Glw2800d1ws Parts

The blower wheel center was worn down and spinning freely on shaft. Removing front covers, controls and brackets gave access to blower, which front half came off removing screws. (One screw underneath bracket) Pushed new blower on. (It's keyed and has small tabs that line up with groove on shaft). Installed clamp, reassembled and tested. Don't forget to pull the plug out before working on any appliance. Read more

Removing and Replacing (R&R) the parts took about 15 minutes. Getting the correct parts took several weeks. It was a severe struggle. Many of you will experience problems trying to get the correct "Lid" for similar GE washing machine models. AppliancePartsPros.com was great: Right price, Arrived quickly in good condition. I got the wrong part. It was not the fault of AppliancePartsPros.com, though. To make a long story short, GE has disseminated incorrect data in parts lists and it... Read more

Motor control board was flashing 4 times, indicating that the mode shifter had an error. I disconnected the mode shifter's wire from the controller and measured the resistance between the 2 leads with an ohmmeter. Since the reading was infinite, that meant that the mode shifter coil or in-line thermal sensor was electrically open, i.e. bad. As this fix is near a complete tear-down of the washing machine, here are a few tips I discovered. 1) the hub nut is difficult to remove and you need a... Read more

My son fixed it Read more

I found your site which was most helpful. I saw on your forum, that others had replaced a motor & capacitor with + results. I was willing to spend what I thought was a reasonable amount & your guarantee was the clincher. I knew that if I called the appliance store where we had purchased the washer in 1998, it would be very expensive & even more important, it would take many days as they would have to order the part & then schedule a service call. I installed the motor & capacitor & was... Read more

After watching YouTube videos on possible cause, went to appliancepartspros and order seal and leveling legs since the had been missing since machne was given to us. Parts came in within the week and replaced . No more leaks!! Read more

Myself and help from friends. Read more

Replaced the shaft & mode shifter assembly. Also replaced the pulley as it had taken some damage from the wobbling clutch dog. And replaced the tub seal since it's normally inaccessible with the shaft in place. This is an advanced repair that took a lot of time. Removing the tub nut took a 1 11/16" socket and a 700 ft-lb impact wrench and I had to hammer on the nut for several minutes to break it free of the tub. Disassembly of the washer is complete, and requires a lot of space for... Read more

Unscrewed the front lower panel ( 2 screws ). Disconnected the pump hose clamp and removed the hose. I loosened the lower back panel and pulled out the drained hose from the rear. Replaced with new hose put back clamp and panels. Very easy Read more

I have a 14 year old GE washing machine that had been making a lot of noise while running but had eventually just stopped flat. The agitator and spin cycle would not run. I found this site and made excellent use of all the repair videos to study about my issue. I put in my machine model number and I Immediately was able to start honing in on what my problem could be from website advice about popular repair parts, stories others had shared about their similar machine issues and watching videos,... Read more

I took the easy fix first and replaced the Capacitor. That got me three loads before the motor burned out. I ordered the motor from AppliancePartsPros.com after a google search for "best price model # 134159500 Drive motor " The part arrived in 5 days, and it took about 15 minutes to remove the old motor and replace it with the new one. Simple and easy. four screws, four nuts, and two electrical connections. — The hardest step was one of the four mounting screws was way back inside and it took... Read more

Simply open the top of the washer by inserting a putty knife (watch YouTube ) and then the front panel by removing two bottom philips head screws on the front. The whole front panel comes right off. Using pliers the spring clams holding each hose, they come off and each hose is replaced. The drain one was only leaking but since it has open I changed both and even the drive belt. Whole job less than 1 hour. BTW parts arrived next day! Read more

The seal at the bottom of the tub had started to fail. On large loads water would leak so I ordered a new one rubber seal. Getting the trunnion off the transmission shaft was hard as it was calcified and corroded. I used a wire brush to get some of it off and then used a lot of WD-40. The bolt holding the trunnion plate on sheared off when I tried to remove it on one side and the other came out ok (the bolt hole through the trunnion is not threaded so it should slide out once the plate is off... Read more

The screw that holds the agitator in place appeared to have worn and rusty threads. I tried to replace it with a standard hardware store 1/4-20 hex head screw but that wouldn't grip. I had thoughts of needing to tap the hole,but eventually bought the specified screw, which is a specialist. It has tapered threads, a shoulder, rubber bushings, an attached washer and a hex head. I spent a lot of time trying other things but when the real part arrived it only took a few minutes to set it in place. ... Read more

Replaced control board and motor inverter assembly. The hardest part was reinstalling the washer belt . Their is a tool but hopefully I will never have to do this again. Read more

Replaced the top cover which came with a new gasket. Easy to fix and works good. Saved me from buying a new machine. Read more