Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Temperature Sensor by Ge

Hello Jim. If the temperature is not correct, and the thermistors are new, you will need to replace the interface board WR55X10390. Hope this helps.

Hi Jim. Either way you will need full access to the thermistor. You may need to totally remove the unit back screws, shelves and rack mounts to get he back off. You need to shut off the ice maker and dump the ice bin. A 1/4 " nut driver or the Phillips screwdriver will do. Then UN cap the thermistor cover (if need be per application) the thermistor is behind it and then cut the unit wires as close to the thermistor as possible so you will have more then enough unit wiring. Replace the thermistor and tighten the stripped wires. Quickly back fill the wire nut with silicone so no moisture will interfere with operations. Then replace the cap and reinstall unit shelves and parts. Check for proper operations. Use a condenser cleaning brush and a shop vac to insure the condenser coils are clean and you do not boil the freon. Make sure the condenser fan is running up to speed .Thank You.

Hi Lance. In the freezer there is a oblong 2" thermistor cover, your thermistor is behind it. Only cut the old one out with the power off and as close to the thermistor body therefore saving as much wire as possible. Then back fill the connectors with silicone so the cavity moisture will not get into it and ruin it. You really have to just remove enough shelves to access the thermistor cover. Then if you need to , you will need to totally disassemble the unit to change the one above the evaporator . Remove the ice bin and remove the ice maker (turn it off). Thermistor part # WR55X10025. Thank You.

Hello Rob. If there is a problem with the sensors in both sections, it is best to replace all the temperature sensors WR55X10025. They do have to be spliced into the wiring harness. Hope this helps.

Hello Peter. You will need to test the temperature sensor WR55X10025 inside the unit. Here is a chart to use for the ohm readings, Thermistor Temperature Resistance 77°F..................10,000 ohms 36°F..................29,500 ohms 0°F....................86,300 ohms. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hi Dennis. At room air temperature of 68° = 6.2k ohms. At 77° = 5k ohms. The thermistor is part # WR55X10025. We cannot identify your model #. Can you send us the exact model # so we can get you the correct part # ? Thank You.

Hello Al. Yes, based on the information you provided, the main control board WR55X10942C is bad and will need to be replaced. Hope this helps.

Hi Bd. Be careful and try to put your hand close to the bottom of the ice maker to see if the heater is staying engaged when it is supposed to be off. (I don't suspect this to be the issue but you need to check to make sure). If the defrost is staying on too long it is controlled by the main service board part # WR49X10152. You need to check the freezer evaporator thermistor part # WR55X10025. At 0° it should read 16.3k ohms. This will tell the main control board to terminate the defrost cycle. There is another on the lowest area behind the evap cover on the left side of the drain pan. It is the same part # and has the same values. Thank You.

Hello Steve. Yes, you will cut the wires and splice the new thermistor WR55X10025 into the unit. Hope this helps.

Hello Frankie. Based on the information you provided, if the fan motor and the main board are good, then the compressor WR87X10226 is bad and will need to be replaced. Test and see if there is power coming to the compressor. If so, and it is just clicking, then you let it sit and it runs, replace the compressor. Hope this helps.