Whirlpool 4392065 Dryer Repair Kit (Most 29 Inch Large Capacity Models) OEM Part

I was out of the country when the damage occurred but based on my wife's description I knew what had happened. Upon returning to the 1st World, i verified a totally free-spinning drum and ordered a full rebuild kit (rollers, belt & idler). The instruction video was very helpful - especially in listing every single tool needed so i only made one trip to the workshop and brought up exactly what i needed, the first time. Everything went pretty much according to the instructions except that holding the drum in place while retrieving and installing the front panel wasn't so seamless. Also, getting the belt around the tensioner and onto the motor pulley required more effort than anticipated - wished the tensioner has a hold-down screw just to keep it in place during assembly. The top lid fell closed a couple of times (mostly due to my constricted laundry room environment) and the drum needed to be held tightly against/over the rear felts (one hand) while the rather sharp, awkward and heavy front panel was positioned and pulled up (two hands). If you're counting that's three hands so i had to enlist the help of a support block (paint stirring stick) until i was ready to make the final fit-up). With the front on and top still open I rotated the drum to kick out the support and then bumped the machine over to watch it go round and round. Secured the lid and promptly did the six loads of laundry that had piled up. Very glad i dd the whole kit as i discovered that the in-situ tensioner was a sliding-type, not a roller. I see this design lasting longer.

Conducted numerous searches online for obvious indicators as to which part would likely be the issue causing the loud noise. Between YouTube and a couple of other sources, the consensus seems to be the drum rollers are the most likely source but there could be a slight chance the noise may be emanating from the idler pulley or tensioner arm. This led me to this repair kit. It is well worth it for the price and time vested opening up and doing the repairs to the machine myself...now I have managed to update and refurb my machine to which I hope will keep it up and running for many years to come. Follow the repair videos instructions by this site to get in there safely and conduct your repairs. Couple of notes - I don't recommend pushing the metal retaining clip/washer in with a screwdriver as you can see in their repair video it bent...try using a socket head to push it in smoothly and evenly. Have a shop vac ready for all the dust hair and lint you are about to encounter. Also note the amount of hair and dust on the roller's clips in the repair video (I had twice that amount knotted around the roller arms and clips)...THIS IS LIKELY THE MAIN REASON FOR ALL THE HIGH FREQUENCY RUBBING AND NOISE I HAD IN MY MACHINE...UGHH what a mess. **You will need an extra set of hands to put the drum back in with the belt on it. Disassembly and reassembly can mostly be done by one person but to align the drum during the reinstall GET MORE HANDS TO HELP. Definitely know better for future maintenance to pull apart the machine and clean out those rollers and tensioner arms every few years to keep them going and lasting a lot longer.

Utilized dryer part number to find parts on AppliancePartsPros.com. They had a button for symptoms of noise and identified a dryer repair kit, The accompanying video which explained how to make the repair made it seem easy to do myself, I ordered the repair kit and it arrived quickly (3 days later). I watched the repair video again and then set out to perform the repair. The Disassembly of the dryer was just as depicted in the video. For me, however, my dryer was located in a much smaller space and it was a bit of a struggle to remove the drum assembly having to get down on the floor to effect the release of the drive belt. I also found the front panel to be heavier than expected. This became a problem during reassembly. Parts replacement was simple and straightforward and coincided with the video. My dryer was slightly different in that I did not have a heat shield that I had to remove and reinstall. This made my repair more simple. I did struggle with reassembly. The video did not depict a helper and the worker in the video I am guessing had multiple training attempts to perfect their actions before the final filming. Getting the drum back in place and holding it in place while reinstalling the front panel was a difficult task. It took several attempts before I was able to complete that portion of the task. The final reassembly after that was simple as depicted. The final result was a successful repair. The dryer ran noiselessly and now performs as expected. The parts supplied were proper replacements. The cost of the project was much less than bringing in a repairman. I am a happy camper.

The thermal fuse burned out 2 times - this little guy is on the blower duct right where the blower pushes air out of the drum and into the exhaust duct. It cuts power to the Motor but NOT to the Heating Element! First time I cleaned out the inside of the dryer cabinet and vent duct from dryer all the way to louvers through wall (I used a shop vac but you can buy a brush/flexible line kit online that you spin with your drill). Also cleaned out the lint trap duct (mine goes from the top lid of dryer down the back to the blower fan, 4 screws to take it off and it was 50% clogged with 15 years of debris!). Thought that fixed it, dryer worked fine for 4-5 loads, then thermal fuse blew again, normal sized loads, no breaker trips or anything unusual. Further investigation proved my Cycling Thermostat (on the blower duct near the Thermal Fuse) and Hi Limit Thermostat (on the Heating Element where power wires connect) were good - multimeter showed continuity at room temperature, heated 'em on stove and heard em click open, continuity was lost at high temperature - this is how they are supposed to work, turns heater on when closed/has continuity, turns heater off when open/no continuity (Cycling Thermostat keeps it 120-160* or so, allows and cuts power to the Heating Element. The Thermal Fuse is a backup in case the Cycling Thermostat sticks closed/keeps heater on forever - it blows when the blower/exhaust duct air reaches about 196*. The Hi Limit Thermostat is on the Heating element itself and is a failsafe that is supposed to cut power to the heater if the heater reaches about 250*). Multimeter also showed my Thermal Cutout had continuity (this is a fuse above the Heating Element near where the heating duct goes into the drum, it blows at 309* as a backup to the Hi Limit Thermostat, in case the Hi Limit thermostat is stuck closed/keeping heater on forever). I took the Heating Element out, and had to yank it really hard, bending the uppermost heating coil in the process. On closer inspection, I found a tiny 1mm arc electrical burn mark and scratch on the inside of the heating duct and on the coil - they had fused, and me yanking really hard broke it free and scratched the duct. The arc burn mark was about the size of a pen tip and would have been invisible without a bright light. This must have created a short circuit, bypassing the Cycling Thermostat on the blower exhaust duct (opens around 160*) and blowing the Thermal Fuse on the blower exhaust duct (blows around 196*). I assume if we had not noticed the drum not turning, eventually the Heating Element would have gotten above 250* and maybe activated the Hi Limit Thermostat (or maybe bypassing it cuz it was arcing and grounding out) and blown the Thermal Cutoff fuse at 309*? Anyway I believe the root cause was the old Heating Element warping over time, and the coil grounding out against the Heater Element case, causing the heater to stay on by bypassing the Cycling Thermostat. I replaced the Heating Element, and since I had it apart and the parts were cheaper than a technician's service call, I replaced the old Cycling Thermostat, Hi Limit Thermostat, Thermal Fuse, and Thermal Cutoff fuse with brand new ones. Also replaced the drum belt/rollers/tension spring since I had the machine torn apart and the parts were cheap (one roller did not spin freely, and enough resistance might burn out the expensive motor in the future). After replacing parts, I checked current to the motor and heating element with clamp meter, got what I expected, about 5 Amps on the motor with drum+belt removed, about 24 Amps when the heating element was on, 0 Amps when the heating element was turned off by the Cycling Thermostat. Realistically, the project took me 2-4 hours of troubleshooting, hopefully my lengthy description helps someone else save hours of time troubleshooting. Heater, 2 thermostats, and 2 fuses took about 15 minutes to replace. Belt, rollers, and tension pulley another 15 minutes.

I am a 63 year old woman. My 18 year old dryer started making awful noises, so I looked up on the internet and found a video that identified the problem by the kind of noise it was making. I took the dryer apart and found that, sure enough, one of the drum support rollers was shot. I found the part on your web site, then consulted with one of your representatives about what else I should replace while I had the dryer broken down, and he suggested the repair kit. I replaced the drum support rollers, idler pulley and belt. I took photos of the dryer taken apart and again after I put it back together and put it up on FaceBook. My post received 78 likes and 38 comments almost immediately. My friends were very impressed that I could do this. It was really not very hard since the videos made it all very clear and the machine is basically very simple. Hopefully I have inspired some other women to not be afraid to try to fix things themselves! My entire repair cost around $40. I know an appliance repairman would not even walk in my front door for that. Thanks!