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Some parts shown may not be for your model. To see parts for your model only, select it from "Matching Model Numbers" list on the left.
The Drain Hose is an OEM part for GE washing machines. It is specifically designed to channel used water out of the washer and into the household drainage system.
Causes of a bad drain hose can include physical damage from movement or installation, clogging from lint and debris, or degradation of the hose material over time, leading to leaks and inefficiency.
Symptoms of a bad Drain Hose include:
This OEM GE part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.
I did it Read more
We had a power surge that tripped the washer breaker. It showed an E23 error code so I replaced the main control board (part number AP4362398.) All washer activity back to normal except it still wouldn't spin and still had E23 code. I removed the tub to pump hose (part number AP3837322) to find all sorts of goodies inside such as underwires from bras, a quarter, nickel, penny, and dime stacked perfectly on top of each other inside the filter, and tangled yarn from a rug. Ended up replacing the... Read more
This genuine OEM part is a drive motor for washers. The drive motor is the main engine that drives the washer tub allowing it to rotate and wash clothes effectively. If the washer is no longer spinning or the power has significantly decreased, it might be a sign that the drive motor needs to be replaced. Luckily, replacing this part is a relatively simple repair.To replace the drive motor, start by unplugging the washer. Once unplugged, move the washer away from the wall to gain access to the back panel. Uninstall the back panel by removing the screws that attach it. After removal, locate the drive motor and proceed to unthread the mounting screws holding it to the washer. Proceed to pull the old motor out of its place and install the new motor by threading the screws that secure it. This replacement part is sold individually and is compatible with GE, RCA, and Hotpoint brand washers.
New motor. The motor was ok, but the control board mounted on the motor wasn't. Can't buy to control board separate from the motor. Easy to replace the motor, but not so easy to troubleshoot to make sure the problem was the motor and not something else. Read more
This OEM replacement part is a drive motor for washers. The drive motor is the main engine that propels the washer tub to spin and perform its primary function of washing clothes. Over time, a drive motor can lose power or stop working altogether due to excessive wear and tear. If the washer is no longer spinning or not working as efficiently as it once did, the drive motor will need to be replaced. Thankfully, replacing this part is a relatively easy fix.To begin, start by unplugging the washer. Once unplugged, move the washer away from the wall to gain access to the back panel. Uninstall the back panel by removing the mounting screws. Once removed, gain access to the drive motor and remove the screws that attach it to the washer. After unthreading the screws, pull the drive motor out of its place and position the new motor in its original position. Fasten the mounting screws and make sure the motor is securely attached. This genuine replacement part is sold individually and is compatible with Frigidaire, Electrolux, Gibson, Kelvinator, Westinghouse, and Sears/Kenmore brand washers.
Unplug washer then took back panel off. Unplug wires from motor then removed four screws from the motor housing then took old motor off and replaced it with new motor Read more
Outer tub cover that snaps over the washer's outer tub assembly. Replace if cracked, broken, or missing to restore proper clearance and protection.
I had to remove the front panel of the washing machine and top of the washing machine. i started by removing all the top screws as shown in one of videos. disconnected all the electrical wires (i have a commercial washer) and lifted the front panel over the back of the machine. i was then able to remove the top of the washing machine to give me access to the tub straps and the corresponding screws. i removed the broken straps and then was able to remove the tub cover by pushing down it down... Read more
Replaced pump motor and pressure switch Read more
Fix loud banging, grinding noises, or oil leaks during spin with this inner tub assembly. Includes spider and shaft. Advanced repair, 2-4 hours.
The biggest challenge was replacing the inner tub assembly (with spider and shaft) without full access to the top of the washer, only to the back. Due to space limitations, the matching stacking gas dryer could not be removed: it could only be elevated (using wood blocks) about 4 inches above the top of the washer. Removing the washer's hoses, motor, control panel, and rear weight, and releasing the shock absorbers, was fairly easy. But supporting the outer tub assembly, with its front-end... Read more
Outer door panel that replaces a damaged or worn outer door surface, restoring the appliance's finished exterior and protecting inner door components. Ideal when the exterior is dented, scratched, or cosmetically damaged. What it does
Purchased the door panels (both sides) and replaced them both. Not sure if spending $150 on door parts for a 15 year old washer was a great investment, but the parts worked great. Took maybe five minutes to put it all back together. Read more
Includes bearing and seal. Bearing is not available separately.
Replaced outer tub assembly shell. AppliancePartsPros Video was outstanding and easy to follow. Removed outer shell prior to ordering replacement. Took about 2-3 hours off and on (ie. washer and dryer were stacked and I was working in a confined space). A lot of time was spent in cleaning up the washer, spyder etc. prior to installation. Washer originally purched December 1997 so it had accumulated lots of dust, dirt, lint. Ordered shell Jan 9th 5:27AM and received it Jan 10th 2:30PM. (For... Read more
If your washer won't start or stops mid-cycle, this lid switch assembly detects lid closure to restore safety interlock. DIY-friendly, installs in 15 minutes.
I went on line and found out that the problem could be the lid switch.You tube gave you step by step instruction on how to change the lid switch.I am mechanicially handy.I order the switch from appliance parts pro.the switch was exactly what I ordered .The switch was in my hands in two days.Merry Christmas to all the help at Appliance Pros Read more
This shipping bar was installed during appliance transport to secure moving parts and prevent damage. It should be removed before first use to allow proper operation of your washer's door mechanism. Remove this bar if your washer door won't open properly or if you hear rattling noises during operation.
This is a genuine OEM timer that can be used with different models of washers and has been manufactured by Frigidaire. This part has been sourced directly from the manufacturer to ensure the highest possible quality.This timer is critical for the dryer to run properly as it controls the electrical components to enable the correct duration of the washing machine's cycles. If the timer is broken, the washing machine may not run for the intended amount of time or, in some cases, might not function at all. In such instances, the timer will need to be immediately replaced. The appliance will need to be completely disconnected from all power and water sources before repairs are undergone and work gloves should be worn to prevent injury.This timer is sold individually and is manufactured from high-quality, durable, non-corrosive materials. It is an authentic replacement part and compatible with a variety of models of washing machines that have been made by Frigidaire, Electrolux, Gibson, and Kelvinator.
I couldn't figure out how to remove the original timer, but found a YouTube video from someone who had the same problem and finally figured out the easy step for removing the original timer (the timer knob is threaded and is removed by unscrewing the timer knob itself whereas the other knobs just pull off). The new timer was specifically for this machine, arrived quickly, and installed easily. The only problem I had was the threaded mounting holes were a different size from the originals and I... Read more
I removed and inspected the lid magnet. It had a 1/8" layer of corrosion. I removed the layer of corrosion and reinstalled the part. the symptom improved. That was a stop-gap repair until the new lid magnet arrived. The broken rubber isolators were discovered when I removed the top of the washing machine. Read more
The lady that talked to Fred gave him great help. She told him how to take the front off to replace the part. It only took a couple of minutes to do the repair. Even though I work for Sears parts dept. he didn't think I knew what I was doing.. Read more
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