Jon December 08, 2019 for Model Number Wrs325fdam02 My power went out and turned right back on. My whirlpool fridge lights work and everything yet nothing is turning on or running. Is this the defrost? Model number wrs325fdam02
1 Answer Jon, You will want to test the thermostat WPW10583800 which is located in the top of the refrigerator section and controls the temperature. Test the thermostat for continuity when on. No power needed for this test. Unplug your unit to be safe. Read More...
Bernard November 08, 2019 for Model Number 10650202990 I can’t get my fridge to start. I connected the compressor up straight to the power and it will run. What could the problem be?
1 Answer Bernard, If the fans in the unit are running but the compressor is not then it could be a faulty start device but this would most likely be caused by a faulty defrost control board 4388932. Read More...
Rob September 25, 2019 for Model Number GX5SHTXVA00 Where is the adaptive defrost assembly located in a Whirlpool French Door Bottom Freezer GX5SHTXVA00? Thanks
1 Answer Rob, this model will use the jazz board design WPW10503278 which would be located in the refrigerator section. This is the main control for the unit and is also responsible for the defrost cycle. Read More...
Christopher August 07, 2019 for Model Number ED2KHAXVQ01 My condenser fan only runs when the compressor is running. This is causing the fridge section to be too warm. The capacitor, compressor starter, and defrost thermostat have all been replaced and are testing as working with a multimeter. I have made a visual inspection of the Adaptive Defrost Control Board and Thermostat, and do not see any issues visually. The Thermostat is turning on the compressor properly, but it turns off before the fridge section drops to 40 degrees. Is the Adaptive Defrost Control Board the most likely culprit at this point, or is there another board that can turn on the condenser fan even when the compressor is off?
1 Answer Christopher, the condenser fan and evaporator fan are only going to operate when the compressor is operating in this model. The issue is going to be either with the thermostat WP2315562 or the adaptive defrost control 4388932. With the compressor not running and the temperature not cold enough, the thermostat can be tested for incoming and outgoing voltage. The thermostat should receive 120VAC from the defrost control, and when the temperature is not within 4 degrees of the set temp, 120VAC should leave the thermostat to go to the compressor and fans. If the thermostat is receiving voltage, but not sending it out, then the thermostat has failed. If the thermostat is not receiving voltage, then the adaptive defrost control has failed. Read More...
1 Answer Freddie, take the bucket out of the freezer and empty the ice. Place the bucket under warm running water until all the frost and ice is melted away. You will need to dry it off and return it to the freezer. Read More...
Wayne February 15, 2018 for Model Number 106.70212410 Defrost not working, replaced bi metal, replaced control board, heater does have continuity. How do I force defrost and does the heater need to be free from touching any metal inside the brackets?
1 Answer Wayne, To force the unit into defrost you would push the light switch 5 times and it should enter defrost. The heater touching metal would not cause an issue unless the heater is damaged. Read More...
Chris November 03, 2017 for Model Number KSRS25FGSS14 My side by side fridgedair fridge does not go into defrost mode. the Bimetal thermostat is fine as I checked for continuity when cold . I also confirmed that the heater has continuity per your various web site guides and information. I have replaced the Defrost control board and when I turned on the fridge the first time the heater came on for about 5 min. Hours later the fridge start to click and the lights would flicker about 10 times and then the compressor would stop. Minutes later the compressor would come back on and the fridge would continue to work... The problem is it does not go into defrost mode, even when I turn it off for 30 sec and back on with the fridge off. the heater does not come on even thought the bi-metal is cold enough to keep a circuit. Is it possible something is causing the control board to fail? How can I TEST the control board to see if it has failed... Any feedback would be appreciated.
1 Answer Chris, Double check to make sure that the heater is not grounding out as this could be causing the issue. This would be the most likely cause for the issue. Read More...
Chip September 26, 2017 I have a Whirlpool side-by-side with an adaptive defrost module 6105024-REL. Freezer temps plummeted and Fridge side got warm regardless of the thermostat settings. Everything frosted up. I yanked the module and found the large electrolytic cap had failed. Replaced it and re-installed. Freezer/Fridge/defroster all began behaving again. But the icemaker refused to do anything. I checked the valve. I checked power (odd voltages to the icemaker). After two days of pondering, I pulled off the three-prong connector to the adaptive module and the icemaker began to work. I checked the resistors: 67KOhm. So clearly the module is not controlling the icemaker. It's merely sensing whether the brown wire has voltage. So the question is: Why does the adaptive module need to know whether the water line valve has power? What important function am I losing by just leaving it this way with the icemaker not connected to the adaptive module in any way? Thanks for any guidance you can offer on this. I fully understand the need for this module to sense the bimetal switch between the relay and the compressor. I fully understand the need for this module to sense the bimetal switch between the relay and the defrost coil. But there are two other connectors which are a mystery: The three-prong connector which includes the brown wire for the icemaker's water valve and another two-prong connector which I don't know where it goes. What are these for? I'm trying to gauge whether it's essential to buy a new module or just live with it the way it is. The fridge is more than ten years old already. So I'm contemplating how much more $ to invest in it.
1 Answer Hello Chip. As for the circuitry of the board and why it is designed that way, that would be a question for the manufacturer. We would not have that information. Sorry. They recommend if a control board fails, then you need to order and replace that board on the unit. Thank you. Read More...
Chris June 09, 2017 for Model Number Amana ASD2522WRB06 I have an Amana ASD2522WRB06, The refrig is 7 years old. I am having a problem where the refrig/freezer will not "stay on". I can turn the refrig off and then back on and the compressor will kick on and cold air comes out of both sections. However, it gets to a certain point and then cuts off - but then it usally will not automatically come back on. If I turn it off/on it repeats this. Sometimes it actually will "stay on" and work automatically, then other times I will wake up in the morning and it is obvious it has been off for hours. (melted ice, warm refrig side.)
1 Answer Chris, For this issue it sounds like the unit may be sticking in the defrost cycle and would need to get the control board which is part number WPW10366605. Read More...
Slewis May 15, 2017 for Model Number KRS25IKWH01 Coils in the freezer are icing up. The electronic defrost control was clicking then would stop. (Maybe 20 minutes every two days) Does this sound like a bad defrost circuit board? I just replaced the temperature sensor in the freezer and am waiting to see if that fixes it. (The top was lifted up like water had gotten in it). I have not heard the clicking again. Thanks for your videos.
1 Answer SLewis, This issue would most likely be caused by a faulty defrost control board. Read More...