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Customer Questions and Answers for Electronic Control (Console Control Board) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18048318
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10166969

This electronic control board manages the appliance's cycle selection, timing and user interface so the unit runs the programmed functions reliably. It replaces a failed control to restore responsive buttons, accurate cycles and display feedback. What it does:

  • Regulates cycle selection, timing and start/stop commands for normal operation
  • Communicates with sensors and components to control heating, motor and valve functions
  • Replaces a faulty control that causes blank display, unresponsive controls or incorrect cycle behavior
  • Helps correct intermittent power or error-code conditions tied to a failed control board
What's included: One electronic control board Install notes:
  • Disconnect power to the appliance before any service to avoid shock or damage
  • Handle the board by its edges and avoid touching circuitry; use anti-static precautions if available
  • Verify wiring harness connections match the replacement before securing the new board

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Electronic Control (Console Control Board) (Part Number: OEM18048318)

1 Answer

Ran, If the igniter is not shutting off then this will be a faulty control board for the unit.

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1 Answer

Thomas, No, at this point the control doesn't seem to be the issue. At this point as with most gas ranges, you'll need to check or replace the oven burner igniter W11596211. It is probably weak and malfunctioning. The burner igniter can come on, and glow orange, and appear to be working. But the igniter has to glow "white" hot to open the gas safety valve. If you can access a clamp on ammeter, when you turn the oven on, and the glow bar is glowing, it has to draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps in order to open the valve. Anything lower or intermittent will not allow the oven to ignite and heat consistently.

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Ron J

The bottom oven of my Maytag mgr6775bds gas range quit working after my wife said she heard a pop. I have replaced the igniter since that appeared to be the problem. The old igniter had a break in one of the electric lines like it had a short, The oven still won't come on and the igniter doesn't glow. Are there any fuses etc. ? I read earlier Q/A and plan to test with multimeter. Would the control board have problems with only the lower oven and still function fine for everything else?

1 Answer

Hello Ron, With the bake on have the ignitor disconnected at the connector. Check the wiring on the connector to see if you have 120vac. If there is not 120vac present then you will need to check the wiring back up to the control board for damage. If there is no damage to wiring then you will need to replace the control board WPW10166969. If there is voltage present then the ignitor would be bad.

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1 Answer

Hi Wayne. Tend to lean with a bad gas valve also. Just wanted you to check the igniter to see if it had a hairline crack /shipment. Is the gas valve ohmming out @ closed= .01 ohms or so? Coil resistence should be 0-ohms. Are you referring to 3.3 vac (ac volts?), or amps? You should get 3.2-3.6 amps at the gas valve, if not replace the igniter. Are you getting 120vac to the igniter terminals ? Thank you.

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1 Answer

Hello Pam. For the cancel problem, you will need to replace the control board WPW10166969. As for the gas, you will need to test at the gas safety valve and see if there is 3.2-3.4 volts AC there with the igniter turned on. If not, you will need to replace the igniter W11596211. If the proper voltage is there, you will need to replace the gas valve WP74011290. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps.http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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