Samsung DA47-00301B Refrigerator Thermal Fuse Assembly For Bottom-Mount Models OEM Part

1. Unplug and let defrost (I had it unplugged for days, not sure if that was necessary). 2. Removed panels inside the back of the fridge (careful not to damage the wires. Also, note that on my model there was a screw behind the long, narrow LED light strip. That strip had to be unplugged and slid down to access the screw. There were also screws in each of the lower light fixtures. 3. Removed temperature sensor on the top of the bottom panel (I used a pliers to open up the white clip that holds it against the silver thing) 4. Installed new sensor and put everything back together. Very easy. Worked great! I did NOT have to replace the thermo fuse assembly or the motor that are on this order. Just the temperature sensor.

I had previously replaced the defrost heater in the Samsung refrigerator compartment when it iced up, but 5 months later a repeat occurrence. i called an appliance repair man--not the one from Samsung, who didn't have any parts anyway. He took a look and suggested that the thermo fuse might be shorted. It wasn't, but he noted water vapor (very small drops of water) inside the clear seal tube. BTW, the new fuse came wrapped in mylar, so you can't see inside! He said he always replaces the fuse when he replaces the defrost heater, and this is a common samsung repair. Since he did not have the right fuse for this model, he said I might as well order and install it myself. If it doesn't solve the problem long term, I'll call him back. So far so good, but it hasn't been long enough yet to tell if the problem will reoccur. Notes: Directing a fan at the bottom of the evaporator cover panel accelerates defrosting. There are six screws, including two quite recessed and two under the light panel covers. Once the panel is defrosted enough to remove, directing the fan at the evaporator until it is totally defrosted helps to ensure that the defrost cycle resets properly when the refrigerator restarts. Pouring a little water down the drain helps ensure that the drain was not clogged. Since these units seal around the evaporator coils, they should not normally have clogging in the drain unless the refrigerator has been in a situation where mold can grow.

This is a common problem with this model, and through on-line troubleshooting, found out the evaporative fan is a common cause of the refrigerator not cooling. i called to ask a question about a part and got help identifying other easy user-replacable parts that i thought i may as well change while i'm in there. the rep was very helpful and, i couldn't believe it, available at 1130pm PDT on a Sunday night!

The freezer was working fine, but the refrigerator was not cooling and was reaching 60F when set to 36F. I defrosted the fridge, removed the panel, replaced the motor, sensor, and fuse. Reassembled and turned back on. It went very smoothly and the fridge has been working well for 3 days now. The only thing that confused me was the thermo fuse-assembly. It is much longer than the one that was already installed in my fridge, but I'm guessing this one is better because it looks more heavily insulated.

Replaced motor fan and temp sensor.