Robert T May 25, 2013 for Model Number Estate Gas Heavy duty 5 cycle 3 temp I turn on the dryer and it blows air and then it starts a loud humming sound and doesn't heat up. The humming will stop and then do it all over and never heat up.
1 Answer Hello Robert. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the motor is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. Read More...
Juststeve May 24, 2013 for Model Number Kenmore Series 70 Gas Dryer We have a Kenmore Series 70 Gas Dryer. The igniting coil heats up but it never ignites. I don't smell gas, so gas does not appear to be coming from the nozzle. We just had a repair man here last week, and he replaced the Igniter Kit. We were getting intermittent ignition for a day after that, but nothing since. We replaced the vent tube, and the dryer was otherwise cleaned. What should we be looking to replace?
1 Answer Juststeve, The most likely cause would be a bad flame sensor or a bad coils on the gas valve. You can test the flame sensor and it should be closed when doing a continuity test. If it checks ok then the coils are faulty. Read More...
Kim April 21, 2013 for Model Number LGA10AW The dryer igniter glows, ignites the gas, the dryer heats up and then shuts off. This cycle occurs over and over again but the clothes do not dry in the amount of time of the cycle. I have tried this with the vent off the back of the dryer to make sure it is not a obstructed vent.
1 Answer Kim, Depending on how quickly the unit is cycling, it could be bad coils on the gas valves or bad cycling thermostat. If the burner lights and goes out within about a minute then the coils on the gas valve would be the most likely cause of failure. Read More...
Gregory B April 18, 2013 for Model Number Amana ALG 643 RBC Amana Gas Drier Stops getting hot after 6 minutes In all modes, the dryer comes on normally. It starts tumbling, the igniter lights, the gas comes on and ignites after 25 seconds. After about 6 min. the gas goes out …and stays out. The igniter continues to cycle on and off, but the gas never comes back on. I shut it off, wait 20 min., and start the routine again. I have replaced the cycling thermostat and the timer unit (wasn't necessary). --------------------------- Test: I jumpered the flame sensor and attached the flame sensor terminals to a continuity tester. Result: I had full continuity through the flame sensor and then fired up the system. System started normal as above, but after about 25 seconds, the flame sensor switched closed as normal, and the gas never came on. Conclusion: Flame sensor seems to work properly. Flame sensor closes when heated and cuts current to the coil which allows gas to flow. Test: I jumpered the limit thermostat and attached the limit thermostat terminals to a continuity tester. Result: I had full continuity through the limit thermostat and then fired up the system. System ran the same as above, and was not affected by the test. Conclusion: the limit thermometer does not seem to be the issue and probably only breaks the current when the temperature exceeds the safety limit. I am still stumped. Please Help.
1 Answer Gregory, It sounds like the coils 279834 on the gas valve may be the issue. It allows the gas to fire but once it has time to heat the coils it breaks the circuit in the coils and causes unit to not light anymore. Read More...
Stumped March 17, 2013 for Model Number MDG3000AWW Hello The dryer starts, ignitor heats, flame begins for about 15 - 30 seconds and then the dryer shuts off and will not start without recycling the timer. I have done the following: 1- cleaned dryer and vent to outside 2- checked and confirmed closed circut on flame sensor, hi-limit sensor in the fire cone and the small white tubular sensor on the blower housing wall. There is a 4 wire sensor that Im not sure how to test. Any ideas as to what can be causing the dryer to shut down? Thanks
1 Answer Stumped, The four wire sensor on the blower housing is the "cycling" thermostat WP3387134 to test this component, you should read a "closed" circuit across the two 1/4 inch terminals, and approximately 2400 ohms across the two smaller1/8 in. terminals, and the thermostat has to be "cold"(room temperature). But, none of the things you've tested and checked has anything to do with the dryer running (except the thermal fuse) WP33001762 This is usually a "one shot" fuse, when it opens, the dryer wont run until it is repalced. The best guess at this point would be an issue in the dryness control board WP33002389 or a loose connection on the gray wire between the timer, thermal fuse and motor. Read More...
Warren March 15, 2013 for Model Number Whirlpool Estate TGDS840JQ1 Reading previous replies and comments here, I see there should be 3.2 to 3.6 VOLTS AC power at the gas valve when igniter is on....AND....the igniter should DRAW 3.2 to 3.6 AMPS current when igniter is on. Volts being read with volt ohm meter, and current being read with a clamp on amp probe. Is this correct? How does the 115 volts power supply to the dryer reduce to only 3.2 to 3.6 volts in the system?
1 Answer Hello Warren. That response is for a gas range, not a gas dryer. On the dryer, you will check the coils, and the flame sensor and thermal cut-outs. If all is good, then the igniter could be weak and need to be replaced in the unit. Check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter MA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Test the coils after running the dryer for about 10 minutes. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Albanylandlord March 11, 2013 for Model Number LDG6914AAE Hi, My dryer ignites at the beginning of a new load and fires until the temperature cutoff, but after a few times it doesn't fire again for that load. THe glowplug will light brightly - seemingly as bright as the other times, but there is no ignition. Thanks
1 Answer Albanylandlord, You will need to test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter and make sure it is getting hot enough to light the gas. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Badsneaker March 10, 2013 for Model Number AGD4370TQ0 Dryer won't heat. I see there are many parts it could be. Suggestion?
1 Answer Hello Badsneaker. You will need to test the thermostats and the flame sensor and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter and make sure it is getting hot enough to light the gas. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
1 Answer Hello Martin To properly assist you we will need your model number to help you with this. Please post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx Read More...
Tanzy February 08, 2013 for Model Number LGR6848AN0 My Whirlpool dryer will not get hot and I was told to replace either the heating element, coils, thermostat or the heating sensor. I have replaced the both coils and the heating element and I still don't have any heat. Which part do you think I should try next? Any suggestions?
1 Answer Hello Tanzy, You will want to check the thermal fuse for continuity. If the thermal fuse does not have continuity then it is bad and needs replaced. Check the flame sensor for continuity as well. No continuity means it is bad and needs to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...