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Customer Questions and Answers for Lid Lock Assembly by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM20497812
Manufacturer Part Number: W11307244

The lid lock is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool washers. It is designed to keep the door securely closed during operation.

Symptoms of a faulty lid lock:

  • Washer will not start
  • Washer stopping randomly during operation
  • Lid will not lock

By replacing the latch, you can restore door closure and prevent interruptions in your washer's operation. Improve your washer's safety and efficiency with this durable Lid Lock Assembly.

This latch can also be used on Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore/Sears brand appliances.

Please note:  The part might arrive in the locked position. Install the lid lock and power up your washing machine to reset the lock to the open position.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Lid Lock Assembly (Part Number: OEM20497812)

1 Answer

Jim, F5E2 =Lid Lock Fault: Fault is displayed if the lid is in a locked state, but the lid switch is open; the control not sensing the strike in the lid lock. • User presses START with the lid open. • The main control cannot detect the lid switch opening and closing properly. The strike is not assembled correctly on the lid. • Lid lock bezel not installed correctly F9E1 – LONG DRAIN: Fault is displayed when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on for 10 minutes. • Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged? Check the tub sump under the impeller for obstructions. • Is the drain hose height greater than 8'. Too much detergent, Check the pressure hose connection from the tub to the pressure sensor. Is the hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air? • Is the pump running?

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1 Answer

Chuck, the red wire to white wire test is good as this would test if the lock assembly is in the locked position. The blue wire to white wire test is going to be for the lid switch and the lid lock solenoid. When the lid is open, the lid switch and solenoid should show an open circuit. When the lid is closed, the resistance reading should measure in-between 85 to 155 Ohms of resistance.

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1 Answer

Renac, Thanks for the question!!! You will need to locate your tech sheet and run the diagnostics mode to help determine the issue.

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Jeff for Model Number MVWC565FW1

A couple of weeks ago I asked this question and received this answer which seemed plausible: I had to replace my door lock W10682535 with a new assembly W11307244. The problem I am having is that the strike does not seem to fit into the new lock. Is there a ew strike that I need to use? Thank you Jeff for Model Number MVWC565FW1 ANSWER Hello Jeff, The new door lock is probably in the locked position. There are two ways to correct this. You can use a wooden popsicle stick to force the door lock assembly open, (the easy way), or you can go into the electronic controls and force the door lock open using the commands on the tech sheet. This is much more difficult and few customers have success this way without calling us for technical assistance. However. I checked the lock several times and it was in the unlocked position. I determined that after examining both lock assemblies that even though they are very similar there is a slight difference where the strike engages the lock and in the new assembly (W11307244) the opening is slightly narrower and is indeed narrower enough that the strike is unable to fir into the lock. The part # for the strike is W10714899. So I thought maybe there was a new strike for the narrower latch and I found a reference to another strike that now replaces the original strike and is W10837741 and so I ordered that strike. Well I got the part today. It came in a sealed plastic bag that stated it was a genuine Whirlpool Factory Certified Part and had the part # W10837741 imprinted on the bag. However when I opened the bag the part that was in there was W10714899 which was the same strike I already had that did not fit. So I am becoming very frustrated ate this point and don't understand why I can't fined the correct strike that fits the new lock. Thank you!!

1 Answer

Jeff, It is possible that the wrong latch assembly was placed in the bag but unfortunately, we are not showing any information on there being a change to the part that would cause the strike to not work.

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1 Answer

Bertha, The only way to get this to unlock would be to put it in the machine, go into service diagnostics in the manual setting to the lock and unlock it that way. This should correct the issue. The tech sheet is inside the cabinet of the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Jeff, The new door lock is probably in the locked position. There are two ways to correct this. You can use a wooden popsicle stick to force the door lock assembly open, (the easy way), or you can go into the electronic controls and force the door lock open using the commands on the tech sheet. This is much more difficult and few customers have success this way without calling us for technical assistance.

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1 Answer

Lorraine, the lid lock assembly would be part number W11307244. If the part was purchased with us, our warranty information can be viewed using the following link. https://www.appliancepartspros.com/customerservice/warranty.aspx

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1 Answer

Hello Ron, It is hard to say exactly without the model number but our best guess would be that door strike W10837741 would go with this design lid latch assembly.

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1 Answer

Hello Jim, This is normal operation since the purpose of the lid switch is to stop the machine if the lid is raised.

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Tony for Model Number MVWC565FWO

The lid latch/lock just keeps clicking. I am able to work the latching mechanism reaching my finger under the shroud. In the drain/spin cycle, the lid lock light comes on for few seconds then goes out. Most of the time the water will start filling but cuts off. Most of the time the lock latch just clicks even with my fingers holding the two switches in and the retracting lock is manually pushed forward. It just will not start, it keeps clicking at lock/latch

1 Answer

Tony, with the power cord unplugged from the wall outlet, the main control W11116594 will need to be accessed. At connection J6, the wire connection will need to be removed and the wires will be used to test the lock. From the wire location pin 2 to pin 3, with the lid closed the resistance reading should measure between 85 to 155O. From there, the lock switch would be tested from the wire location pin 1 to pin 2 and it should measure an open circuit with the lid unlocked. If the test fails to fall within this tolerance, the latch W11307244 would need to be replaced. If the testing falls within tolerance, the most likely failure is in the main control.

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