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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Temperature Sensor by Samsung

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Samsung
Part Number: OEM12410853
Manufacturer Part Number: DA32-10109W

The Refrigerator Temperature Sensor is essential for maintaining the optimal performance of your Samsung refrigerator. This genuine OEM part ensures accurate temperature readings, allowing your appliance to regulate cooling efficiently. By replacing a faulty temperature sensor with this high-quality component, you can restore your fridge's ability to keep your food fresh and safe. Designed specifically for Samsung refrigerator models, the DA32-10109W offers seamless compatibility and reliable performance. Its durable construction guarantees long-lasting operation, minimizing the need for frequent replacements. Installing this temperature sensor is straightforward, helping you quickly get your refrigerator back to peak functionality. Investing in this genuine OEM part means you are choosing quality and dependability, ensuring your appliance runs smoothly and effectively. Trust the Refrigerator Temperature Sensor to enhance the reliability of your Samsung refrigerator and provide a consistent cooling environment for your household.

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Questions & Answers

For Samsung Refrigerator Temperature Sensor (Part Number: OEM12410853)

Jackie for Model Number RS25H5111SR/AA

Hello, I have a Samsung RS25H5111SR/AA and the fridge side is not cooling. We removed the interior panel, defrosted everything and replaced the Evaporator Fan Motor assembly. It seemed to start cooling the fridge down and got down to 40* but is slowly getting warmer again. The digital temp on the door shows 34* but I have a manual thermometer inside and its definitely not 34*. I'm wondering if I need to replace the thermistor/temp sensor on the fridge side? I'm thinking the fridge believes its cold enough and therefore not running the fan? I'm looking at part #AP4136948 on your site.

1 Answer

Jakie, The temperature that shows on the display is not the actual temperature but is the set temperature. It would be recommended to see if the coils are iced up again and if it is then test the defrost bi-metal, heater and thermistor to make sure that they are good. If one of the parts is bad then replace it. If they all check ok then the control board would be the issue.

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1 Answer

Skye, this can be caused by a defrost sensor DA32-00029Q, defrost fuse DA47-00301B, defrost heater DA47-00322J, or a main control DA41-00670C failure. The defrost sensor would need to be tested from the main control while a thermometer is directly next to the sensor. Using the wires at the connection CN40, the purple wire at pin 11 and the gray wire at pin 4 would be tested for resistance. The sensor will measure 11,741O at 37°F, 13,290O at 32°F, 15,076O at 26°F, 17142O at 21°F, and 20,418O at 14°F. The defrost fuse should measure as having continuity and if it does not, then it has failed. The defrost heater should measure about 102O when tested for resistance. If these parts test good, the failure would most likely be in the main control.

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Josh for Model Number RF263BEAESR/AA-0000

Every ~ 3 weeks for the past 3 months the freezer will stop working and now the fridge as well. After unplugging for reboot both sections will start working until next time. At first the temperature reading was high signaling this however lately the temperature will still read at goal. After unplugging the temperature will read the correct elevated temp and kick on the compressor. I've had a technician out and they just said it was operating fine at that point and may be the main board but basically couldn't figure it out. Could this just be temperature sensor malfunctioning, not accurately reading the temperature therefore not triggering the compressor to turn on? If so which sensors fit my model? Thank you for the help.

1 Answer

Josh, based on the information provided, this would be a main control DA92-00384B failure. A temperature sensor would not intermittently fail and then properly read the correct temperatures.

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1 Answer

Denise, You will want to check the frost pattern in the freezer compartment on the evaporator coils. If there is very little frost then the issue will be a sealed system and will require service.

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1 Answer

Brian, You can test the thermisters from the main control board. You will check the resistance of the thermisters [ohms] to see if they are out of spec. In the freezer, the thermistor should have a resistance reading of 29,350 at 0 degrees and 39,000 at -12. Test the freezer at connector CN 40 pin5 and CN 50 pin 5 from the main control board. The refrigerator should be around 38 degrees and the thermistor should read 11,500K ohms. Test points are CN 40 pin 9 and CN 50 pin 5. Out of spec thermistors will need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Kirk, In this model, the freezer supplies the unit cooling. It is possible there is a problem in the sealed system. You will need to remove the back cover of the freezer and make sure you have a solid frost pattern from top of the evaporator to the bottom. If the coils are frozen solid there is a defrost problem. Let us know what you find and we can go from there.

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1 Answer

Terry, the temperature sensor DA32-10109Y would be used for the freezer section of your model. It will be located behind the top vent cover.

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1 Answer

Kate, if the freezer is getting below 5°F then the issue would be within the ice maker assembly DA97-07603B. If the freezer is not reaching 5°F or less, then the ice maker will not cycle properly and the temperature sensor could be suspect.

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1 Answer

Hong, the water at the bottom is an indicator that the defrost drain is clogged. Using hot tap water, the defrost drain can be cleared. Once the defrost drain is cleared, the defrost drain tube DA97-04049D, located in the compressor compartment, will need to be cleaned or replaced.

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1 Answer

Amanda, If your coils were fully frosted top to bottom then you most likely had a defrost issue. Heater, defrost bi-metal or main control could be the issue. Control should send 120 vac thru the sensor and thermal fuse to the heater for a defrost. The heater should have a resistance of 10 - 50 ohms and bi-metal should read closed. If there was only ice at the top then you would have a sealed system leak or fan motor not running. Fan motor should have a reading of 12 to 13 vdc. The compressor must be running.

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