Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

Guy, It is possible that the heating element could be bad and still have continuity even if it is grounding to the housing. If the unit has been overheating then it would not be bad to change the hi limit thermostat.

Hello Jay. Yes, as long as the wire that was used is a high temp wire, it will be fine in the unit.

Hello Dave. Use a flat blade to release the clips and raise the top of the unit. Then remove the screws securing the front panel and remove the panel from the unit. Once removed, you will test the heater WPY503978 in the unit. It should read closed for continuity. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Dee, Melted wires on an electric dryer heater are usually due to a loose connection, causing a higher amperage draw. You want to check and make sure, the line cord connections at the terminal block are proper and tight as possible. Check and insure the connectors at the motor switch(both the blue and black wires) and heater assembly are tight. You may want to remove the heater assembly and check the porcelain insulators for cracks and loose fittings. Also check and clean the exhaust vent pipe, excess heat can also cause the dryer element to cycle off and on excessively. Thanks

Hello Ken. The heater WPY503978 and fuses WP40113801 WPW10116735 are located under the drum. You will need to use a flat blade and release the clips under the top panel and raise the top of the dryer and remove the screws securing the front panel to the unit. Remove the front panel and you can access the element under the drum on the left. Make sure the unit is disconnected from power before attempting any repair. Hope this helps.

Hi Dale. If the heating element is partially shorted, it will allow for a low heat issue. You use a volt/ohm meter part and see if the element is between 11-18 ohms, not shorted ans not open. Element part # WPY503978. If the cycling thermostat is defective it will open prematurely not allowing a full heat swing. Use a thermometer in the exhaust and see if it opens @ approx. 155° and closes at 130°. Cycling thermostat is part # WP37001136. Thank You.

Hello LC. You will need to remove the wires from the heater element WPY503978 and test and see where you are loosing power from. Then you can determine if the timer or the motor is bad and will need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Loraine. If you disconnect the power and release the clips under the front of the dryer top corners, you can raise the top of the dryer. Then remove the screws on the inside securing the front panel to the cabinet. Once the front panel is removed, you can access and replace the heater WPY503978 and thermal fuse under the left side of the drum. Hope this helps.

Hi Issac. There is a thermostat part # is WPW10116735. Clean your venting and insure that your vent hood/ cap outside works well also. Thank you.

Hi Mike. Yes your heating element uses 220vac to operate correctly. The crackling might be caused by a restriction in the vent hose or in the vent cap / hood assembly outside. Please make sure your vent system is totally clear and working properly. Make sure all the heat will not be able to back - up into the dryer and cause overheating issues. This will lead to crackling noises, lint backing up and immediate failure issues . If we can assist further , please let us know. Thank - you.