Les for Model Number GSH22JFXLWW (General Electric) Not Cooling at all. Just plain died on me. Now, this refrigerator did pulled this same stunt about six months ago and came back and worked fine. I really wonder if this is a controls problem, rather than the sealed system. So I took some measurements and here is what I found so far. Compressor seems to be vibrating very "quietly", as though it is not getting enough umphhh. This Refrigerator apparently uses a compressor with a three-phase motor that is powered via an inverter (mounted on motor). And the inverter is signaled by the Main Board. The Compressor has three pins, all of which show resistance of about 6.2 ohms, pin to pin any combination. The Refrigerator fans and lights all seem to run fine. When on, my fluke multimeter measures about 100V on the top two pins of the compressor. No way in hell to get to the other two pins when assembled. The two "Power Input" pins on the inverter have 120 VAC, but the two pins for the control of the inverter (these two wires go to main board) have a pulsing voltage, roughly once per second, don't know what the hell that is all about. The inverter has a label that says it is 120V input single phase, 230 V output three phase, variable frequency. I am guessing it is telling the compressor to mess around at lowest speed or something like that. Pet theory, but even if correct, is it the main board, or something lieing to the main board? Ought to be a way to trouble shoot this, but alas, I am stuck. Any help?
Answer Les, With the compressor running, if the fans are also running but the unit not cooling at all you will want to check the frost pattern on the evaporator coils. If the coils have a frost pattern that is just barely there or on a couple of the coils then the issue would be a sealed system issue. If the coils have a nice even frost pattern from top to bottom then the issue is with air movement. If the coils are impacted with ice then you will want to test the defrost limiter and heater for continuity and check the resistance of the defrost sensor. If the heater or limiter do not have continuity then it is bad and would need to be replaced. If they check ok and the resistance of the sensor checks bad then replace the sensor and if all 3 check ok then the control board is faulty and would need to be replaced. Read More... Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Tuesday, July 1, 2014