How to Troubleshoot & Replace Ge AP2038428 / WD1X1467 Vent Pad (Dishwasher Door Vent)

ALWAYS REMOVE THE APPLIANCE FROM POWER SOURCE BEFORE WORKING ON IT! [Timer Part No. 904] Note that I re-used the CAM TIMER Part 853, which is attached to the Timer; I inspected it before ordering parts and it seemed in good shape.. [Vent Pad Part No. 820 - this styrofoam part broke when I separated the inner/outer door panels making it difficult to understand where it fits; pay attention to this when you separate the door panels so that you can understand where it fits - I would buy this and have it handy for any time the door panels must be separated as it is easily broken]. Replace the timer. 7 screws to remove the inner door panel... 2 screws to remove the timer... There is a "Timer Cover", a flimsy piece of plastic [Part No. 896 - I did not need a new one] that needs to be let loose from the timer; it is held in place by a plastic friction push pin: pry/wiggle it out with needle nose pliers, try to grasp it as close to the timer body as possible to avoid breaking it (mine came out but if broken probably can find a replacement at a hardware store). The timer has three electric connections: (1) one push-on green ground wire attached to the timer body. (2) The Timer Motor has a plastic shroud attached to the motor that the connector snaps into - carefully pry the shroud up and slip the connector out. (3) A push-in 12-"pin" connector has a release, somewhat hidden, on the lower end of it. OUT OF SEQUENCE: the (timer) knob on the outer door panel face simply pulls out - pull the knob off before separating the inner/outer door panels. ALSO OUT OF SEQUENCE: the door latch assembly has a plastic knob on it; the knob is held on by one small phillips screw which is accessed at the bottom of the knob - it is hidden in an access hole in the bottom of the knob. HAPPY! HAPPY! JOY! JOY1 

I removed the inside panel of door with a screwdriver. Putting in the vent pad itself required no tools whatsoever. At first I wasn't quite sure how it was supposed to be placed in there, but it turns out that the pad is custom cut to fit into the very small grooves at the edge of the inside panel cover. Although I am still unsure as to the vent pad's actual purpose. 

I replaced the door seal, lower seal and corner seals. I also replaced the door interlock switches. Everything works great. 

Watched video on replacing the pump seal and impeller kit. I wanted to see if something was restricting the impeller. I did not have a leak but I figured if I took it apart to hopefully free up a restriction I should install a new kit. Fortunately it did the trick and watching the video made the job go smoothly. To replace the motor and pump assembly would cost half the price of a new machine. I fixed it for less than $30. 

Downloaded wiring diagram from GE, checked drain solonoid,OK, checked water inlet coil OK Print was vague and really could not see heat drying rocker switch, but using tester I found that the switch was not closing in either position, jumped the wiring and the unit then drained and set it for a new cycle and it filled and operated normally through the entire wash, rinse, drain and dry cycles. Replaced old bad rocker switch with new one and am now a genius to my wife. Lol 

Replaced with complete GE Pump and motor assembly. Also installed these other items, ( Piston & nut assembly, Valve,check and vent pad)