Cindy June 08, 2020 for Model Number ZFSB23DRDSS The freezer is fine but the refrigerator is not cooling. There is a block of ice on the cover of the evaporator unit. How many thermistors are there in the refrigerator and where are they? What part do I need? How do I know if the main control board is bad? I unplugged the refrigerator and the ice has melted and the temperature is now 34 degrees. I know it's temporary until the ice builds up again.
1 Answer Cindy, there is an evaporator thermistor WR55X10025 (located near the evaporator) and a refrigerator section thermistor WR55X10025 (located on the right side of the refrigerator behind a slatted cover). The thermistors would need to be tested from the main control to identify which component has failed. With the refrigerator unplugged and a thermometer in the refrigerator section, the evaporator thermistor would be tested at the connection J1 from the blue/red wire at pin 1 to the blue wire at pin 5 for resistance. The measurement should read more than 21KO with a proper frost pattern on the evaporator. The refrigerator section thermistor would be tested from the blue wire at pin 5 to the yellow wire at pin 2. The measurement should read 16.3KO at 32°F, 12.7KO at 41°F, and 10KO at 50°F. If the thermistors test properly, then it is likely that the main control WR49X10152 is not allowing the refrigerator to defrost as necessary. Read More...
Elizabeth May 04, 2020 for Model Number GFE29HSDISS the refrigerator is fine, however the freezer temp wont go below 22 degrees, I have reset freezer to zero, cleaned door gasket and swept and cleaned the coils, please advise thanks
1 Answer Elizabeth, it is recommended that the evaporator is inspected for a frost pattern. If the frost has built up to where it restricts air flow, the defrost heater WR51X10131 will need to be tested for 32O of resistance and the defrost thermostat WR50X10108 would need to be tested for continuity (should measure as having continuity). If these parts test good, the evaporator sensor WR55X10025 would need to be tested and should measure 21KO at 23°F, 27.6KO at 14°F, 36.4KO at 5°F. However, if there is not a frost pattern, there may be a sealed system issue that would require an EPA certified individual to test the system. Read More...
David April 13, 2020 for Model Number DFE29JGDCBB Help...my freezer is keeping temp but my fridge is running near 60...I have replaced the defrost switch because the coils kept freezing and that was fixed but the fridge still is not cooling...any suggestions would help to solve this problem...repairman are scarce due to the covid pandemic...thank you for our help
1 Answer Hello David. Check if the fresh food evaporator fan p/n AP6783211 is blowing. Then the temperature sensor (thermistor) p/n AP3185407 most likely is the culprit one. Read More...
Mike K March 28, 2020 for Model Number GSS23QSTASS Hello, Having problem with freezer too cold and refrigerator runs too long. Is it possible to replace the temperature sensors in the Fresh Food (FF) side? Is there a video? I'm thinking those FF sensors may be the problem since the defrost heater, defrost thermostat, and freezer temp sensor and evaporator motor were recently replaced. That fixed the problem with ice buildup on evaporator coil. The main control board was also replaced about 4 years ago. Also wondering if damper control assembly in FF side is not working.
1 Answer Mike, You can test the thermistor for a resistance reading. The freezer at 0 degrees should read 62k ohms and the refrigerator side should read 24k ohms at 38 degrees. It is possible that the damper not allowing cool air into refrigerator and the thermistor calling for cooling in the refrigerator zone is the reason for long run times.Feel in the upper rear of the refrigerator and see if you feel air blowing. WR49X10091 is the damper assembly. Read More...
Rod March 09, 2020 for Model Number PSS26MSTDSS Ice once made seem to melt together. Temp says 0 or -1 most of the time and may 5-6 every once in a while. I figure it because the door get opened from time to time. I have test Ice tray for leaks and sometime I see drips from Ice container itself. The door seal is good and the Ice door seals as well. Could it be that the freezer is too warm from time to time? When I take the Ice bucket and make out I don't seem to have the problem with any drips of moisture. I just put a bag of store bought ice in the Ice Bucket for a party and the next day it was a stuck together as well. This does not happen in our other freezer in the garage. Thoughts or ideas?
1 Answer Rod, Based on the description, it would sound likely that the unit is staying in the defrost cycle for too long and causing the freezer to warm up enough to melt the ice and then refreeze. This would normally be caused by an issue with the thermistor WR55X10025 located on the evaporator coil that is faulty or a control board not reading the thermistor correctly and needing to be replaced. The thermistor can be tested for resistance should be around 42.2K ohms at 0 degrees. If the thermistor does not read properly then it is faulty. If it checks ok then the control board will be the issue. Read More...
Steve December 20, 2019 for Model Number Gfe28gskfss Is there anyway I can speak to about ge ref. Only thing the lights where flickering replaced main and dispenser board now compressor condenser motor came on. Still no lights on despensor. Fresh food compartment not cold at all. Freezer down to -07. Lights still flicker. One bulb is out. Have spent a few hundred dollars If you can help. Plz let me know.
1 Answer Hello Steve, with the boards replaced already and those symptoms, it sounds like there may be a problem with the wiring/terminals connections at the top left fresh food door hinge wiring connections. Read More...
Dale November 05, 2019 for Model Number DSS25PFMDWW Fridge side was running around 50 and freezer side right at 0,,pulled panel off of evaporator and was just almost froze up solid,, checked defrost heater and got 22 oms ,,,ran 12 hour test and all works good,, can regulate temps on both sides with no problem,just not sure its defrosting,,,what other parts can be tested?
1 Answer Dale, Since the defrost heater resistance is in range (18-20 O's) check for loose connections and make sure the seals on the end of the glass tube(s) haven't shifted or come off the ends. The freezer thermistors/temp. sensors WR55X10025 should have a reading of the 10K O's at room temp. (77 dgrs.F) and 62-63K O's at 0 dgrs. F. The defrost thermostat/hi-limit should have a "closed" circuit below 140 dgrs. F. If the wiring and components check OK and proper, then the main control board WR55X10942C on the back of the refrigerator would have a fault in the circuitry and need to be replaced. Read More...
Gabriel October 05, 2019 for Model Number GSS25KGTABB My refrigerator is not cooling so I replaced the heater, the sensor, thermostat, and the main control board and it's still not defrosting, what could it be?
1 Answer Gabriel, Double-check all connections of the heater thermostat and the thermistor. Make sure that there are no loose connections. Also, check at the mainboard to make sure that the sensor is reading properly. It sounds likely that you may have received a bad board if all else checks ok. Read More...
Alix October 01, 2019 for Model Number pss26pswass where is the temperature sensor located in my refrigerator.. Apprecieate. thank u.
1 Answer Alix, Based on the model number provided your refrigerator it has as many as 6 sensors (thermistors) in it, they are thermistors for the fresh food section, fresh food evaporator, the freezer section, freezer evaporator, defrost thermistor and custom cool thermistor if it has custom cool feature. These all can be tested from the main control board for resistance. Read More...
Brian August 25, 2019 for Model Number GDL22KCWASS After replacing the fridge temperature sensor (verified as working first), I am still getting an abnormal reading at the J1 plug (7.5k ohms at 36F....when plugged into the control board. I verified that once I unplug from J1, the sensor readings are reading as expected. Does this indicate a bad control board? Is there any way to test the board itself (i.e. am I supposed to get certain readings from the J1 pins themselves)? Thanks.
1 Answer Brian. You should check the thermistors unplugged from the board so as not to get false readings by reading through the board as well. The board is reading those resistances and should be controlling the temp based on those readings. if the thermistors check good then it does sound like you have a board issue. Read More...