Customer Questions and Answers for Defrost Timer (Refrigerator) by Whirlpool

Hello Jim, There are only three components in the defrost circuit if you don't count the wiring harness. They are the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat, and the defrost timer. The timer will remove the power from the compressor and other cooling parts of the unit and apply the power to the defrost circuit when it goes into the defrost cycle. This means that the 120Vac that was going towards the units' cooling is now being applied to the defrost heater to melt away the frost build-up that is normal on the evaporator coils. It is the defrost thermostats' job to prevent the heater from getting hot enough to thaw any food that is frozen in the freezer compartment. When the defrost thermostat reaches approximately 50°F, it opens the circuit so the voltage is no longer applied to the defrost heater. It is safer to test the components with a resistance meter with the unit unplugged from its' power supply. This way you can unplug one of the wires to prevent reading back through a neighboring circuit.The defrost thermostat should show 0O of resistance. This is a complete circuit as opposed to the "OL", (overload), which shows when there is no electrical continuity. The "OL" basically means that the meter cannot read the extremely large amount of resistance shown in the open circuit. The defrost heater, if good, will read a resistance. The amount of resistance is dependant on the particular circuit. It can range from 10O to 120O, so I just look for a reading without an initial after the readout. You can also pull the wiring diagram to get the specific resistance, but you still have to realize that since mankind is not perfect, there has to be a 10%± variance to the reading. As far as testing with a test light goes, this may tell you if voltage is present, but many problems in appliances are caused by voltage drops from shorted components. The test light doesn't tell you if the proper voltage is present and could delay the repair un-necessarily. If all of the components test good, the defrost heater should turn orange when energized if the defrost thermostat is below about 20°F. If it all tests out good, there will be an air leak at fault. This will almost always be found around the door seal, unless there is an ice through the door option on the unit. The ice door is a common source of an air leak.

Hello Joe, Either the defrost thermostat R0161088 is bad or the start device on the compressor has failed. If there is a frost build-up on the back wall of the freezer compartment, the defrost thermostat is the most likely cause. If there is no frost build-up, the compressor should be checked. It will vibrate if you put your hand on it if it is running. Sometimes, the condenser fan motor has to be unplugged to be able to tell if the compressor is running or not. If the compressor isn't running, remove the start relay WP10097202 from the side of the compressor and shake it. If it rattles, it has failed.

Hello Randy, You need to check the compressor to see if it is warm and running. If it is not running and is warm then you want to pull the relay off the side of the compressor. Shake the relay and see if it rattles. If it has a rattling sound then the relay WP67002527 needs to be replaced. If it does not rattle then reinstall and do an amp draw on the compressor. You should draw 7 to 8 amps at start. If you are getting above 8.5 amp draw then you have a bad compressor W10160407. You also want to check to make sure that the compressor is getting power. Go from the overload to the relay to make sure you are getting 120vac. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Dean, Once you have the panel and cover down, and access to the gear, you'll need to look closely and you should see that there is a longer segment on the gear(s) 67001037 and a matching slot in the belt WP67001040. These are your two alignment slots and if you're careful, you can remove the belt without issues. and the gears are "keyed" to fit the control shafts in one position. We'll be sending you some additional information that should be helpful. Thanks

Hello Mark. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Robert. You will open the doors and remove the two screws securing the bracket in the top of the unit. Then use a flat blade and start unsnapping the control panel from the top of the unit, starting with the front corners. These can be very tight, but do unsnap. Once the front and side are unsnapped, the back tabs will slide out of the top, and you can unplug the wires going to the controls. Now unsnap the inner tabs to access and replace the defrost timer WPW10503278. Hope this helps.

Hello Rat8043. Based on the information you provided, the unit has a restriction in the sealed system and will require a sealed system repair on the unit. This is not a defrost timer WP67001036 issue and needs a HVAC tech to repair the unit. Hope this helps.

Hello Scott. You can try turning the timer WP67001036 manually and see if the unit starts to run. If so, the timer is bad and needs to be replaced. If it does not start to run, you will need to check the temperature control WP67003000 and see if it is bad. Hope this helps.

Hi M.H. The defrost thermostat is needed. This part # is 12001937. The defrost timer is part # WP67001036. This part is located in the control area above the light diffuser. Thank you.

Hello Car Nut. Numbers 1 and 3 should read closed for continuity, or show Resistance. They should not be open. Also, test and see if 1 and 4 is closed at the same time as 1 and 2. If so, the motor winding, which is open, has shorted the timer WP67001036. If you disconnect the wire number 2 from the timer and put the unit in defrost, and it still kicks the breaker, the timer is the problem. If number 2 is disconnected and the unit does not kick the breaker in defrost, there is a short to ground. Hope this helps.