Brian August 20, 2019 for Model Number GDL22KCWASS I recently had to manually defrost my condenser in my bottom freezer. A layer of ice had built up blocking air from reaching the refrigerator. Ever since, the refrigerator seems to be constantly running. I suspect the thermal sensors have gone haywire, but I'm not sure how or which one. My J1 plug on the circuit board has white wires on pins 1, 3 and 4. Brown wires on 5 and 9. Assuming the common wire is in pin 5, I'm getting readings at pin 1 of 7.4k ohms , pin 3 at 10k ohms and pin 4 at 4.2k ohms. Fridge temp is 35 and freezer at -10. What are the chances both sensors went bad?
1 Answer Brian, pin 4 is for the evaporator thermistor, pin 3 is for the freezer thermistor, and pin 1 is the refrigerator thermistor. Based on the resistance readings they have all failed as the RF sensor is registering 59°, the FZ thermistor is registering 50°, and the evap sensor is registering 83°. You will want to verify the temperature of the cabins with a thermometer to ensure that there is not a control issue. The sensors are all part number WR55X10025. Read More...
Diane August 07, 2019 for Model Number GSH22JFTEBB How many temp sensors are in my side by side? The freezer is not staying cold and the refrigerator is too cold where it's freezing food and it quit making ice. Any idea's as to where to start? Thank you
1 Answer Diane, there are 3 thermistors WR55X10025 in your model. The first place to start would be to test the refrigerator thermistor for its temperature to resistance reading. If the actual temperature of the cabin does not match the resistance that the thermistor should be at, the thermistor has failed and is causing the unit to operate the evaporator fan at higher speeds to meet the temperature it senses. If the thermistor checks good, then the main control WR55X10942C would be the most likely cause for this issue. The resistance readings for the thermistor will be sent to you separately. Read More...
Mavis July 08, 2019 for Model Number PSHW6YGXCDSS 12-year-old GE Profile side-by-side working great on the freezer side, fridge side fluctuating between 39-50 degrees even though it is set to 35. Usually, about 48, even if it's during the night when people are asleep. LCD display temp on the panel accurately shows 0 for the freezer but display temp for the fridge shows 35 even though the fridge is 10+ degrees hotter. Repairman determined the fan is running and the compressor is running. He then removed the temp sensor from the inside of the fridge and when he realized he didn't have that part on his truck he put the old sensor back in. Oddly enough it started working again and has worked perfectly for 5 days. The LCD temp agrees with (is close to) the temp monitoring device I still have in the fridge and they both show that it stays within the normal range. The food is colder now in the fridge. Should we be replacing the temp sensor anyway (since the repairman didn't) or wait for this one to have a problem? One other thing noted by the repairman was that the drain pan under the fridge was bone dry and has been that way for some time so GE said to replace the compressor, but honestly, everything looks perfectly normal now that temp sensor was reconnected.
1 Answer Mavis, as the temperature sensor is a resistance based part, it is unlikely that it is bad as it would not have a way to reset itself into having the proper resistance. The thermistor can be tested for resistance at the main control and compared to a resistance chart for correct readings. This will allow the identification of whether the issue is with the sensor or the main control. However, if the compressor is running for a very long time to keep the unit at the proper temperatures, then it is likely that there is a compressor issue. Read More...
Mavis July 08, 2019 12 year old GE profile side-by-side model PSHWy6XCDSS working great on freezer side, fridge side fluctuating between 39-50 degrees even though it is set to 35. LCD display temp on the panel accurately shows 0 for the freezer but display temp for fridge shows 35 even though the fridge is 10+ degrees hotter. Repairman determine the fan is running and the compressor is running. He then removed the temp sensor from the inside of the fridge and when he realized he didn't have that part on his truck he put the old sensor back in. Oddly enough it started working again and has worked perfectly for 5 days. The LCD temp agrees with (is close to) the temp monitoring device I still have in the fridge and they both show that it stays within the normal range. Food is colder now in the fridge. Should we be replacing the temp sensor anyway (since the repairman didn't) or wait for this one to have a problem? One other thing noted by repairman was that drain pan under the fridge was bone dry and has been that way for some time so GE said replace the compressor, but honestly everything looks perfectly normal now that temp sensor was reconnected.
1 Answer Hello Mavis, from your description it does sound like the temp sensor is the problem, however the model number you provided does not show as a valid model number. If you would recheck the model number and repost your question we will be able to find the part. Read More...
Brian June 25, 2019 for Model Number GFE29HGDCBB Hello. The temperature in my refrigerator was 57 degrees this morning. That's when I noticed the evaporator fan in the freezer wasn't running. I unplugged the refrigerator to check the fan to see if it was possibly stuck. It wasn't. Plugged the refrigerator back in and the fan started running. Hmm. Assuming the evaporator fan in the freezer not running was the cause of the warm temp in the refrigerator, I let the refrigerator run all day while I was at work hoping it was fixed. Came home and the temperature in the refrigerator had climbed to 59 degrees. I see my refrigerator has multiple temp sensors all with the same part number. Numbers 508, 511, 719, 945 & 955 on the parts breakdown. Can you tell me what each of these sensors does? Do you think I have a sensor problem or a defrost problem? The freezer temp is fine at 0 degrees. Thanks.
1 Answer Brian All of the temperature sensors WR55X10025 will send a resistance reading back to the control board according to what the temperature in the refrigerator compartment, freezer compartment, etc would be. If you were to test these sensors the resistance at room temperature of 77 degrees, the resistance should read about 5K ohms. With the fan coming on after unplugging the unit and replugging it up, it would most likely be a control board WR55X46805 that is faulty rather than any other part. Read More...
Jason May 30, 2019 for Model Number PFSS5NFWASS Over freezing in freezer section causing ice to build up and hitting the fan. Defrost heater checked good, Would this be a failed sensor or control board?
1 Answer Jason, the defrost heater should have a resistance of 31.2 ohms. If the heater has the proper resistance, then the next thing to check would be the defrost thermostat WR50X10069 The defrost thermostat should read continuity when it has reached 15 degrees Fahrenheit or if the ice is built up. If it does not read continuity, then it has failed. If those check good then you may want to test the evaporator thermistor at the main control. With the power turned off, you will want to go to connection J1 of the main control WR55X10956 and test from pin 4 to pin 5 for resistance. The resistance would need to be compared to actual temperature. If the thermistor checks good then the main control WR55X10956 would be the most likely issue. Further information will be sent to assist with testing. Read More...
Randy April 01, 2019 for Model Number whirlpool WRT314TFDBOO freezer wont get below 22F bottom keeps food cold twice today heard clicking from what I think is defrost control board in fresh food section.
1 Answer Randy, I think the clicking noise you are hearing is the start relay on the compressor. I would recommend replacing the the relay, part number WPW10448874. The lack of proper temperature would account for the compressor not running enough. The start relay is what starts the compressor. Read More...
Mickey P March 21, 2019 for Model Number GTS22JCPBRWW I recently purchased a temperature sensor, part # AP3185407, for my GE Refrigerator/Freezer. I can not locate it. I have a freezer over refrigerator appliance. The video is made with a side x side unit. GE model GTS22JCPBRWW. Can you help locate this part on my particular model?
1 Answer Mickey, According to the tech sheet on this unit here would not be a temperature sensor in this unit. If there was one it would be on the evaporator and would be for the defrost cycle. If you are having an issue with the defrost there are 2 defrost thermostats that would need to be tested for continuity as well as testing the defrost heater. If these check ok then the timer would be the issue. Read More...
Andrea February 19, 2019 for Model Number HSS25GFTG BB We have a HotPoint (GE) side by side that quit working after a storm and due to a surge most likely. We have replaced the main control board and both refrigerator and freezer thermistors. It started working after the main control board was replaced, however the refrigerator started freezing food. This is when we purchased the new thermistors. HOWEVER, food is still freezing! Could it be the front temperature control panel??
1 Answer Andrea, the sensors are controlled directly by the main control board in the back, being you have replaced the FF sensor and it is still freezing in the refrigerator, I would recommend replacing the control, part number is {AP6048447] Read More...
Gary February 17, 2019 for Model Number GSS25WGTGWW My side-by-side was working perfectly except for a frozen water dispenser. After unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to thaw overnight, I plugged it back in and the set temperatures are correct (0 and 37) but the actual temp doesn't seem to work. It started out displaying 0, 69, and never changed, even though the temperature dropped as expected. I unplugged it and, after a few minutes plugged it back in and the display temp is 0, 43, and, again, didn't change, even though the actual temp was measured at -5 and 34. I did have the display panel and dispenser housing out for a bit while it was initially thawing to clean the dispenser area. I reset the power one more time and got a temperature of 0 and 39 versus an actual temp of -5 and 34.
1 Answer Gary, You will want to test the thermistors on the unit to make sure that they are good. If the unit is set for -5 in the freezer compartment then the resistance should be 48.4K ohms. Set at 39 in refrigerator should read approximately 12.7K ohms. Read More...