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Customer Questions and Answers for Washer Lid Lock Assembly by Whirlpool

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By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM20497812
Manufacturer Part Number: W11307244

Washer won't start or stops mid-cycle? A faulty lid lock assembly prevents operation. Moderately difficult DIY repair—installation video available.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Washer Lid Lock Assembly (Part Number: OEM20497812)

Tony for Model Number MVWC565FWO

The lid latch/lock just keeps clicking. I am able to work the latching mechanism reaching my finger under the shroud. In the drain/spin cycle, the lid lock light comes on for few seconds then goes out. Most of the time the water will start filling but cuts off. Most of the time the lock latch just clicks even with my fingers holding the two switches in and the retracting lock is manually pushed forward. It just will not start, it keeps clicking at lock/latch

1 Answer

Tony, with the power cord unplugged from the wall outlet, the main control W11116594 will need to be accessed. At connection J6, the wire connection will need to be removed and the wires will be used to test the lock. From the wire location pin 2 to pin 3, with the lid closed the resistance reading should measure between 85 to 155O. From there, the lock switch would be tested from the wire location pin 1 to pin 2 and it should measure an open circuit with the lid unlocked. If the test fails to fall within this tolerance, the latch W11307244 would need to be replaced. If the testing falls within tolerance, the most likely failure is in the main control.

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1 Answer

Hello Jerald, check if the splutch assembly has a problem and not disengaging , next check if any clothing has gotten caught under the agitator. The drive motor will struggle if trying to turn the agitator and clothes basket at the same time in agitation cycle.

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1 Answer

Peter, There will be a tech sheet at the front inside the washer that you will want to access and put the unit into service diagnostic mode. Once in diagnostics, you should be able to lock and unlock the lid.

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Tom C for Model Number MVWC555DW1

Maytag washer 2 1/2 years old close lid after clothes and washer liquid, normal wash, hit start button, begins to fill, sensing light is on, click and clicks but never goes into wash mode to wash, recently we noticed when it did finish a wash cycle and even hours later we would notice when we went to put into dryer that the lid lock light was on and woudnt go off until we held cancel start button in for 3 seconds, no this new issue of just sensing and not washing, the drum spins freely even in rinse and spin, no issue with spinning drum, im after much intranet searching its probly the lid lock switch, any ideas would be helpful....thank you

1 Answer

Hello Tom, your washer has an electronic control and is equipped with a self-diagnostic function, the technical datasheet to do this test is included with your washer, it is in a plastic bag located on the inside of the front panel near the top, .You can run the Fault code test to determine what the control board is seeing as a fault. Also all washer components can be tested in the Manual test mode.

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1 Answer

Russ, the control WPW10711303 would need to be inspected for loose connections or signs of overheating as well as the latch W11307244 harness for any wires that were possibly bare and touching metal. The capacitor W11395618 should also be inspected for signs of failure.

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1 Answer

Rafael, You would want to call 877-477-7278 and ask a customer service representative for this information based on your location.

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1 Answer

Sonia, In the tech sheet, there is a section called manual test mode. This will allow you to control the door lock. I will send you a copy in case you don't have a tech sheet. Follow the instructions to enter the service mode then turn the dial until the lights correspond with the manual test mode and push start. You will then hit start again to toggle the lid between the lock and unlock. The manual test mode is page 9.

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1 Answer

Chis, You can try unplugging the unit for a couple of minutes and then apply power. Usually, that will do it. Don't forget to calibrate the unit after the part is installed. There should be directions with the part.

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1 Answer

Greg, it is possible that the latch was engaged in the lock position and not allowing the strike to enter the latch assembly. If you disconnect the lock from the control while the unit is turned off, you can test the lock to see if it is in the locked state. If you test the blue wire to the white wire for resistance, if it reads 0 ohms then it is in the locked state. If it reads infinite, then the lock is in the open position. This will help to identify if the lock is in the locked position.

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