Whirlpool WP37001136 Cycling Thermostat (146°F), 1 OEM Part

I went ahead and ordered the element, and the 2 different thermostats not knowing exactly which one might be the problem. My My Maytag opens from the front and it was actually pretty easy to get into. Also gave me the opportunity to vacuum out the inside of the dryer. Pop the top off, remove the wires that connect the door switch (noting the colors and placement), take off the 2 inside nuts that hols the fron on, pull it forward and lift it off, 3 inside screws to take out to inside lint part (easy to clean), and you are all set. The element and thermostats are in the back of the dryer so you do need to reach in, from the front, to the back and remove the two screws that hold the element in. A flashlight helps. Also, I took a quick picture with my phone of the wires just to make sure I got them replaced in the right position. Pulled the wires, took out the 2 screws, and worked the element out of it's slot. The thermostats are located on the element so I put the new thermos on the new element, and slid the new element/thermos back into place and replaced the 2 screws. Put it all back together and it works fine. Take the time to clean out your dryer vent while the dryer is away from the wall. I used one of those long brushes with my shop vac.

Cleaned out all the vent pipes and inner dryer air flow paths of lint. Replaced both the hi temp thermostat and both gas valve coils to finally get it to work correctly. I replaced the cycling thermostat and flame sensor also, but this apparently was not the problem. Dryer hasn't worked this well in several years, so coils may have been degrading much earlier. It is like having a new dryer. I bypassed the hi-temp thermostat initially, and the dryer heated up correctly for a few minutes, then stayed cool. This indicated the coils were failing when heated. I replaced the coils, then tested with the front cover removed as there is no inspection port on my old dryer model. The new coils did not fix it with the front panel removed. After trying several other things, I decided to try the new coils again, but put the front panel back on before cycling, and it worked. I have no idea why new coils did not work the first time, unless I had a poor connection. The air fluff only, no heat cycle should advance the timer as no heat is required in this cycle. The advice on AppliancePartsPro.com site was essential and gave me confidence that I could fix it eventually. Thanks to AppliancePartsPro.com for a great experience.

Replaced all parts and dryer started right up. note vacuumed vent hose very well i believe this was what caused thermal fuse to fail. air way was about 80-90% restricted causing dryer to cycle

I narrowed it down to a sensor, not knowing witch one I order 4 different sensors. It took about 15 minutes to install. Sadly they were not the problem. But I did figure the problem out. It turned out to be the coils for the gas valve. When I Would turn the dryer on the burner would start and go thru a cycle, it would do this for about 4 cycles then the burner would not turn on. But all is good I should not have any problems with this for awhile.

Replaced the coil kit and the cycling thermosta and dryer is working perfectly now.Thanks for the helpful troubleshooting and videos.