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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Temperature Sensor by Frigidaire

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Frigidaire
Part Number: OEM21729474
Manufacturer Part Number: 240597220

Fixes incorrect temperature readings and short cycling. This thermistor monitors fridge temps and signals the control board. Moderate DIY repair.

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Questions & Answers

For Frigidaire Refrigerator Temperature Sensor (Part Number: OEM21729474)

1 Answer

Colleen, No, leaving the door open will not "ruin a new sensor", but can cause frost and ice to develop in the refrigerator that could cause a freezing appearance. Check and make sure both the doors close and seal properly, also check the dispenser door flapper for proper closure and seal. Check the top shelf in the refrigerator, make sure there's nothing large or bulky blocking the damper area or redirecting the air away from the sensor. Check and make sure the sensor box isn't blocked or restricted by an article. Make sure articles on the shelves aren't "hanging" over the edge of the shelves, or piled up and against the walls. We wouldn't expect new parts to fail in a couple of months, but it's possible, but we need to eliminate the more common issues that cause a possible problem, first.

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1 Answer

David, a thermometer should be used to verify the temperatures in the freezer and refrigerator. With this happening, you will want to inspect the evaporator fan 809069220 to ensure it is spinning well. From there, you will want to inspect the damper assembly 241853801 to see if it is opening and closing. The air return at the back of the refrigerator section going back to the freezer will need to be inspected for any blockage as this can prevent airflow. If the damper is not opening, it will need to be checked for incoming voltage from the red with yellow stripe wire to the brown with yellow stripe wire. If there is incoming voltage, then the damper has failed and would need to be replaced. If there is not voltage, then the main control 5303918538would be the most likely issue

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Brian for Model Number FGUS2642LF2

Frigidaire Side by Side Model FGUS2642LF2. The problem started in Oct., started freezing in the frig, the display still said 33, actual was as low as 24. Replaced thermistor after consulting with the area repairman, did not change temp. Replaced control panel worked until late June. Temp started warming up to over 50, first thought was a thermistor, replaced, no change. Replaced control panel with the one I removed in Oct., started freezing again. Ordered another control panel, installed now the temp is 45, display says 33.

1 Answer

Brian, You could check the thermistors in the unit to make sure that they are ok but also check to make sure that you have a good even frost on the evaporator coils by removing the rear wall in the freezer. If the unit has a good frost pattern then this will most likely be caused by a faulty Main control board 5303918538.

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Jochem for Model Number FGHB2844LP2

Fridge is EI23BC30KS3 (exactly 6 years old). Freezer door was replaced after 5 years and two food losses, as it was leaking from day 1, at the bottom (invisible lemon state). At first repair, main board and evaporator fan were replaced (SY, EF codes). At second repair, switch membrane and board control were replaced. Current issue: fridge and freezer are not attaining (factory default) settings of 37 and 0 degrees, actuals are ~ 43 and 10 using a COOPER DFP450W-0-8 cooking thermometer (use MIN tracking). No alarms. Replaced evaporator fan (and missing washer) as well as defrost thermostat (it has disintegrated), cleaned condensor fan and coils. Frost on evaporator coil is normal (light frost). Damper is operating fine when fridge is powered on with cover removed. Tested fridge & freezer thermistors (low temperature tested with ice water): Fridge: 11.0kOhm at room temperature, 23kOhm at 39 degrees Freeze: 11.5kOhm at room temperature, 29kOhm at 36.5 degrees My question: how can I be certain one or both thermistors are bad and need replacement or should I look elsewhere? Thank-you !

1 Answer

Jochem, The thermistor is telling the control what it is reading. That is what is displayed on the user interface. Take a temperature measurement inside the compartment to see real temps. If your reading is off from the display by more than 5 percent then the thermistors need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Roger Wood, your damper should be opening and closing to regulate cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator section. I would replace the damper, part number [241853801]. As far as the temperature sensor, it should be located on the side of the inside cabinet, it usually is covered with a protective box, it senses temperature and tells the control board when to open and close the damper, they don't fail often however.

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1 Answer

Jay, the most likely scenario is going to be that the main control 5303918558 is not properly registering the temperature being sensed by the thermistors. The thermistors can be tested for resistance in comparison to the sections ambient temperature.

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1 Answer

Mark, you will want to check the frost pattern of the evaporator. If the evaporator is completely encased in frost or ice, then you have a defrost issue and this will cause an improper air flow. If the evaporator fan can not properly circulate the air, then it will cause warm temperatures while frost builds up along the back panel.

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1 Answer

Craig, The thermistor will be in the housing where the auger motor is behind the ice bucket.

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Saabin for Model Number E23BC78IPS6

Ice maker has been a big problem with this fridge in the 8 years we've owned it. About 3 years ago, the ice maker would make ice on occasion. I decided to tackle the problem again to get the ice machine working. When I opened the ice maker compartment, the housing and ice maker was completely caked in 4 inches of ice. Defrosted the entire fridge, used a hair dryer to dry out all the parts and let it sit for a few days. Cleaned all the sensors and made sure the switches worked. Arm which brings the ice form mold goes into place where the finger heaters are, water is in the molds and frozen. However, nothing is kick starting the ice to defrost and empty into the bin. I'm at a complete loss as what to do next. Two repair men have been out to assist over the years and they're stumped. Any ideas what could be causing this issue?

1 Answer

Saabin, the heater in the mold [242043902] may be bad, the sensors [5303918416] and [241983101] may be bad, the defrost heater [241962501] or the control [5303918495] may not even be sending the proper voltage through. If you test the thermistors and heaters for resistance, the sensors should read a resistance that correlates to the ambient temperature. The defrost heater should read about 31 ohms.

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1 Answer

Pablo, The ice maker has a separate defrost heater 241962501 I/M heater if it fails the ice compartment can/will ice over. also check to make sure there are no air leaks around the ice maker assembly housing. Check and make sure there are no large or bulky items blocking the air flow from the air tunnel on the back wall onto the shelves of the refrigerator and the auto damper in the air tunnel is opening and closing properly, so the cool select zone isn't getting too cold.

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