Whirlpool WPW10185286 Surface Element Infinite Switch (Top Burner Control) OEM Part

So I ordered the burner and Ithe switch because I wasn't sure what part was defective. I pulled the oven out and I removed the 6 1/4 inch screws on each side of the glass top as well as the 2 Phillips head screws on the back, removing the 2 1/4 screws on the shield on the back gIves you easier access to them, then lifted the glass top up on the front to access the switch and burners. Make sure you turn the power off before beginning this process. When lifted up the wires connected to the burners can be seen and are easily unplugged so that you can remove the top completely. Careful not to Crack the glass by laying the top up side down on a smooth surface, I laid mine on the carpeted floor. Just switched the burner out with the new one, pay attention to the wires and where they go, take a picture of it will help if you have never repaired anything like this before, some wires are held in place by wire loops and you will have to remove those also. Look at the numbers on the burner and you will notice that there are no holes on the new burner for the retainers so you will simply located them to the same numbers and use the removed screw to force down mildly as you turn the screw and it will self Tapp itself as you turn it. .don't over tighten. Replace wires. Remove screws from burner and from mount holes in the top to make this simpler. That's it for the burner , now if it is the switch, pull the know of and remove the 2 mounting screws then wiggle the blue and the white plugs to get them out replace the switch and use the same screws to secure it ,don't overror tighten. Then put the white plug and the blue plug back into the switch pressing in and rocking the plug slightly till they are completely tight. That's it for the repair just reinstall the top and you're done. You may want to turn the power back on to check the repair before securing the top. GOOD LUCK!!

The dual burner on our cooktop stopped heating, although the fan would start when I turned the switch on. At first, when I realized that to access the burner would involve disconnecting the cooktop from the junction box and removing it from the counter, I decided to call a local repair shop, only to be told that the repair would be in the hundreds of dollars, and I would be better off buying a brand new cooktop. That was sufficient incentive to pull out my tools and get to work. To remove the unit, I (1) shut off power at the circuit breaker, (2) opened the electrical junction box and disconnected the wires leading to the cooktop, (3) removed the conduit from the junction box, and lifted the unit from the counter top and placed it on a carpet where I could manipulate the unit without scratching the ceramic/glass top. At this point, I (4) removed the 12 (3 on each side) screws securing the cooktop from the base, plus the 4 screws holding the conduit in place, and lifted the cooktop up from the base, up enough to reach a quick-connect tying the leads from the fan at the base to wires leading to the switch panel on the cooktop. Once I (5) disconnected the fan leads, I was able to finally have full access to the back side of the cooktop, and then get around to testing the switches and the burner elements. Using an ohm-meter, I verified that the problem was this switch, and not any of the burner elements, consistent with other online reports about cooktop failures like this. At this point, I ordered the replacement part from AppliancePartsPros, reassembled the unit (so I could continue to cook with the remaining working elements), and after waiting all of just 2 days, I got the part in. I then repeated the cooktop disassembly above, to get to the switch panel, which is secured by 4 screws, top and bottom. (6) Removing the switch panel from the cooktop, I was able to finally access the two screws holding the broken switch. I replaced the switch, reassembled everything, and voila, I had heat on all burners once again.

The front right dual burner did not heat or light on the switch when the knob was activated. After research we determined it was either the switch or the heating element. Hoping it was the element, we ordered the part through Appliance Parts Pros and it came in as advertised and on time. Fortunately it was only the switch, which is about a third of the cost of the element. Replacement was very easy. I found a video showing a similar replacement to confirm the procedure and had the switch replaced in under 10 minutes.

Once the oven was powered off and pulled out from the counter top about 6-8 inches, the 6 screws were removed from the control panel (4 underneath and 1 on each side). The control panel was gently pulled forward. I took several pictures of the multiple wire harness connections and then determined the best way to disconnect them. After all wiring was disconnected, the new switch was mounted in place. Next, the 3 other old switches were transferred to the new control panel. Then all of the red light tabs and the right sided burner flip switch were removed and installed on the new control panel. These parts were very delicate so great care was taken not to damage them during the de-installation from the old control panel. Last, the old circuit board was removed and re-installed in the new control panel and all wiring harnesses were connected. The 6 screws were then installed in the new control panel and power was turned back on to confirm that all functions were now in working order poor to sliding the stove back into place on the countertop.

I ordered a new burner and switch. Received all parts in only one day. Shut breaker, pulled out the range to work on it. Removed the front panel to replace the switch first which was the easy part of the job, only 6 screws. Installed new switch, turned on the breaker to test and found that the burner heated up proving that only the switch was bad. Shut breaker again, reinstalled front panel, reinstalled the range and turned the breaker back on. Just in time for Easter dinner! Returning unused new burner to Appliance Parts Pros.