Answer

Craig, the resistances for both thermistors would read 13.2K Ohms at 32°F, 8.9K Ohms at 50°F, and 5K Ohms at 77°F.

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1 Answer

Garry, We will need to get the full model number of your refrigerator to be able to assist with your question properly. There may have been changes in design between the one you got and several others that come up.

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1 Answer

Mark, Thanks for the question!!! You would need to test your thermistor in the fridge to see if it is ok, see chart below. If the thermistor is good, it would most likely be the control board. @ 0 F…………...42.5k Ohms @32 F…………..16.3k Ohms @37 F…………..14K Ohms @41 F…………...12.7k Ohms @50 F…………...10k Ohms @77 F…………...5K Ohms

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1 Answer

Nick, It would be recommended to see if the temperature sensors are good by testing the resistance at the board. The room temperature resistance should be 5k ohms.

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1 Answer

Hello Nick, first access the ref evap coil and check if the defrost thermistor is still secure to the coil tubing, if not correct it as needed, it has to be making good contact with the tubing. If it is secure to the tubing, replace it with part WR23X10582 defrost thermistor. If the problem continues then replace the main control board. Your model does not use a defrost timer, defrost operation is through the main control board.

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