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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Temperature Sensor by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM9556230
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X10025

Fix uneven cooling or defrost issues with a new temperature sensor. Most DIYers complete this repair in under an hour with basic tools and our video.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Refrigerator Temperature Sensor (Part Number: OEM9556230)

David for Model Number PSS25MGNAWW

Follow up question. When I do the self test I get on the freezer read out a "P" and on the FF side I get 12345 during the test it reads out like this p1, p2, p3, p4, 05, now that would show a failed thermistor on #5 which is the freezer thermistor right? I replaced the freezer thermistor and reset the unit and then ran the test again and still the same results pass on all of them except the freezer which I still get a "O5". How can it still be failed if I just put a new one in? Checked all of my connections and everything is tight. Any help with what to do now? Thank you

1 Answer

Hi David. There are 2- thermistors in the freezer section. Part # WR55X10025, for evap. one. Part # WR55X10025 for middle area in the freezer. There are 2 - as well in the fresh food area. Same part #'s. Crisper and upper control/damper area. When you pressed cold,warm both freezer and fresh food to enter the field test, did 0-'s appear in both areas? If so did the blinking 0's change to solid 0's? Just confirming. The thermistors are controlled by algorithms sent from the main board. Yes, 0-5 means the freezer thermistor has failed. Your connection needs to be tight and back filled with silicone so no moisture will impede the connection. You may have only replaced one thermistor and change the other as required. Thermistors have been upgraded as a whole and last longer these days. Thank You.

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David for Model Number pss25mgnaww

Just a quick follow up question... If you have a failed freezer thermistor will that make the damper motor run non-stop? I had the damper problem with the broke damper door and bought the new part but the damper motor runs non-stop. I can hear it when the rest of the refrigerator is not running. I can put my ear up to the side and hear it running. Just wondering if the failed thermistor has anything to do with that? Thanks and keep up the great work you guys do for us all who need help and are trying to save money. David

1 Answer

Hi David. The thermistors tell the board @ cavity sensed temperature's. If open or shorted it will automatically put the defrost circuit in an 1-hr. forced defrost. The thermistors will not act as you said w/ the damper. Did you get the damper assy. part # WR49X10091? Possibly the wire connections need double checked per colors. Make sure there are no pinched shorted wires. If the part needs exchanged, we will stand behind it. Please see your instructions per part. Please call 1-877-477-7278 A.P.P Call Center. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Hello David. Yes, WR55X10025 is the correct thermistor for the model number you provided. The thermistor reads the temperature inside the freezer, and there is one on the coils that works the defrost cycle. They are made to read the temperature and send it to the control board using an ohms value reading. If the code says it is bad, you will need to replace the thermistor. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Susan, Life expectancy on electrical components, especially PCB's(printed circuit board) can't really be determined, there are too many outside influences to consider, proper, constant voltage, polarity, wiring, environment, etc. on occasion a failed component, can and does damage a PCB. On average, and under the proper circumstances, I'd expect a PCB to last at least a year, and as long as 5, under proper conditions. good Luck and Thanks

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1 Answer

Hi Russell. You will need the thermostat/harness assy. Part # WR23X10209. The fresh food thermistor is part # WR55X10025. These parts work in conjunction with each other. Thank you.

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1 Answer

Hello Frank. If your serial number is ZA2, and not ZD2, then you do not cut the wire. Here is the list of serial numbers we have for the wire to be cut. ZD2 is on this list. Hope this helps. ENCODER models with the following serial number prefixes: TD2, VD2, ZD2, AF2, DF2, FF2, GF2, HF2, LF2, MF2, RF2, SF2

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Frank H for Model Number GSS20IEMBWW

Have a follow up question...to my previous... When I installed the new mother board, I noticed that the evap fan began running immediately with the either door open. With previous mother board the fan only ran when the doors (both doors) were closed. So far, i have purchased and installed new mother board, heater, and heat sensor. Evap fan is next. Ran good for about two weeks and frosted over again. Suspect fan may be sticking or quits and then it frosts over. Instructions with mother board said to cut the wire in pin 2 of the J1 connector, but list of models on instructions did not include my model GSS20IEMBWW. Just want to be sure and confirm that wire does not need to be cut for my model number... Also, does the evap fan run all the time, or does it shut down sometimes depending on temperature or if it goes into defrost cycle. I opened the door the other day and noticed fan was not running.

1 Answer

Hello Frank. You will need to look at the first three letters and number of your serial number to determine if the wire needs to be cut. Not the model number. If it needs to be cut, this can solve the problem your having. The fan motor does shut off if the temperature is correct or in the defrost cycle. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Frank. If the fan WR60X10185 is not running, it will cause the coils to ice over. It sounds like you found the problem. Hope this helps.

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Edward A. G. for Model Number gsh22kgpbbb

Hi, My GE model # gsh22kgpbbb I replaced the defrost heater harness wr51x10101 and the defrost limiter thermostat #ap3884317 (wr50x10068) I did notice an orange glow in the freezer when in defrost after I changed those above parts, but not any more, I have defrosted the coil but it only last for a week and then it freezers the coil again, I'm thinking of replacing the thermistors, in your diagram it shows #241 and #242 but they are the same part # ap3185407. Could you please advise I'm trying to not replace the mother board if it's not that I read that GE had a problem with some of their thermistors, I would much rather replace a couple of thermistors at 9.26 than the mother board. Thank - you in advance. Ed G.

1 Answer

Hello Edward. The thermistors WR55X10025 are the same part for the application you are referring to. It sounds like the main board WR55X10942C is the problem, if there is no power to the heater. Hope this helps.

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