Dan December 22, 2014 for Model Number 362.75585892 When turning on the oven, niether Broiler or Oven work...replaced the ignitors recently and igniters don't seem to be glowing either.
1 Answer Hello Dan. It sounds like the control board WB27K10142 will need to be replaced if the igniters are new. Read More...
Carlton April 09, 2014 for Model Number 36275321002 Oven burner lights but everything seems to take along time to cook.
1 Answer Hello Carlton. It sounds like the igniter may be weak and need to be replaced on the unit. Read More...
Barbara January 23, 2014 for Model Number jgbp30cea3cc My oven isn't getting up to temperature. It takes about 30 minutes for the up to templight to come on but its taking longer to bake. That's been going on for awhile and now it doesn't seem to get hot at all.We have replace the oven igniter before and I think this is the problem now. Because this oven has true temp and 2 different burners in the oven does it take 2 igniters? Also the burners on the cook top are just clicking and not lighting. I have cleaned them and the clicking sounds weak and doesn't light the burner. I can light it with a lighter. What part would I need to fix this?
1 Answer Barbara, If both the bake and broil on your unit is not coming on then most likely the issue will be caused by a faulty oven safety valve rather than both of the igniters going at the same time. For the stovetop it sounds like the spark module may be the issue causing the weak spark since it is all of the burners not igniting. Read More...
Morelloj July 30, 2013 for Model Number GE Spectra Xl44 Hello, I'm having an issue with our oven. When you turn the oven on to preheat, the lower burner doesn't come on... I replaced the igniter, but still no flame. The broiler works great, it's the bake burner that's having the problem.
1 Answer Hello Morello. If the igniter is glowing, but no gas coming out and the igniter is new, you need to replace the gas valve on the unit. Read More...
Rick July 21, 2013 for Model Number 362.75575691 Our oven is having gas sputtering issues. The igniter is glowing just fine and stays glowing when the oven is lit. As the oven warms up, the gas begins to sputter. I have tried cleaning the orifice and burner tube but the problem still exists. My hunch is the oven safety valve needs to be replaced, but the broiler works just fine, so I am not sure if this is the issue or not. It looks like part #WB19K36 is the replacement part, but I am hesitant to replace this costly valve if it is not the issue. I'd prefer to spend the money towards a new stove. Can you confirm if this is what is causing the "sputtering"?
1 Answer Hello Rick. If the unit is sputtering, you will need to replace the valve on the unit. Read More...
Mark December 26, 2012 for Model Number JGBP35CEA5CC I have a GE gas oven with a WB19K36 valve. The broiler works fine. The oven flame is weak and pulses a bit. I can hear the valve pulsing. I have seen a normal flame, then it throttled back, which seems to indicate the orifice is okay. While I might suspect the valve, other answers have said that if the broiler is working, it is not the valve. The igniter seems okay, and seems to be always on while the oven is on, which might or might not be normal.
1 Answer Hello Mark. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the control valve WB19K36 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. It is normal for the igniter to stay on in the oven while the oven is turned on. Read More...
Mark December 23, 2012 for Model Number 362.75321002 The OEM Oven control valve PART NUMBER: WB19K0036 has been superseded to Part Number WB19K36. However the new valve only has 2 electrical terminals, the OEM valve has 4. How do I connect the electrical? The part picture is not perfectly clear but that is the way the diagram and the picture look.
1 Answer Hello Mark, the valve WB19K36 should have four terminals, two on each side. If you look real close, you can see that in the picture. It is the correct safety valve for your model. Thanks! Read More...
Jeff November 14, 2012 for Model Number ge xl44 oven I noticed the smell of gas coming from my GE xl44 oven. The gas company came out to confirm that it is an internal leak. Would this be the valve inside not closing, or an electric issue not telling the valve to close? I think i need part #AP2633268. Is there a diagram on how to replace this? I cant figure out how to access this. Thnaks
1 Answer Jeff, It is possible for the safety control valve WB19K36 to "stick" open, but thats a bit rare. Apparently the technician could not pin point the issue for you ? A couple of questions first, does the gas odor occur all the time, or only when the oven is in use ? if the answer is when the oven is in use, then you most likely have a weak igniter, causing the valve to open and close erratically. If the odor is constant and always there, then go with the safety valve. Read More...
J.M.F. October 22, 2012 for Model Number rgb746hed2ct My oven doesn't get enough gas to the burner. Very little, some times no gas at all to light the burner. The igniter glows. The top burner works well. That is the broiler.
1 Answer Hello J.M., If the broiler burner works, the safety valve is operational so the only thing that can cause this is the ignitor WB13K21, the burner WB16K10035, or the bake orifice is blocked. If the bake orifice is blocked, it can be cleared by removing it and running a safety pin through the hole, as long as you are careful not to enlarge the original size of the hole. Read More...
Timm August 20, 2012 for Model Number JGBP90MEB6BC NEITHER THE OVEN OR BROILER WILL IGNITE. I CHANGED THE BAKE IGNITOR, BUT THAT DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. I HAVE WORKED ON THIS GAS RANGE BEFORE AND HAD ORDERED A CONTROL VALVE BEFORE. AT THAT TIME IT TURNED OUT TO BE THE IGNITOR. I INSTALLED THE EXTRA CONTROL VALVE THIS TIME, BUT IT DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. DO YOU KNOW WHAT THE READINGS SHOULD BE WITH MY OHM METER ON THAT CONTROL. THANKS
1 Answer Timm, With your multimeter set on the lowest ohms resistance scale, you should read a "closed"( infinite resistance) across the two terminal on each of the valves. You can also check for the voltage from the igniter(s) and verify if they are producing the proper circuit. There should be 3.2 to 3.6 VAC across the two terminals of each gas valve when the igniter is glowing. Read More...