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Customer Questions and Answers for Oven Sensor Assembly by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18049359
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10181986

The Oven Sensor Assembly is an OEM part for Whirlpool ovens, designed to accurately measure the oven's internal temperature and communicate it to the control board. This ensures that the oven maintains the desired temperature setting during baking or roasting, providing consistent cooking results.  

Causes of a bad Oven Sensor Assembly can include exposure to high temperatures for prolonged periods, affecting the sensor's accuracy, electrical malfunctions like short circuits or wiring issues impacting its performance, and physical damage from cleaning or moving the oven compromising the sensor's integrity.

Symptoms of a bad Oven Sensor Assembly include:

  • The oven does not heat to the set temperature 
  • Over or undercooking of food 
  • Error codes displayed on the oven's control panel 

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Oven Sensor Assembly (Part Number: OEM18049359)

Matt for Model Number MGR8775AS0

sometimes, my gas oven will heat up correctly initially, but then not cycle back on later in the bake cycle to maintain temperature. so 20 minutes in it might show 350 on display, but when I turn off and back on it might show that really at 165 or something. Sometimes the oven works fine and it cycles through no problem the oven is 9 years old and started doing this intermittently about 1 year ago Also, sometimes I'll hear the clicking of the ignition process but not the "whoosh" of the gas valve opening and it will stop clicking then after a few seconds it will try to ignite again. sometimes it might take a few times till it works. sometimes the valve will open and it will start heating right away what's going on? can my ignitor be a problem if it sometimes it works fine? maybe temp sensor? safety valve? clogged gas jet?

1 Answer

Matt, as this is an intermittent failure, the most likely cause of failure will be the main oven control WPW10477078 which can be verified by testing for 120VAC at the wire found on connection CON2 pin 7 during the state of failure. If there is not voltage during the failure, the control has failed. Unfortunately, if this is the case, the control has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available.

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1 Answer

Don H, Based on the fact the igniter glows then the oven sensor and board are working. At this point, it would be either the igniter that is not drawing enough amps or the safety valve that is not opening. Check for 3.2 to 3.6 vac at the safety valve, if it is in range then the valve is your issue and would need to be replaced. If the voltage is not in range the igniter is weak and would need to be replaced

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1 Answer

Bob, With the Broil element on, test for power from the power board on T2-2 and T1A-2 you should read 240vac. If the broil element and thermal fuse are good then it is likely a power board issue. Unfortunately, it seems that this part has been discontinued by the manufacturer & is no longer available. No alternate or substitute part has been recommended by the manufacturer. https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-am-goc-elec-wp9761909-ap6014105.html

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Gary for Model Number WFE540H0AS0 Whirlpool Range

The oven bake or boiler doesn't work, and there is no continuity, reading ZERO Ohms across terminals. Confirmed there is 240V going to the terminals. Any suggestions on what part failed? Thank you. Gary for Model Number Whirlpool Oven WFE540H0AS0 ANSWER Gary, If there is 240 Vac getting to the elements but they are not coming on then the elements are bad. If there is power to the board but not out to the elements then the board would be the issue. Thanks for the prompt response. Just checked the probe sensor and getting ZERO Ohms, should be ~ 1080Ohma. Is it possible that both Bake and Broil elements go bad at the same time? Or can a bad probe sensor kill continuity to both bake and broil?

1 Answer

Gary, the oven temp. sensor isn't the likely issue, the oven should still heat or should produce an error code. You should read a resistance of 16 ohms(+/- 10%) across the bake and broil element terminals with the wires detached. Since you have 240 VAC to the range, the most likely problem is a broken or loose wire connection between the elements and the ERC/Clock. If that's OK then the double line break relay (K5) on the clock has failed and there is no L2 voltage to either the bake or broil element(s)

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1 Answer

Gary, If there is 240 Vac getting to the elements but they are not coming on then the elements are bad. If there is power to the board but not out to the elements then the board would be the issue.

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1 Answer

Warren, This issue would be a faulty control board which is part number 8190201 but unfortunately has been discontinued by the manufacturer with no suitable replacement available. You can check with a company called CoreCentricSolutions.com and see if you are able to get this board repaired.

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1 Answer

Ron, You will want to check the oven sensor at the control board for the resistance of 1080 ohms at room temperature and 1654 ohms at 350. If the resistance check ok then the control board will be the issue.

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1 Answer

Jake, with the power cord unplugged, it would be recommended that the bake element is tested for 24O and the broil element is tested for 16O of resistance. If the elements test properly, then the failure would likely be in the oven control W11122555. To ensure that the correct element part numbers can be obtained, the full model number would be necessary as there is a small difference.

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