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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Temperature Selector Switch (4-Position) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18025131
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3399640

This dryer temperature selector switch lets you choose between four heat settings for proper fabric care. Replacing a worn switch restores accurate temperature selection so loads dry evenly without overdrying delicate items.

  • Controls the dryer's heat level across four selectable settings
  • Faulty switch can cause incorrect temperatures or only one setting to work
  • May lead to poor drying performance or fabric damage if not functioning
  • Restores reliable temperature selection and consistent drying results
What's included: One 4-position temperature selector switch Install notes:
  • Unplug dryer before servicing; shut off gas if applicable
  • Pull control knob straight off to access the switch
  • Transfer wires one at a time to the new switch to maintain correct positions
  • Ensure switch shaft and flat align with the knob during reassembly

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Temperature Selector Switch (4-Position) (Part Number: OEM18025131)

Bill for Model Number 110.69912692

This is a follow up to my previous question from today. I checked the vent and it is clean and only about 2 feet long as the dryer is next to the exterior wall. I have also changed the cycling thermostat and it still seems to blow the Thermal Cut off (352 degree) about once a month. I stated that it seems to get hot no matter what setting it is on but that is not true all the time. normally it seem to operate at the right temperature but some times we go in to get clothes out of the dryer and they are extremely hot to the point you can't hardly touch any metal zippers or buttons. It seems to over heat from time to time and this must be when it is blowing the Thermal Cut Offs. What could be causing this to happen so randomly? See my previous question for more details but I have recently changed both Thermal cut offs twice and the cycling thermostat. I have also changed the timer which went out last month but this issues has been happening prior to changing that out. Thanks, Bill

1 Answer

Bill, This issue is going to have something to do with the air flow. You will want to check to see if the blower wheel is clear of all debris, such as fabric sheets and lint. Also on the outside of the home make sure that the vent is opening and no lint build up that could keep the flapper from opening up.

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Bill for Model Number 110.69912692

I have replaced many parts through your company. Thanks. Recently have have had an issue with the dryer (Kenmore Model 110.69912696) not heating and replaced The dryer cycling thermostat (3387134) and both thermal cutoffs (279769) which fixed it but about once a month it will trip the Thermal Cut-Off (352 degrees). I have replaced it and all the above parts again to just have it trip again about a month later. It seems that the clothes are getting very hot no matter what setting we put it on. Do you think the Dryer Temp Switch (AP3133037) could be bad? How can I test this with an ohm meter? I am tired of buying new Thermal Cut offs. Thanks for your help and always great services. Bill

1 Answer

Hello Bill. Check the vent and make sure it is clear. If so, then you will need to check the cycling thermostat in the unit. If it is bad, it can cause it to over heat. It does not sound like the switch to me.

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1 Answer

Patrick, The temperature switch is a good idea, but it's not the likeliest issue. If you're sure both breakers are set and locked down, and you have 220-240 VAC at the dryer terminal block, then your first check should be at the heater element 279838 check and make sure the wire is broken or shorted, especially in the insulator area(s) then check the thermal fuse 279816 and hi limit switch. If the dryer overheated for any reason, and the fuse "opened", the dryer won't heat.

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Nancy for Model Number whirlpool thin twin washer dryer combo

Dryer timer quit working on most used setting. I had to open door to turn off. (4 setting timer, 2 hot) so I began using the other hot setting. It worked briefly, but now the ignitor lights and stays on for about 20 seconds then shuts off. I have gas and I have cleaned the machine thoroughly for lint. Still doesn't work. I'm leaning toward the timer since that is where the issue began. I'm thinking the appliance doesn't know if it is on or off so its cuts the gas off.

1 Answer

Hello Nancy. It sounds like the timer or the coils are the issue with the unit. Also, make sure the vent is clear and not kinked or clogged.

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Brandon for Model Number Kenmore 90 Series Dryer (electric)

SUBJECT: No heat, but all else works fine. I have purchased and installed replacement High Limit T-stat, Cycling T-stat, and Thermal Fuse (all from appliancepartspros.com). I have checked 220 outlet, 220 fuse bank, cord attachment, all hot with no apparent signs of damage. Timer seemingly has good contacts and function. Heating Element was removed and cleaned and inspected and does not appear broken or grounded. Heating Element seems to be getting power as do the violet leads on the cycling T-stat when using a simple VAC voltage tester. No power seems to be reaching the thermal fuse, but I am not sure what is normal. It also seems no measurable voltage is passing through the temperature control switch. What should my next step be?

1 Answer

Hello Brandon. If the thermal fuse were bad, the dryer would not run. It sounds as if the element is bad, if there is 240 volts to it, but no heat. If this is the case, you will need to order and replace the heater in the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Cristy, The starting place is the breaker box. Turn the breaker off for the dryer and then back on. If one side of a double breaker trips, the un-tripped side tends to hold the other side up so you cannot really tell if one side is tripped. Next, go to the receptacle. Unplug the unit and inspect the power cord prongs for burned spots. A burned spot is an indication that the receptacle is worn out and requires replacement. This is an important check since a poor electrical connection can very easily become a fire hazard since a point of high resistance produces heat. If this checks good, remove the terminal block cover so you can physically check for loose wires. If an issue exists in there, you can usually tell from the discoloration from the heat generated from a bad connection. From this point, it appears that you have checked most of the components in the unit, except the centrifugal switch in the motor and the timer. These are both in the circuit and will prevent normal operation if either open the circuit.

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1 Answer

Joe, Based on your post description, you may want to start at the timer WPW10185982 . The dryer should heat in both timed dry and automatic dry, At the timer, terminals C (black) and A (red) should be a "closed" circuit. on any cycle. And terminal A to chassis ground, should have 120 VAC out to the heating circuit, on any cycle except air fluff or the cool down at the end of the cycle(s)

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1 Answer

Robert, First check and clean the exhaust vent system and vent hood of any lint or restrictions. Temperature switches don't go bad very often, and you may want to start with the cycling thermostat WP3387134. Thanks and Good Luck

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