Samsung DD82-01373A Dishwasher Brake Case Assembly OEM Part

Here's what the problem was: Started the 'Normal' cycle... I closed the door... it calls for water, water fills, ECS sensor doesn't kick it to the next segment of the cycle (wash), so the water over-fills and reaches the over-fill sensor. So many other are replacing the plastic 'case-brake,' main board, and the ECS sensor. I, however, was able to get by with just the ECS sensor replacement, which is known to be a faulty design by Samsung, supposedly. The idea is replace the (1) most common known issue, which also happens to be (2) the cheapest of the three parts. Simple... simple... simple. CUT THE POWER TO THE UNIT. Breaker off! Tip the unit on its side. Remove the plastic leak-sensor pan (without unplugging the leak-sensor). The ECS sensor has a blue wire connected to it. Do a quarter-twist to remove the sensor from the assembly. KEEP THE RUBBER O-RING!! Put the new sensor in WITH THE OLD O-RING, and plug it up. Re-attach the leak-sensor pan. Situate the unit upright, and wash a load, ensuring its completion of a full cycle BEFORE you situate it in the cabinet space.

Dishwasher kept draining out and flashing light codes.I took it apart cleaned it out piece by piece and still the same problem. Researching online I found out it may be a bad case brake assembly so i replaced it. Dishwasher runs perfectly now. Samsung really need to do a recall on them because my dishwasher is only 2 years old and i have seen many complaints on this part specifically. Installation is easy and be sure to disconnect electric first.saved me a $250 service call

I removed the old brake assembly and inspected it. I suspected that the "water overlfow" sensor was bad, as the other sensor (some type of sensor on a "paddlewheel" was turning freely). Since both sensors are integrated into the brake assembly, they cannot be replaced and the whole brake assembly unit had to be replaced (poor engineering design from Samsung, as older units had the overflow sensor-a float sensor that could be cleaned out and was separate from the rest of the brake assembly). I put the new replacement brake assembly and tested it, however, I then got a leak sensor error, which was likely due to a little bit of water coming out of the hose during the replacement that went to the leak sensor on the bottom tray (only takes about 5 mL of water to trip it). I removed the dishwasher, flipped it on it's side, removed the bottom leak tray and dried out the sensor and tray. After re-assembling the tray and re-connecting the dishwasher-it worked just like new again with the replacement brake assembly! I should point out that Samsung does not give info on how to replace the brake assembly or dry out the leak sensor, I researched this on the internet. Honestly, I will NEVER buy another Samsung dishwasher! Fortunately, I am very competent at fixing things, and I was able to fix this one, thanks to AppliancePartsPros! I will definitely use your services again for appliance replacement parts! Your customer service is awesome!

I turn off breaker to shutoff electricity. I took out the 2 screws that was holding the washer under the counter to pull out the washer. Pull out far enough to get to the left side of washer (as you are looking at the front). Unscrew the 2 screws holding the medal plate protecting the Assy-Case part. You will need a pylier to squeeze the hose clamps to remove 4 hoses. disconnect the 2 connectors to the 2 sensors cable. Make sure you reach in side the washer and turn the cap 1/4 turn that is against the left inside wall. This is what is holding the part against the wall (save the rubber washer on the outside to put on your new part. Connect all the hoses to new part and connect the 2 sensor cables to washer. Attach the part with rubber washer you save to the wall and reach inside washer to put that cap back on with 1/4 turn. start a load and check for leak by the 4 hoses. I wipe with dry towel and then start a load. Once it is running let it finish and check for leaks. put metal plate back on to protect the new part and slide washer back into the space under counter and screw the 2 screws under the cabint to keep it in place

I am happy to tell you all that a new Assy-case break assembly fixed the problem. This gismo is located on the left side of the dish washer and one of it's jobs is to regulate the water level of your dish washer. There is a u-tube video which shows you step by step removal and re-installation. In retrospect I saw no need to disconnect the electrical wires from the dishwasher, nor the drainage hose. I had enough play with both to pull the dish washer out.Obviously cut your breaker. The installation was easy. Be careful by really making sure that the cap which attaches the case break to the dishwasher from the inside of the dishwasher is tight. Mine leaked a little when the washer was filling. I also moved the hose clamps to the outside if the case break which made it easier to clamp them together