Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Temperature Sensor by Ge

Murray, It could be a temp. sensor WR55X10025 but it's more likely a frozen or "sticky" damper in the air tunnel WR17X12456. Check and make sure the temp sensor grille area is not blocked or restricted by articles on the shelves, first.

Tim, Test or replace the evaporator sensor, first. At 32 dgrs (a few minutes in a glass of ice water)there should be 3.5 to 4.0 ohms resistance. at room temp. the resistance would be 1.2 or less ohms resistance. If the thermistor is OK, then replace the main control board, on the back of the refrigerator WR55X10942C

Hello Chris. These are the new sealed thermistors WR55X10025.

Hello Melissa. It does not pan out to replace the sensor if the unit works after setting for a week. I would check the fan motors on the unit and make sure they are good. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/4220-ge-refrigerators-gs-ps-models-evaporator-fan-motor-test-replacement.html

Hello Tom, I would suspect a sealed system issue. Either a freon loss, a restriction, or an inefficient compressor. The first is easy to check for. Remove the rear wall from the freezer compartment and look at the frost pattern. If there is an iceball at the top where the freon lines enter the compartment, you have a freon loss. If no iceball is present, the next think I mentioned is a restriction. This is where the unit still has all of its' freon, but there is a clog preventing the compressor from adequately circulating the freon through the sealed system. The only real symptom of this without breaking into the sealed system and attaching guages is the compressor will run so hot that you can barely hold your hand to it. The last is an inefficient compressor. This issue cannot really be diagnosed without either putting gauges on the sealed system or the use of a watt meter to check the units' draw on the power supply.The compressor will be warm or cool because the compressor motor is running, but has lost the "load". This is usually attributed to a reed valve in the compressor breaking or sticking, which lets the compressor run kind of like a car that is running at an idle while rolling down hill. It's running, but not performing work. Any of these three senarios require a technician with a freon certification by federal law.

Hello Michael. The freezer is good, however, you need to check and see if there is frost build up on the back freezer wall. If so, It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Raj, Look for a frost build-up on the back wall of the freezer. If you find frost there, you have a defrost issue, (defrost heater, defrost thermostat, main control, or evaporator thermistor). If no frost is on the freezer wall, look for a frost build-up in the damper area or a bad evaporator fan motor. Looking at the configuration you have with the freezer on the bottom, chances are that the freezer fan motor, (evaporator fan motor), WR60X10196 has failed.

Cal, Once you remove the cover grille, you shouldn't have much of an issue getting the thermistor back into position. You do need to be careful fishing the wires back up to the opening. We're going to send you some additional information, that should be helpful. Good Luck and Thanks

Hello Cathy. Test the heater WR51X10055 and the thermostat WR50X10068 on the coils. They should read closed for continuity when cold. if both test good, and the entire assembly of coils are ice, you will need to replace the thermistor WR55X10025 located on the top of the evaporator coils. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Dawn. If the compressor is running, and there is no cooling, you have a sealed system issue and will need to determine if you have a freon leak or a restriction in the unit.