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Customer Questions and Answers for Motor Start Switch by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18038667
Manufacturer Part Number: WP8529896

Installation instructions included.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Motor Start Switch (Part Number: OEM18038667)

1 Answer

Hello David, You will want to check the pressure switch and pressure hose. Make sure that the pressure hose is not clogged or kinked which would cause the unit to sense that the unit has water in it.

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1 Answer

Hello Wayjer, You may want to check to see if you have a partial blockage in your drain pump or drain lines. Also check your pressure hose and air dome to ensure that it is not kinked or clogged.

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1 Answer

Hello Ed, With the unit not spinning or agitating you should first check the motor coupling 285753A. A broken motor coupling will cause no agitation or spin. You may also want to check continuity on the lid switch WP3355458to make sure you have continuity when the lid is closed. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello Mick, The switch on the motor kicks out the start winding for the initial start-up of the motor. The issue you are having is either going to be a brake not dis-engaging, an article of clothing between the tubs, a bad motor, or a bad spin bearing. This is all speculation since there is no model number. Please re-post with the model number and we will go into further detail.

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Bob for Model Number 110.23014102

My washer runs through all the cycles, will agitate and spin, but it just won't pump the water out. I checked the pump, not leaking, spins freely and no obstructions in it. Checked the motor coupling, looks almost like new. Motor spins freely by hand. Could this be a switch/timer problem not sending the drain signal to the motor, or is it the motor itself. I cannot hear the motor trying to run the pump at all, no humming, chattering, etc. Thanks for any suggestions.

1 Answer

Hello Bob. Check and make sure the drain hose is not clogged on the unit. If not, you will need to order and replace the pump on the unit. If there is power to the pump and it does not work it needs to be replaced on the unit.

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1 Answer

John, It sounds more like a voltage supply problem, than a washing machine issue. Low voltage or fluctuating voltage, would cause the motor to overheat, and eventually cause the motor overload to open and eliminate power through the motor, until the overload cools down and "closes" the circuit. You do want to check and make sure there's nothing small, stuck between the tubs, or in the pump, causing excessive drag on the motor, then conduct a voltage test at the outlet, while the washer is running. The voltage needs to remain above 105 VAC, when the motor surges(starts) the closer to 120 VAC, the better.

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1 Answer

SEBE, Follow the instructions(figure 3) The switch contacts inside the switch may have been re located or routed differently and you could damage the motor windings. Thanks

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Greg for Model Number LSN1000HQ0

I wrote: The washer fills with water, but does not agitate, spin or drain. The motor gets very hot, but does not rotate under power. The motor, drain and agitator all rotate freely by hand. What is the problem? Asked by Greg for Model LSN1000HQ0 you answered: Hello Greg. Test for power to the motor. If there is power, and the motor does not turn, and is not locked up, you will need to replace the motor AP2907974. You can test this with a multi-meter AP3873826. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Follow up Question: Since the motor turns freely and does get red hot when the power is on to it; could it be the start switch or capacitor instead of the motor?

1 Answer

Hello Greg. If the motor is only getting hot, and does not hum or run, it does not sounds like the switch or capacitor. This is usually caused by bad windings and bearing in the motor or the timer on the unit has some stuck contacts. You can test for power at the blue and the orange wire on the motor. If there is power at both wires at the same time, you have a bad timer. If there is power only on the blue, regular speed, or the orange, low speed, then the timer is good. Also, test for 120 volts at the red wire. If 120 is there, the capacitor is good. This would lead you to the motor assembly needing to be replaced.

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1 Answer

John, The noise is not a "relay" but, you're partially correct, the motor switch contacts can "chatter" and click when attempting to start the motor. It could be due to a low voltage issue, excessive drag on the motor, fault in the pump or gearcase, or the obvious weak contacts in the motor switch. Usually you need a minimum voltage of 105 VAC, when that motor is in the start winding of a spin cycle, so you may want to verify that first. Thanks

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