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Mounting screw used to secure panels, trim, brackets, and small appliance components. Replace a missing or damaged fastener to restore proper fit, reduce vibration, and keep parts aligned for safe operation. What it does:
New parts did the trick. Very easy to replace. Did not need to replace the base agitator, the fabric dispenser, or the screw; but, while it was apart it was simple to do. Read more
Usually ships within 4 - 14 days
White decorative bezel that surrounds the timer control on your washer's console. Replaces cracked, broken, or missing skirts for a clean finish.
First I used epoxy which I do not recommend since it can interfere with the later replacement of new knobs. The replacement of new knobs went easily with the exception of getting the epoxy off. Getting the epoxy off is difficult and required a Dremel to cut the plastic and slip joint pliers to peel the plastic off. Read more
This is a top cabinet hinge used on a washing machine. It connects the top panel to the washer cabinet, allowing the panel to pivot open for access to internal components. Replace this hinge if it is bent, broken, or corroded, or if the top panel no longer opens, closes, or sits flush properly.
Size: 1.25OD x .530IDX.
Drive motor isolator.
Fixes squealing or slow stopping at end of spin cycle. This spring maintains brake tension so the basket stops promptly. DIY repair takes about 1 hour.
I replaced the: brake stator, rotor, and snubber ring. I did need to remove the stator which allowed the spring to decompress. I used 2 C-clamps to control the force when it was removed. To re-secure all the components I stood on the stator to compress the 200lbs spring until the screws could take the load safely. The entire thing took about an hour to slowly go through everything. Read more
My husband went on line to see how difficult it would be to change the Timer, than he ordered the part from Appliance Parts Pros.com and within 2 days I was back washing clothes. Like the saying goes,"If mama isn't happy,nobody happy" :) :) Read more
Includes leg, foot pad and locknut.
1.) Made sure BOTH Hot & Cold Water Lines turned off to Maytag Washer. (I have dual shut-off valve for those two water lines), 2.) Briefly ran Washer on Warm Water Setting, removing water pressure & remaining water from Hot & Cold water lines. 3.) Unplugged Washing Machine. 4.) Used Needle Nose Pliers to remove BOTH Hot & Cold Water hoses from the hookup on the back of the washer. 3.) Made sure I had an empty bucket, on hand, to catch remaining water that may come out of now-removed, hot &... Read more
I figured it had to be the flume; changed the flume and hose, mounting screws Read more
Fix a washer that won't stop filling or has water level issues. This pressure switch hose connects the tub to the control switch. Easy 15-minute repair.
Unplugged washer and called for a water truck to pump out basement, 2 feet of water. Read more
I had a lot of problems removing the spin hub, I had to use an air impact wrench to un screw it even then it was very hard, it did not go easy with the hammer & pipe wrench as shown in the video. It was also very hard to remove the bottom spin bearing I had to cut the bearing retainer with a dremel tool so I could get my puller on it. After I struggled to get it apart The repair went very easy, I used brake spring pliers to remove the springs it worked like a charm. I am very pleased with... Read more
Washer won't spin or agitate? This lid switch assembly senses when the lid is closed, enabling spin cycles. Moderate DIY repair restores safe operation.
Replaced entire switch assembly Read more
Seals the basket to center shaft, preventing leaks and reducing noise. Replace if leaking between tub and transmission. Confirm fit with your model.
Replaced all seals, unfortunately it is still leaking. I can see where it is leaking from. I am going to tear it back down use some ultra grey gasket maker and reinstall tub gasket. Hoping that works. If it still leaks I will be using the washer as a large paper weight. Read more
This assembly supports the wash tub rotation and creates a watertight seal to prevent leaks into the motor area. Located at the bottom rear of the tub, replacement is needed when you hear loud grinding noises during spin cycles or notice water under the washer.