Car Nut July 28, 2011 for Model Number Amana DRS2660BW Back to trip breaker. Tested the defrost timer and everything was good. There should not be continuity between terminals 1 & 3, correct? Unplugged the heater wire from boths connections and the frig worked in both cycles of defrost timer. With frig warm and in defrost cycle, connected heater wire to defrost thermostat (no current when warm) and other end of heater wire was not connected, frig worked. Unplugged heater wire from defrost thermostat and connected heater wire to other (white wire) connection (current) with frig warm and in defrost cycle and frig tripped breaker. Frig worked in run cycle. Tested heater wire and it is 30.5 ohms. With frig cold and in defrost cycle and heater wire connected to the defrost thermostat only (should have current when cold) frig tripped breaker. Am assuming heater wire is bad since whenever it sees voltage it trips breaker. How can it be tested and will operating the frig without the heater wire damage the frig or any of its components? Thanks for your help.
1 Answer Hello Car nut. Here is the way to test the defrost timer from the manufacture. If it is good, then there is a shorted wire. If you try to run the unit without the wire, it will not defrost. Hope this helps. Timer motor operates only when freezer control is closed. After specified amount of actual operating time, inner cam in timer throws the contacts from terminal 4, compressor circuit, to terminal 2, defrost thermostat/defrost heater circuit. After specified defrost cycle time, timer cam resets the circuitry through terminal 4 to compressor. 1. To check timer motor winding, check for continuity between terminals 1 and 3 of timer. 2. Depending on rotating position of the cam, terminal 1 of timer is common to both terminal 2, the defrost mode, and terminal 4, the compressor mode. There should never be continuity between terminals 2 and 4. 3. With continuity between terminals 1 and 4, rotate timer knob clockwise until audible click is heard. When the click is heard, reading between terminals 1 and 4 should be infinite and there should be continuity between terminals 1 and 2. 4. Continuing to rotate time knob until a second click is heard should restore circuit between terminals 1 and 4. Read More...
Car Nut July 25, 2011 for Model Number Amana DRS2660BW Back to trip breaker issue. When the defrost timer is unplugged it will not trip breaker. So question is. if the heater and defroster thermastats are unplugged and the defrost timer is good, will the frig start and run? Also, can the defrost timer be set to off position and check if frig will work. Does the current travel to the thermastat first and from there to the defroster timer. Thanks for you help.
1 Answer Hi Car. All of your questions are answered with a yes. The 2nd "heavy" click starts your compressor in run time. The first "heavy" click will stop the compressor from running to satisfy your cold control setting. The 1st "heavy" click will start the 25-min. of defrost. Sending the 120vac to the defrost thermostat. If your defrost thermostat is closed (14 degrees or lower) it sends the 120vac to the heater. If your heater is good (and not open) your defrost cycle begins. While the heater is in defrost, the defrost thermostat "senses" the rise in temperature and after the coils are defrosted, senses 37-45 degrees and opens stopping the voltage to your heater for safety. Then the defrost timer starts (2nd heavy click) and now you are in your designed run time. The Issue you have is a direct short. I will be more than glad to admit you have had a electrical surge of some sort (poss. Storm) and induced enough voltage to create a direct short in some device which trips your circuit breaker. Can you physically see or smell a burnt part? Is a hot lead wire shorted to ground? by the sounds of it , you may have a bad shorted timer that trips your breakers in defrost, not in run time. The defrost timer part # is WP67001036. Thank you. Read More...
Car Nut July 25, 2011 for Model Number Amana DRS266BW The Refrigerator trips a breaker when thermastat in turned to on position. Have unplugged the compressor, compacitor, rear fan, ice marker, water inlet pump all at once and it will still trip the breaker, so none of these are bad. When the wiring harness at bottom of frig going inside to controls is unplugged frig will not trip breaker. When the yellow wire is removed from the thermastat it will not trip the breaker, and lights work so know frig is getting power. What will cuase the breaker to trip and how to check thermastat, defroster timer and defroster. Thanks for you help
1 Answer Hello Car Nut. Unplug the defrost timer WP67001036 and see if it trips the breaker. If so, you will need to replace the thermostat WP12351006. If it does not trip the breaker, you will need to test the heater and defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. If they are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps.http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Nano July 19, 2011 for Model Number MBB1954CEW I lost the Maytag Frig manual/instruction booklet. What is the proper way to remove the upper shelf on my bottom freezer? I understand it is tedious and difficult at best. Is here anyway you could email me a diagram regarding removing shelf from back wall? I'm super desperate and hoping you can assist. The bottom freezer is not defrosting and keeps freezing the entire bottom under the basket. Thank you so much, Nano
1 Answer Hello Nano. Here are the instructions from the manufacture. Hope this helps. Wire Basket To remove and install basket: • To remove basket, pull basket out to full extension. Tilt up front of basket and pull straight out. • To install, insert basket into refrigerator liner rails and push back into place Pullout Drawer Baskets (some models) (Door assembly of drawer removed from illustration for visual clarity) To remove and replace top basket: • Remove basket by pulling basket out to its full extension and lift out. • Replace basket by sliding into upper molded railing. To remove and replace bottom basket: • Remove basket by lifting basket from rail guides. • Replace basket by placing into rail guides. Ice Service Rack To install and remove rack: • To install, slide L-shaped groove of shelf down over back wall screw. Push rack back until screw is stopped in L-shaped groove (1) . Slide front portion of shelf over front wall screw (2). • To remove, perform above steps in reverse order. Fixed Freezer Shelf To remove and install shelves: • Remove shelf by pulling out to full extension. Tilt up front of shelf and pull straight out. • To install, insert shelf into refrigerator liner rails and push to back of compartment. Slide-Out Freezer Shelf To remove and install shelves: • Remove shelf by pulling out to full extension. Tilt up front of shelf and pull straight out. • To install, insert shelf into refrigerator liner rails and push to back of compartment. Read More...
1 Answer Hello Joe. The defrost timer is located inside the control panel. You will need to remove the control panel from the refrigerator to access the timer WP67001036. Hope this helps. Read More...
Ladybug June 26, 2011 for Model Number 596.62232200 kenmore My freezer appears to be working fine yet the fridge area is warm. I have tried manual reset of the defrost timer (depressing the light switch 5 times in less than 6 seconds,) and have not noticed any changes in over six hours. The compressor does hum. What should I do next, or replace? Cannot find a diagram on this site for my model.
1 Answer Ladybug, If your freezer temperature is fine, and there is no ice or frost on the freezer back wall. and you can hear and feel the evaporator fan running. You will need to remove the grille from the rear console in the refrigerator compartment, and check to see if the "Auto Damper" door is stuck closed, and retarding the airflow to the refrigerator WP67003410, and that there is nothing blocking the air return tunnels in both corners of the floor of the refrigerator. Thanks, and Good Luck. Read More...
Don H. June 04, 2011 for Model Number ARB1914CC My freezer compartment ices up on the rear wall. Compressor and fan operate ok. What part do I need?
1 Answer Hello Don. You will need to test the heater WP67002135 and the defrost thermostat 12001937. They should read closed for continuity when cold. If they are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer WP67001036. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Todd April 23, 2011 for Model Number MBB1956GEQ I have a Maytag, bottom freezer, refrigerator. The freezer was icing up. I replaced 3 parts: the defrost heater, the thermastat and the defrost timer. When I plugged the refrigerator in, the lights came on, but not the compressor. The defrost timer hummed, but there was nothing else. I plugged the old defrost timer in and the compressor turned on as soon as I plugged the refrigerator in. Is the new defrost timer faulty, or is there a period of time that I need to give it to obtain normal function?? Thanks for your help, Todd
1 Answer Hello Todd. It may be in defrost cycle with the new timer. You can advance it manually, by turning the timer until the compressor comes on. Hope this helps. Read More...