Moses September 15, 2017 for Model Number RFG298AARS/XAA Fridge stopped cooling. I bought and replaced PCB Sub Inverter board and now the LED on the board is constantly on. I hear the compressor fans running but neither freezer or fridge is cold. Front panel shows code 88 88. What should I try next?
1 Answer Hello Moses. You will need to try resetting the unit. Unplug it for about 20 minutes then plug back in. If the issue continues, then the main board may have failed and will need to be replaced on the unit. Read More...
Ken September 02, 2017 for Model Number RF266-AEBP Refrigerator at this time has a bad evap. fan motor, getting 9 v DC but not running. other than that have a issue with digital readout blinking on left side a steady 88 and on right from 88 to 86, frige runs fine but i do not know what my settings are. buttons will still change temp , verified by temp. change taken with meter. Main board has been changed and also digital display. I have been running it this way for about 3 years. Would like to get this taken care of, any ideas?
1 Answer Ken, The 86 on the refrigerator side would indicate a issue with the refrigerator sensor and would need to replace the fan motor and the sensor. Read More...
Robert August 29, 2017 for Model Number RS263tdwp/xaa01 Unit started making noise. I replaced the ref motor, but the only thing wrong was a build up of ice locking the motor up. So than I figured it had to be a defrost issue, so changed the main board. It lasted about 2 months and same noise is starting again. self diagnostics say bad ref motor again. I have not opened it up again, but I know what I will find. need some ideas. unit is from 2012.
1 Answer Robert, You will want to look for a possible issue with the defrost sensor on the unit. This will be the most likely cause for this issue. Read More...
John August 05, 2017 for Model Number RF260BEAESR/AA My French door Samsung refrigerator has been working for three years. Now it does not cool at all, and it gives the error code 84 E, which seems to be for "Locked Compressor". Also, in the Inverter PCB, the LED Blinking Frequency is 4 (blinks four times between pauses), which again seems to be "Locked Compressor". I found on line the service manual for this model and did some measurements. All three winding of the motor were equal, 12 ohm. Resistance windings-ground is indefinite. Disconnected three wire connector in Invertor PCB that powers the compressor. Still the error code 84 E, and four blinking of LED. Measured the AC voltages that enter the Invertor PCB and the Main PCB: It was 120 Volt. Measured the DC voltages that enter the Invertor PCB from the Main PCB in the 7 pin connector: Pin 5 and 6 are ground. Pin 1 to 5 -13.2 V, Pin 2 to 5 – 13.2 V, Pin 3 to 5 – 5 Volt. Fuse is good. Disconnected all connectors from all three PCBs. Removed Main PCB and Invertor PCB; no visual damage on both sides of each one. No current draw with all connector disconnected. Plugged the first connector into the AC Entry Power PCB (small PCB). The current drew from the outlet was 0.05 Amp. Plugged one by one the connectors in the Main PCB. The current did not change: 0.05 Amp. Plugged into the Inverter PCB the 7 pin connector that supplies DC power from the Main PCB. The current did not change: 0.05 Amp. Pugged the AC power input connector into the Inverter PCB (but not yet the three wire connector that powers the compressor). After a couple of seconds the relay (in the Main PCB) clicked, and current from the outlet increased up to 3 Amp for a couple of seconds then the relay clicked again, the current dropped at 0.05 A, LED began to flash with frequency of 4, and code 84 E appeared. Removed power, plugged the three wire connector that powers the motor of the compressor, and powered up again. Happened the same as above. The compressor did not work. Used a digital and then an analog meter, in AC and DC range, to measure voltage between 3 wires that power the motor of compressor, but there was no indication of voltage at all (during the time period of powering up, relay clicking, and error code flashing). The frequency between these 3 wires was variable at first seconds then stabilized at about 5 KHz. Replaced the Inverter PCB with a new one. The same situation, error code 84 E, LED flash frequency of 4. Why it shows error code “compressor locked” even though the motor of the compressor is disconnected? What can be the reason why the compressor is not working?
1 Answer Hello John, The fault code description in the service manual is referring to a sealed system issue. When there is a sealed system restriction, too much pressure is built up on one side and it cannot bleed of to the other side inside the system, causing the compressor to lock, since it cannot build up any more pressure. This will most likely take a Freon authorized technician to diagnose and correct. Read More...
Rosanne August 04, 2017 for Model Number RFG297ABWP/XAA Had an error code reading evaporator fan. Replaced evaporator fan two times, still not working. So had repairman out and he said it was main board since no power to fan. New board put in and still getting error code to evaporator fan. repairman checked over again and said main board could be bad too. But that would be odd to give same error code again. Repairman said nothing else he could do, told me to buy new refigerator, samsung junk. The refigerator is cold but freezer section is not getting cold.Freezer food all melted and now empty. It is set for -8 in freezer and 38 in the Refigerator. Now it is blinking -8 on readout continuously overnight. The refigeraror is not even 7 years old yet. I can't afford $2000 for a new one. Help any idea what it is. Could it be a sensor or something?
1 Answer Rosanne, It is possible that the sensor is bad but you can test it for 5K ohms at room temp of 77 degrees. If the resistance is not good then the sensor would need replaced. It is very possible that the control board is the issue if there is no power to the motor but could also be a loose connection so would want to check for that as well. Read More...
Captain Chaos July 01, 2017 for Model Number RFG295AAWP Freezer stopped working but frig is fine. When I disconnect the Ambient-Sensor/Ice Room-Sensor plug from the PCB Board, the freezer starts to cool (dropped from 70+ to around 40 so far. That would lead me to believe the Step-Motor Valve is working because it is definitely cooling the freezer. But clearly something is not working. When all connections are on the PCB Board, no errors show on the readout. When I pull the connector I get an 8d 89 which makes sense to me since the board recognizes the sensors are not being read. Thoughts? I'm going nuts here...thanks!
1 Answer Hello Captain Chaos. This would point to a sealed system failure on the unit. You will need an HVAC tech to come out and repair the unit for you. Thanks. Read More...
Mike June 06, 2017 for Model Number RF268ABRS/XAA-0000 My freezer slowly/intermittently was getting warmer over the course of a 5-6 months until it finally stopped freezing. The evaporator has no ice and the refrigerator is cooling perfectly. I have replaced two thermistors, one which sits next to the accumulator next to the evaporator in the freezer compartment and another that sits on the inside top of the freezer compartment housed in a plastic covering. I also replaced the PCB main board to no avail so I am running out of ideas. I tried forced and self diagnostics (start up) but can't seem to get any reading (maybe I am not doing the diagnostics correctly). I read somewhere it could be a step valve or a problem with the sealed system although I don't understand the latter if the fridge is working perfectly. Any help would be appreciated.
1 Answer Mike, This issue would most likely be caused by a faulty stepping valve which would be part number DA97-07070B which is part of the sealed system and would need to have a service technician to install. Read More...
Diego May 18, 2017 for Model Number RFG237ACRS by Samsung My fridge is freezing everything. I've changed all the parts (main board, thermocouples, thermostats, etc) and despite the main panel showing 7 degrees Celsius inside the fridge, when I put a thermometer in, real temperature is -4 degrees. The only thing I have not changed is the ASSY PCB Sub Inverter (Part# DA41-00614F). Could this be causing the malfunction or will I throw away another 300$? Thank you in advance, Diego
1 Answer Diego, You will want to test the sensors in this unit which at room temperature should read 5K ohms at room temperature. This will be the most likely cause for the unit to get too cold with the main board having been replaced. Read More...
Joe April 30, 2017 for Model Number RF268ABRS The temps for the freezer and refrigerator are good, the condenser fan runs, makes ice but no evaporator fans run in the freezer or rerigerator. No voltage to the fans, does this point to the main board being bad?
1 Answer Hello Joe. As long as the door is open, there will be no voltage. The door has to be closed. Read More...
Dave March 15, 2017 for Model Number RF268ABWP We recently went through numerous power outages due to a storm. Afterwards our refrigerator quit cooling. The front panel lights up but the compressor does not run. I looked at the control boards and found a blown fuse on the board marked DA41-00411A, I replaced the fuse and it blew again. The back of the board is burnt. What does this board run so I can check out it out before replacing the board
1 Answer Dave, This inverter board would control the compressor of the unit. If this board is burnt then it would be a faulty inverter board. Read More...