Ge WD1X1467 Vent Pad (Dishwasher Door Vent) OEM Part

I took the inside plate off door. Removed old gasket. Broke styrofoam vent buffernbecause I grabbed it in the wrong place. Ordered both a gasket and vent buffer from your company. It came in 2 days as promised. I had to empty dishwasher of about 2-3 inches of water as with the door apart and knowing it would leak I had to shut off electric supply and hand empty machine first cup by cup and then towel by towel. (Towel method worked well). Then I took a blow dryers to the inside of dishwasher, to the floor and the inner door buffers as I didn't want any mud tor mold tonfork. I accidentally lost my balance while blow drying the buffers on the inner door and burnt a hole right on the smaller pad. I became McGyver and filled hole with heavy string and secured with electric tape as I was confident this was a sound buffer and was not vital to replace and attain usable function of dishwasher. After watching multiple You Tube videos, I then again took off old gasket to inner door and put in the new gasket. I replaced vent buffer. Remounted the inner door part. Note that the open/close lever handle needs to fit throufh hole of the bottom of front door before door parts will align. You also need to remember or in my case look up which size screws go where. Then I remounted front floor panels under door. Also need to remember or look up which size screws go where. Honestly the hardest parts were emptying machine of water and remounting floor panels as you needed to recall that larger too part mounts over smaller part touching the loot to get parts to align with screw holes. But I was pretty proud to fix on my own for < $80 rather than paying s technician to come out. I know I would have paid at least $150!for him to repair it or may have bought a new dishwasher. I then laundered all towels. Eventually when I have more I will replace electrical tape securing inner door buffer with duct tape.

ALWAYS REMOVE THE APPLIANCE FROM POWER SOURCE BEFORE WORKING ON IT! [Timer Part No. 904] Note that I re-used the CAM TIMER Part 853, which is attached to the Timer; I inspected it before ordering parts and it seemed in good shape.. [Vent Pad Part No. 820 - this styrofoam part broke when I separated the inner/outer door panels making it difficult to understand where it fits; pay attention to this when you separate the door panels so that you can understand where it fits - I would buy this and have it handy for any time the door panels must be separated as it is easily broken]. Replace the timer. 7 screws to remove the inner door panel... 2 screws to remove the timer... There is a "Timer Cover", a flimsy piece of plastic [Part No. 896 - I did not need a new one] that needs to be let loose from the timer; it is held in place by a plastic friction push pin: pry/wiggle it out with needle nose pliers, try to grasp it as close to the timer body as possible to avoid breaking it (mine came out but if broken probably can find a replacement at a hardware store). The timer has three electric connections: (1) one push-on green ground wire attached to the timer body. (2) The Timer Motor has a plastic shroud attached to the motor that the connector snaps into - carefully pry the shroud up and slip the connector out. (3) A push-in 12-"pin" connector has a release, somewhat hidden, on the lower end of it. OUT OF SEQUENCE: the (timer) knob on the outer door panel face simply pulls out - pull the knob off before separating the inner/outer door panels. ALSO OUT OF SEQUENCE: the door latch assembly has a plastic knob on it; the knob is held on by one small phillips screw which is accessed at the bottom of the knob - it is hidden in an access hole in the bottom of the knob. HAPPY! HAPPY! JOY! JOY1

I removed the inside panel of door with a screwdriver. Putting in the vent pad itself required no tools whatsoever. At first I wasn't quite sure how it was supposed to be placed in there, but it turns out that the pad is custom cut to fit into the very small grooves at the edge of the inside panel cover. Although I am still unsure as to the vent pad's actual purpose.

Watched video on replacing the pump seal and impeller kit. I wanted to see if something was restricting the impeller. I did not have a leak but I figured if I took it apart to hopefully free up a restriction I should install a new kit. Fortunately it did the trick and watching the video made the job go smoothly. To replace the motor and pump assembly would cost half the price of a new machine. I fixed it for less than $30.

Replaced with complete GE Pump and motor assembly. Also installed these other items, ( Piston & nut assembly, Valve,check and vent pad)