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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18028050
Manufacturer Part Number: WP4391960

Dryer not heating or drying clothes? A failed heating element is the most common cause. This part generates heat to dry your laundry effectively.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part Number: OEM18028050)

1 Answer

Hello Mary, The screw that retains the element in the element housing is in the center bottom of the housing. In most cases, the element housing has to be moved a bit for the element to have room to get out. To do this, use a putty knife to release the main top and raise it. Looking near the top, you will see a single screw holding the bracket in place. When removed, it will allow you to slip the housing around a bit so the element can be removed from the housing.

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1 Answer

Hello Janine, You will need to raise the main top and remove the single screw connecting the bracket to the heater box so it can be pulled up far enough to pull the heating element down and out of the heater box from the rear.

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1 Answer

Hello SYD. You remove the 1/4" screw by the terminal block on the element and slide the element out of the bottom of the heater housing. You will need to remove the housing from the dryer to do this repair. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Reggie, On older electric dryers the heater box is open at the bottom. To remove the heat element Remove one retaining screw at the bottom of the heater box. pull the element out through the bottom of the heater box. Of course you want to make sure you remove power to the dryer before you start anything, and be careful, there are quite a few sharp edges in this area.

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1 Answer

Hello Rsorell. Check all the thermostats and the cycling thermostat. venting is not kinked or clogged. If all is good, and it could be a faulty motor in the unit.

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Alicia for Model Number LE7800XSW3

Hi - My dryer has been slow to dry--most jeans, heavy towels, etc. require two cycles at the highest heat and longest dry times regardless of the size of the load. Can I tell by looking at the heating element if it has partially burned out? How would I tell if it is a problem with the thermostat instead? Also, there is a tone that is supposed to notify you if you need to clean the lint trap. After vacuuming out this area we have heard the tone at random, even when there is no lint to be removed. Thank you!!! Alicia

1 Answer

Hello Alicia. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.

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1 Answer

Jeff, For testing the thermal fuse and heater you would put your meter on ohms reading if it is a digital meter and Rx1 if analog or if your meter has Rx1 scale.

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Jen for Model Number LE7680XMW0

This is long and involved.so I apologize in advance.Pulled out the dryer to clean vent. Probably broke a leveling foot (and then the roller went bad?) because shortly after I put it back the dryer was making a thumping noise (rhythmic). Father and husband said it was okay to keep running it (I know better than to listen to them NOW). Eventually, the noise stopped being rhythmic and became random and loud. Then the seal came off and tangled in the clothes (and began screeching that lovely metal on metal sound). Okay so I needed to replace the rear drum seal. And rollers. Which also meant axle shafts.Took it apart, decided the belt and idler pulley also needed replacing. Ordered all the parts, they arrived, went to swap them out and realized the washers for the axle shafts were chewed up as well. Waited another week to get those (bc hardware stores don't have the same ones). I finally got it all back together (including a new leveling foot) last night, it hummed beautifully. There was a burning smell at first but that went away, assumed it was just the glue from the seal? Pushed it back against the wall and dried a load of towels. Today, I went to put a load of laundry into the wash and water began seeping everywhere. I turned off the water to the washer, pulled out the dryer and realized that the plastic hose from the washer had a hole melted into it. The wall stud had a charred mark. Obviously the dryer was pushed in too far (not a 4 inch clearance from those pieces bc I'm an idiot). But my question (FINALLLY!) is can it be more than that? Can my heating element also be way too hot now? Did I screw up something while replacing all those parts or can it really just be that the back of the dryer cant be touching the things it's been touching for the last ten years? When the dryer runs and I open the door I can see the red hot heating element immediately cool down thru the holes but I don't remember if it did that before? I never noticed the element being red like that, anyway. So help? Is this a clearance issue or is something else wrong?

1 Answer

Jen, You will want to have at least a 4" clearance between the back of the unit and the wall. This issue does sound like the issue was caused by it being pushed all the way against the wall. With the unit pushed all the way against the wall it can cause the unit to get hotter than normal if the venting is being restricted.

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