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Customer Questions and Answers for Control Board by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18039438
Manufacturer Part Number: WP8546219

Electronic control assembly.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Control Board (Part Number: OEM18039438)

1 Answer

Hello Tom. Check and make sure the heater is not grounded. If not, then you will need to order and replace the control board on the unit.

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Michael for Model Number 110.84836201

My dryer will not start intermittently. When you select a cycle and hold the start button it clicks and the drum moves about an inch. However, sometimes it will start and run normally for 10min or so and then stop. And other times the motor will continue to run even when the stop/cancel button is pushed (if you open the door it will stop but when the door is closed again it will start back up even with the dryer off and no lights on the control panel. Any ideas?

1 Answer

Hello James. We promise to ship your part on time. Order any part with the availability of "In Stock" before 4pm Eastern Time (1pm Pacific Time) and we'll ship it out on the same day it was ordered (business days only, orders received on a Saturday, Sunday, or a national holiday will ship on the following business day). If we fail to ship your in-stock part out on time, call us for a coupon, good for one year, worth 20% off your next order.

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Jodi for Model Number GEW9260PW0

When I hit "start", I hear the normal "click" and the timer starts counting down, but the motor never starts. I ran the diagnostics test and got no errors. I checked the thermal fuse, and it has continuity. The thermal cut-off also shows continuity. I accessed the machine control electronics and removed the main harness plug but left the others still connected. When I checked the resistance across P1-3 and P1-4, I got "OP" for open. My tech sheet says to replace the machine control electronics if the resistance reads 1-6 ohms. Does that mean that if my meter reads OP this board is good? I haven't checked the belt switch or the motor yet since they are harder to get to.

1 Answer

Jodi, If you are getting an open reading then the machine electronic control is good. You will want to check the belt switch and check continuity of the door switch with door closed to make sure that it is good.

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Rob for Model Number GEW9250PW1

I have a whirlpool Duet dryer that is about 6 yrs old. I had the thermal fuse blow and I replaced it. I now see that the temp control is stuck open (keeps requesting heat) even if on "AIR ONLY CYCLE." I check the circuit and noticed that one of the wire leads attached to the control panel must have become real hot. The plastic connector melted a bit. Based upon my diagnostics (as limited as they are) it sounds like a control board. How can I be sure?

1 Answer

Rob, If the unit is calling for heat even on the air only cycle then it sounds like the heater relay on the control board is stuck. If you look at the heater relay there is a black and red wire coming off of it. If this is where the melting took place then the relay is bad and control board needs to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Mike, You will want to check to make sure that the door switch is showing continuity when door is closed. You will want to check the exhaust thermal fuse for being blown. It should have continuity and if not it will need to be replaced. If thermal is blown you will also want to check your venting to make sure that the vent is clear from the blower wheel all the way to the outside of home. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello Brian. If the control board has a burnt spot on it, you will need to order and replace the control board on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Larry, You will want to check the coils on the gas valve. Based on information this appears to be what would be wrong with unit.

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Mike for Model Number GGW9250PWD

My Whirlpool GGW9250PWD is stuck in sensing mode. I ran all the diags and also tested the thermal cut-off, High Limit Therm, Thermal Fuse, and Thermistor. I then pulled the control board and noticed that the block marked, "Motor" had one point that was burnt. I think I need a new control board, but I also wanted to ask if something else would cause this to happen? Do I need to test the motor or is this a common issue that is just resolved with a new board?

1 Answer

Hello Mike, You will want to check the resistance of the motor windings to make sure that the motor has not shorted or opened. There may have been a loose connection that would have caused but checking the motor would eliminate motor as a problem.

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