Flame Sensor Parts

Viewed the video before I purchased the part. Received the part and put it in. Everything went as planned. Read more

My Electrolux Frigidaire Gas Dryer stopped working and I got an error code E66 that the thermal limiter blew from over heating. The E66 code stops displaying after the initial code and you will then get a door open message. I replaced the thermal limiter and the thermostat just to be sure which part at the problem. The job is hard because you have to take apart the entire dryer and remove the drum. Would be a tough project to complete on your own. Read more

The part I ordered fixed my problem Read more

Tested the old t-stat with ohm meter. When shaken, the contacts would open. Replaced it with new t-stat and it works fine now. Thanks! Read more

• Won't start
• No heat or not enough heat

Did some dryer repair research (dryer not heating) on the internet. Bought an ohm meter, opened up the dryer and tested the cut-off-T, high limit thermostat, dryer igniter, flame sensor, cycling thermostat for continuity. The igniter was bad, the other parts tested ok. Went online to AppliancePartsPros.com searched for a new igniter for my specific dryer model, found the right replacement igniter and watched the video on how to replace the igniter. Because my dryer is old (15+ years) and I... Read more

Out with the old. In with the new. No problem. Dryers are simple and usually can be fixed quickly. appliance pros makes it easier with their tutorial videos and fast shipping! Read more

Replaced main board. The defrost heater and thermostat. Read more

• Doesn't shut off

Looked online. Others said to start with the thermostat because its cheap and easy to fix, so I did. The thermostat is located at the rear of the oven on the back. You need to remove a total of 3 panels to get to it. Do not confuse it with the thermal sensor at the rear of the oven on top. My thermostat was clearly deformed, and I had never run a self clean like other with testify to. Simply replace it - easy. Oven worked like new. Read more

So I replaced the hi-temp thermostat and the problem is fixed. Read more

Used video and took apart dru, this was extremely helpful. I bypassed the belt and door switch. Tested gas valves (gas disconnected) with multimeter. Found that the igniter worked the first gas valve, but the second gas valve would not open and the igniter would stay on. Found a flow chart online that shows the flame detect turns on causing the gas to turn on and shuts off the igniter. I replaced it and tested again. Igniter turns on, shuts off, then power to the second gas valve turns... Read more

Replaced fuse. It took much longer to get the oven out of the wall to access the fuse and replace the front panel than to do the repair. This fuse failed at the end of the cleaning cycle for the bottom oven and left the door locked because the open fuse removed the 120v power from the control board. The locked door made it impossible to remove one of the screws holding the wall oven in place. However, after I ground off the head of the screw behind the edge of the locked door I was able to... Read more

Checked vent first to see if there was a blockage. Removed top, front and drum of dryer. Replaced all sensors including flame detection and gas valve coils. Re-assembled and tested. Dryer was now heating Read more

Replaced the thermst-fix and the thermal fuse oven now works great Read more

This is a 15 yr old Kenmore (GE) refrigerator with top mounted freezer... I knew, for awhile, that I had a DEFROST problem. That was causing water to collect on the inside bottom of the fridge, under the veg./fruit bins. And then occasionally run out onto the kitchen floor if I didn't sop up the water inside. But I delayed the repair because of the hassle of emptying the food, top and bottom, and finding temporary homes for it all. Until I noticed 3 things happen in short order. 1)The water... Read more