Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

Bob, the element coil is made from nichrome. Thanks.

Hello Tammy. For the element in question here, you remove the screw and pull the element out of the housing.

Fitz, The unit not spinning would not have anything to do with the heating element. You will want to access the motor and test the motor for 120 vac when the dryer is turned on. If there is not 120 vac then you will need to trace back to the timer to find where you are loosing power. If there is 120 vac then the motor is faulty and would need to be replaced.

Jeff, To replace the heating element. Pull unit out and unplug. Remove the rear cover on the dryer. The heating element will be on the right side when looking from the back. The duct will have 2 screws at the bottom to remove. Remove the screws and the element. Install in reverse.

Gil, To remove the heater from the heater box, the heater box will have to be removed. The Drum will have to come out in order to accomplish this. Once the heater box is out there is a screw that holds the heater in the box. Remove screw and take out of the heater box and install new heater.

Wet clothes, The lead adapter is for model that the terminals do not connect properly to the heating element.

Tracy, It sounds like it may be the timer that may have failed. For the heater circuit you will want to start at the heater and check for voltage. Check between terminals BK and R with unit in heat cycle for 240 vac. If there is 240 vac but the heater is not working then the heater is bad and needs to be replaced. If there is not 240 vac then go from each terminal to chassis ground and check for 120 vac on each side. This will tell you which side you are loosing voltage. If the voltage is the side which goes to the terminal block then you will want to check for voltage at the motor switch 2M to chassis ground for 120 vac. If there is power at this point then the motor switch is bad and needs to be replaced. If there is no power then you have a bad terminal block. If there is power to the L2 side of the heater but not coming back from timer then you will need to do a continuity test on the thermostats and thermal fuses. If any do not have continuity then they are bad and need to be replaced. If they check ok then you will want to test from BK to R on the timer for 240 vac. If there is 240 vac then the timer is bad and will need to be replaced. On the unit not shutting off, you will first want to see if there are any wires that are damaged and shorting to ground. This would most likely be the blue wire coming off timer to the motor. If the unit does not shut off when the door is open then you would want to check the door switch for opening when the door is open. This can be tested by checking White to violet on the door switch. With door open if there is continuity then you will need to replace the door switch. If the blue wire from timer checks ok then you have a bad timer and would need to replace it.

Jjon, If you tested the thermal fuses and thermostats and they checked ok then the only part you should need would be the heating element WP4391960. Double check your venting from the blower wheel to the outside of the unit as well. Clogged venting can lead to drying issues.

Swannyriver, You will want to check your dryer venting to ensure that it is clear from the blower wheel all the way to the outside of unit. A clogged vent will cause the unit to not dry properly.

Hello Jack. Disconnect the power and remove the back panel off the dryer. Then remove the heater housing from the dryer on the right hand side. Now you can access and remove the heater from the unit and replace it.