Customer Questions and Answers for Range Surface Element Switch by Whirlpool

Hello Susan, This can only be caused by a bad infinite switch. The particular switch will have to be ordered by the size of the surface burner. The easiest way to determine the switch at fault is to first unplug the unit from the power supply. Pull the unit out from the wall and remove the rear control panel cover. Look at the infinite switches. Each one will have a terminal labeled "P". Using a pair of needle nosed pliers, remove these wires from the "P" terminals and slip them on only far enough to make contact, but not far enough to "lock" onto the terminals. Plug the unit back in and have someone watch the hot surface light. Using the needle nosed pliers, remove each wire carefully, only touching the insulated part of the wire, one at a time. Each one, if the light doesn't go off, slip the wire back onto the terminal. When you remove the wire from the bad switch, the light will go off. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE TERMINAL WITH THE PLIERS! ALSO USE CARE NOT TO TOUCH THE WIRE OR TERMINAL TO ANYTHING BUT THE TERMINAL YOU PULLED IT OFF OF. I certainly don't want anyone hurt.

Hello. You need to check for a loose or burnt connection at the switches. Then test for power and see where you are losing it at on the wires. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Doug. Access the left front switch and test from L1 to ground and L2 to ground. Both of these should show 120 volts AC. If one is dead, you will need to look for a burnt or broken wire on the unit. Then repair the bad wire on the unit. Also, make sure you have 240 volts at the terminal block on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Sportsfan, You're on your wat to a proper diagnosis. To conduct a voltage test at the infinite switches, you first need to be careful, don't short anything out, including yourself. With a meter and power to the range on, you should read 220/240 VAC across the L1 and L2 terminals of each switch(an extra step, check each terminal to chassis ground, meter should indicate 110/120 VAC), with the switch turned on to a high setting(so you get a proper voltage reading) You conduct the same test: Across H1 and H2 terminals, you should see 220/240 VAC, and 110/120 VAC from H1 to chassis ground, and H2 to chassis ground. The L2 to H2 circuit through the switch is the "cycling" circuit, so the voltage on the H2 terminal to chassis ground will cycle off and on, to control the burner and heat. We'll be sending you the wiring information for your stove, and that should be pretty helpful to you.

Hello Todd! The left rear and right front burner switch is part number WP3149404. The right front burner switch is part number WP3148952. The left front burner switch is part number WP9761048. The center burner switch is part number 8053510. I hope this helps you determine the switch needed for your product. Thanks!

Hello Paul, This is a contact in one of your infinite switches that is stuck. The easiest way to determine the failed switch is to turn the power off to the unit and remove the rear cover from the control panel. This exposes the infinite switch connections. Now, as long as you're sure the power is off, remove the four violet wires from the "P" terminals on each of the infinite switches. Make sure none of the wires can contact anything so you don't short anything and cause more issues. Re-connect the power to the unit. Now, one at a time, touch the violet wire to the "P" terminal on its' respective infinite switch. When the light comes back on, the switch that caused it is the bad switch. This is the easy way to test for the bad switch. You can also test for the issue with an ohm meter. This procedure is done with the power off during the test. You have to test from the "P" terminal to the "L1" terminal on each infinite switch. The test should read open, (no continuity). When you get a reading on one, it is bad. Be sure to test them all in case more than one switch has issues. This goes for both testing procedures.

Hello Betty. If the switch is constantly supplying power to the element, yes, replacing the switch will repair the unit.

Hi. One at a time you will need to disconnect the infinite switch "P" (pilot) wire off each switch and temporarily power up checking to see if the light stays on now. Then if it is a LR/RR burner infinite switch that is bad then it is part # WP3149404. If it is for a LF/RF burner infinite switch then it is part # WP3149400. Thank you.

Hello Tom. If there is power coming to the switch, but not out to the element, you will need to replace the surface switch WP3149400. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Randon. You need to pull the unit out and remove the back of the control panel cover and see if there is bad wiring, or if the popping is coming from the switch. If it is coming from the switch, you will need to replace the switch WP3149400 in the unit.