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Customer Questions and Answers for Timer by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18028944
Manufacturer Part Number: WP53-1810

The Timer is an OEM part for Whirlpool dryers. It controls the electrical components and the timing of the drying cycles, ensuring clothes are dried according to the selected settings. This timer manages the duration of each cycle, turning the dryer off when the cycle is complete.

Over time, the timer can fail due to wear and tear, electrical malfunctions, or internal component damage.  

Symptoms of a bad timer include:

  • The dryer not advancing through cycles
  • The dryer running for an unusually long time
  • The dryer not turning on or off at the appropriate times
  • Irregular or incomplete drying cycles

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Timer (Part Number: OEM18028944)

1 Answer

Coach, With the heater staying on when the timer is in the on position but the unit shut off would be a stuck centrifugal switch on the motor. This will require the motor to be replaced. Since the coils go off when the timer is in the off position then it would not be the timer that is the issue. The motor part number is W10410996.

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1 Answer

Hello Bill. Make sure the tub is not binding up and the vent is working properly. If so, you will need to replace the motor on the unit, it is bad.

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Al

My sister has crosley dryer that quit working I checked out the power all the leads had power to switch and timer. I held in the start switch and turn the timer to different settings and it would only start in the one setting and only when I banged on the dial of the timer. Do you think the timer is bad,-going bad ? The timer is on the left side facing the dryer and the start button is on the right side and that is all the dials on the panel. It is only about 1 yr old any help you can give would be appreciated. thanks.

1 Answer

Al, If when you bang on the timer the unit will come on then you will want to check the wiring to make sure that there are no loose connections. If this checks ok then replace the timer.

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1 Answer

Jerome, If you put the model in to look up parts there is a wiring diagram. Unfortunately we do not have a copy that we can send out. Here is how the wiring of timer should be Terminal color wire L black line voltage in H red to heat selector switch R Red to heater N White to Neutral in B White to Buzzer M Orange to motor S Purple to motor

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Sande for Model Number Maytag PYE2300AWY

Dryer stopped mid cycle, wasn't present, so I don't know if there was a noise or odor. When discovered, clothes weren't dry completely. When you turn the timer it clicks at the various settings, but when you push to start, it does NOTHING, no click, no hum, no nothing. We check the circuit breaker/ OK, the door switch seems to be OK, hose from the dryer to outside is also clear. I see in other Q&A you recommend checking the thermal fuse, we do have a meter an found the fuse. Exactly where on the fuse must it be tested? Can you suggest other possibilities for this problem?

1 Answer

Hello Sandy, When you disconnect the wires from the thermal fuse and test across the terminals on the fuse it should read closed. Any open fuse is bad. Also check your blower wheel to make sure that there is not excessive lint build up on it not allowing air to flow properly. Also check to make sure that the cycling and/or high limit thermostat are good.

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1 Answer

Hello Gary, If the timer fails the unit will not work, but it could also be a failed thermal fuse that could be causing problem. Using multi-meter you want to check for continuity of the thermal fuse. If you do not have continuity then you will need to replace thermal fuse LA-1053. If you do find the thermal fuse to be bad you will also want to check the venting from the blower wheel all the way to the outside of home for clogs. This is the most common reason for thermal fuse to blow. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hi Richard. The clicking you hear is the timer motor progressing the timer internal cams/contacts. If the dryer is not running then the usual part is the thermal fuse part # LA-1053. You use a putty knife on the inside front panel top corners clips to release the top and hinge it up. The thermal fuse is mounted on the rt. side of the heater chassis on two smaller white wires. First replace the red wires of the high limit on top of the heater on the new high limit and set it aside mounted to the limit mount. This keeps it out of the way so you can remove the heater part # LA-1044. Remove the 1/4" -1" long screw on the upper rt. heater area. Slide the heater to the lt. and up and out. This way you can inspect the heater coils for stretching or open coils. This allows you to lift the thermostat with the 2- white wires up and then cock the bottom mount tang so it will lift up and out along with the part inset into it. Replace the thermal fuse and all parts in the opposite reassembly procedure. All of this is caused by a couple of issues. If you heard a thumping, scratching sound then remove the front blower wheel part # W11497304 cover and see if the blower is worn loose on the motor shaft. Inspect the total vent run for restrictions allowing the heater to become white hot instead of red hot as it held in too much heat and moisture. Clean all lint build up on the outside vent cover/Flapper so it does not stay open and not operate properly. It will stay open and allow night moisture , rain or snow moisture to get inside the vent run and create a restriction. Plastic vents cause 20,000 house fires annually. Use rigid flex metal vent w/ no ribs and that alone will increase efficiency 25% as well. Thank You.

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