Larry July 02, 2014 for Model Number GE model GSS20IETAWW I bought a house with this refrigerator in it so I don't know the history of it. I do know it was new in 2007. When I plugged it in it appeared to be working fine. when I returned in a few days it was dead. That means no lights working, nothing. When I unplugged it and plugged it back in I had 1/2 second of power to the lights before it was dead again. I could hear a clicking noise in the defrost timer every time I unplugged it and plugged it back in. I replaced the defrost timer and the power stayed on and the frig appeared to be working. A few hours later I checked it and the walls inside the freezer around the top near the ice maker were hot. Not warm, hot. I could feel cold air coming out near the bottom inside the freezer but it wasn't enough to compete with the heat coming from the walls in the upper part of the freezer. I removed the appliance lights to rule out heat coming from them. It is not coming from the light bulbs. The compressor is running and so is the condenser fan, all are nice and clean. I'm not sure if the evaporator fan in the freezer was working, I will have to check that. I wondered if the defrost heater was stuck on or the defrost limiter was keeping the heater on but I think the heat would be felt lower in the freezer, not in the walls at the top. Now I'm wondering if it is the mother board. I don't see a defrost timer in the diagrams for this refrigerator so I'm wondering if the previous owner tried to fix a mother board problem by adding a defrost timer. I also see that the previous owner wrote down the ice maker information as if he did or was going to replace the ice maker. This is the area of the heat problem so maybe it is caused by the ice maker. Any help would be appreciated. The frig is too nice looking to trash it.
1 Answer Hello Larry. It sounds like the main control board WR55X10942C will need to be replaced on the unit. It does not sound like a defrost issue. Read More...
Robert H June 29, 2014 for Model Number gss20iembcc My freezer is -5 my fridge side is 60. I replaced bad defroster heater and the thermal switch. This unit is building up ice on the bottom and freezing solid over the drain hole. I removed the back cover and the coils are not frosted up and the fan does run fine. The freezer is holding - 5 set on 4 the fridge side stays at 50-60 no matter where I set the control. I am getting plenty of cold air blowing through the bottom meat pan air control. I can turn this off for 2 hours then plug back in and it will work fine for a day or two.
1 Answer Robert, You will want to check the damper in the refrigerator compartment to see if the damper is clogged with ice and make sure that it is opening and that air is coming through. The damper is in the upper left corner. If not then the issue would be caused by a faulty damper assembly and would cause back flow which would cause the drain to freeze. Read More...
Les June 27, 2014 for Model Number GSH22JFXLWW (General Electric) Not Cooling at all. Just plain died on me. Now, this refrigerator did pulled this same stunt about six months ago and came back and worked fine. I really wonder if this is a controls problem, rather than the sealed system. So I took some measurements and here is what I found so far. Compressor seems to be vibrating very "quietly", as though it is not getting enough umphhh. This Refrigerator apparently uses a compressor with a three-phase motor that is powered via an inverter (mounted on motor). And the inverter is signaled by the Main Board. The Compressor has three pins, all of which show resistance of about 6.2 ohms, pin to pin any combination. The Refrigerator fans and lights all seem to run fine. When on, my fluke multimeter measures about 100V on the top two pins of the compressor. No way in hell to get to the other two pins when assembled. The two "Power Input" pins on the inverter have 120 VAC, but the two pins for the control of the inverter (these two wires go to main board) have a pulsing voltage, roughly once per second, don't know what the hell that is all about. The inverter has a label that says it is 120V input single phase, 230 V output three phase, variable frequency. I am guessing it is telling the compressor to mess around at lowest speed or something like that. Pet theory, but even if correct, is it the main board, or something lieing to the main board? Ought to be a way to trouble shoot this, but alas, I am stuck. Any help?
1 Answer Les, With the compressor running, if the fans are also running but the unit not cooling at all you will want to check the frost pattern on the evaporator coils. If the coils have a frost pattern that is just barely there or on a couple of the coils then the issue would be a sealed system issue. If the coils have a nice even frost pattern from top to bottom then the issue is with air movement. If the coils are impacted with ice then you will want to test the defrost limiter and heater for continuity and check the resistance of the defrost sensor. If the heater or limiter do not have continuity then it is bad and would need to be replaced. If they check ok and the resistance of the sensor checks bad then replace the sensor and if all 3 check ok then the control board is faulty and would need to be replaced. Read More...
Ivor Lynch June 14, 2014 for Model Number GSS25VGMA WWW The refrigerator is acting like a freezer, Changed the temperature sensor in the back of the freezer, changed the window between the freezer and refrigerator, changed the control panel in the refrigerator...... which of the three sensors control the window that I mentioned above..
1 Answer Ivor, If you replaced the damper on the upper left rear of the refrigerator compartment then the issue would be the main control board. The damper comes with the sensor that operates it. If the damper door is broken then it will cause this issue or if the thermistor is faulty it will cause the issue. Read More...
John O June 03, 2014 for Model Number ZFSB25DTB SS My freezer side quits freezing to the point it melts all the ice in the ice compartment. And the temp indicator in the fridge side that you can control shows the air temp in freezer to be to warm to freeze anything . Do I need to replace the temp sensor or circuit panel?
1 Answer Hello John. It sounds like the sensor is reading good, and the control board will need to be replaced. Read More...
Sinclair May 28, 2014 for Model Number nss25gftaww The freezer fan in my refrigerator will not run. What can stop this fan from working?
1 Answer Hello Sinclair. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/4220-ge-refrigerators-gs-ps-models-evaporator-fan-motor-test-replacement.html Read More...
Manny May 07, 2014 for Model Number GE model # PSS26MSW My freezer side is always frosting, regardless of temperature setting. I had cleaned the coils and after 2 weeks the same problem. Is it the Temperature Sensor or the Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly the problem? Also, I only see 1 temperature sensor on the freezer side, where are the other ones? Thanks.
1 Answer Manny, You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Kris Z May 05, 2014 for Model Number PSS26LSRE SS I have replaced my defrost heater and defrost thermostat as they were both bad. However, I am continuing to have occasional defrost cycles where the freezer does not seem to fully exit defrost mode. The condenser seems to turn on, but the evaporator fan does not turn on, so the upper part of the freezer remains about 35 - 40 degrees, leaving the ice to slowly melt. It seems to stay this way for hours, until I unplug and plug it back in. Once it is reset, it functions fine, the fan turns on and the freezer quickly cools to single digit temperatures, and often even seems to go through a defrost cycle or two properly. I replaced the mainboard a few days ago, but I am still the same problem. I also *tried* to replace the evaporator thermistor. However, when I went to replace it, I discovered the old one wasn't attached to anything, the wires were simply dangling, and I don't see any wires that it could attach to. The old thermistor seems to be perfectly fine, according to my ohmeter, but I don't see anything to wire it to. Is it possible that my freeze/evaporator just doesn't use a thermistor? Is there anything else I can try/replace?
1 Answer Kris, Your refrigerator does use the thermistor and should have wires that go back to where the fan motor would connect. The pins go into 2 openings of the gang plug that the evaporator fan motor goes to and plugs into the rear freezer wall. If the fan was ever replaced this may be the cause for the issue if the wrong fan was installed or if they installed the correct fan but did not reconnect the wires then this would be the issue. The fan motor that you would need that has the thermistor with it is part number WR60X10074. Read More...
Sandra M May 04, 2014 for Model Number GSS22KGPC BB The refrigerator temp control and freezer temp control have not working have no light wont come on cant't set
1 Answer Sandra, With no lights on the display the issue will either be caused by a faulty display control board or a faulty main control board. You will want to check the main control board to see if power is being sent to the display board. There should be 12 vdc going to the display board. Read More...
Kim April 10, 2014 for Model Number pss26lsrfss My freezer was icing up and causing my ice cubes to melt and causing the crisper to freeze, so I replaced the heater in freezer and the temperature sensor in freezer and the defrost limiter in the freezer and after I thaw the freezer out it works for about a week and starts doing the same thing. Any suggestions.
1 Answer Hello Kim. It sounds like you will need to replace the main control board WR55X10942C on the unit. Read More...