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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Led Light Assembly by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18067611
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10515058

Replaces flickering or non-functional LED light board in your refrigerator. Install when lights strobe, dim, or fail. Verify fit with your model number.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Refrigerator Led Light Assembly (Part Number: OEM18067611)

1 Answer

Hello Mike,
those lights you mentioned are in the same series light circuit, the freezer LED light module W11683243 has failed and is causing the ref lights in that circuit to be dim.

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1 Answer

Karen,
To remove the light you will need to slide the cover off to one side. Under the cover some units use two screws with plastic clips around the outside of the light, other units just use clips pushed into the lining of the refrigerator. You can use a small screwdriver or putty knife. When you are ready to order you can order online or feel free to call into the office and one of our customer service reps will be glad to assist you. They will also give you shipping options and a total for your order.

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1 Answer

Mike, the freezer LED WPW10515057 would need to be tested for 12VDC. If it has 12VDC going to it, then it has failed and is causing the symptoms to occur in the other lights. Based on the information provided, the most likely thing happening is that the freezer LED is shorted out and is receiving 12VDC. If an LED shorts out, the other LEDs that share the same circuit will either be very dim or will not operate until the shorted LED is repaired.

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Safety note: testing, adjusting or bypassing anything while the appliance has power is a job for a qualified technician. Unplug it before you open it up, and keep it unplugged until every panel is back on.

1 Answer

Pavel, the top refrigerator light WPW10515058 would need to be tested for 120VAC from the yellow wire to the white wire when the door is open. If there is 120VAC, the next step would be to test for 11-14VDC from the yellow (with red tracer) wire to the red wire. If there is not 11-14VDC, the top refrigerator light would need to be replaced. If there was not 120VAC, the refrigerator door switch would need to be tested for 120VAC at the yellow wire to identify if it is allowing voltage through. If it is, and there was not 120VAC at the light, there is a wiring issue.

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Safety note: testing, adjusting or bypassing anything while the appliance has power is a job for a qualified technician. Unplug it before you open it up, and keep it unplugged until every panel is back on.

1 Answer

Hello Michelle,
You should check for 120Vac at the mainboard connector P3, pin 1 with the doors open. If good, replace the LED board W11683241. If not, replace the mainboard WPW10589837.

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1 Answer

Hello Suzy,
the LED light modules are wired in series, any fault of one affects all the others. The most likely faulty one is the one in the freezer on the ceiling, it is part W11683243. To replace it or any of them unplug the ref from power and using a putty knife carefully pry it out of the liner and again be careful with the attached wiring, unplug the wires and plug in new module and reinsert it into the liner, plug ref back in.

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1 Answer

Jarvis, the freezer light WPW10515057 will need to be tested for voltage. With the black probe of a meter on the yellow/red wire and the red probe on the gray wire, there should be between 11 to 14VDC. If there is voltage within that range, the freezer light has shorted and is impacting the other lights.

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Safety note: testing, adjusting or bypassing anything while the appliance has power is a job for a qualified technician. Unplug it before you open it up, and keep it unplugged until every panel is back on.

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