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Customer Questions and Answers for Oven Control Board by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18032031
Manufacturer Part Number: WP71001799

This is an oven control board and clock manufactured by Whirlpool. It allows the user to adjust temperature, change oven function, set timers, and more. While the control board is designed to be durable, it can fail over time through exposure to moisture or high temperatures.When the oven control board begins to fail, it will not respond to user input, or may respond incorrectly. Replacing the control board is the only option to restore functionality. To replace it, turn off the power or unplug the oven. Remove the four screws holding the control board in place and disconnect the wires. Install the new board by following these steps in reverse.This is a genuine OEM part. It is sold individually, and fits Whirlpool, Roper, and Amana branded ovens.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Oven Control Board (Part Number: OEM18032031)

1 Answer

Hello John, Most of the time the problem is in the clock assembly WP71001799 which is not serviceable but only replaceable. Once in a while it will be the power supply on the board W10757086 that is mounted on the back of the unit. If you want to troubleshoot for the exact problem before ordering parts, you can do so with a DC voltmeter. The orange harness that goes to the clock assembly should have two different terminals that read a DC voltage. One will be about 6 Vdc and the other will be about 9 Vdc. If these voltages are present, the clock is bad. If none of the terminals have a DC voltage present, the power supply on the board in back has failed.

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Bill J. for Model Number SVE47600B

Shortly after replacing the touch pad about two years ago, the clock display started to grow dimmer. After a while ( couple of months) it blacked out completely. All oven functions and touchpad worked properly even tho there was no display--until yesterday. Yesterday, while convection baking a roast @325f, the stove suddenly began to draw greater electrical current and began to overheat (like going into cleaning mode). after a few minutes, when I began to smell something burning, I realized what had happened and open the door. The roast was toast! I pushed the "cancel" button on the touch pad and after the smoke cleared I noticed the broiler element was still on, so I pushed the "cancel" button again, and then noticed I did not hear a beep and the element did not turn off. So I turned off the disconnect.----Today, I turned the disconnect back on and checked the various stove functions.---all cooktop burners work properly---the timer works (altho there is no display) all touch pad buttons act as tho they work(beep sound) but the oven does not heat and the convection fan does not come on--(exhaust fan comes on when the broiler button is depresed on the touch pad even tho the element does not heat)---is the problem a bad oven control unit??? thanks!

1 Answer

Hello Bill. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the electronic control WP71001799 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Ronnie. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the membrane WP71002300 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Mike. Based on the information and the error code, the control board WP71001799 is bad and will need to be replaced in the unit. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Kevin. Based on the information you provided, you will need to replace the relay board 12001693 on the unit. It powers the display on the control board. Hope this helps.

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Richard for Model Number SVD48600B

I am perplexed. I have a Jenn-Air SVD48600B that I have replaced just about everything in and still have issues, the cooling fan and oven light are still light. I have replaced the membrane switch, part number: AP4088890, the electronic oven control assembly, part number: AP4088560, the relay board, part number: AP4008573 and the oven temperature sensor, part number: AP4009009. I have also ohmed out all of the wiring and felt each one looking for any damage. I can get the oven light and fan to stay off if I disconnect the control board. What did I miss or did I get a defective part along the way?

1 Answer

Hello Richard. Use the wiring diagram on the unit and make sure the clock and relay board are wired correctly. If not, it will cause the unit to do what you have described. Hope this helps.

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Paul M. for Model Number Amana Big Oven

Oven would not maintain heat setting. I checked the thermostat and it is in specs. Removed the oven control unit and spray cleaned the potentiometer/ selector, I figured it had grease causing poor contact. Reassembled and it worked fine for a day. Now, some settings are not making contact. Broil, not working. Temp setting goes off prematurely. I can wiggle the knob and make it have contact. I feel quite sure the problem is a worn or dirty selector control (potentiometer) I have not located the correct oven control unit, I don't have a model or serial number. It is the Amana Big Oven,Capacity Plus 5.1 Can you give me the correct part number for a new control unit?

1 Answer

Hi Paul. There are approx. 6-models of the big oven. We used a middle model # ACF4215AC that has the potentiometer in w/ the face of the clock and it is part # 77001219. It is no longer availiable. Thank you.

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Steveb for Model Number Jenn Air, SVD48600B

Original response:Hi Steve. Remove power. Then access the control board/ clock assy. Double check the terminal block for all wire connections for being tight. Use a second 3/8" brass nut part # AP4597212 on all 3 terminals to lock the first ones in place. Then you need to concentrate on all the electrical board connections. The ribbon cable needs to be inserted squarely and the side locking tabs for the ribbon cable will need to locked to hold the ribbon. Next the white J-2 connector needs to be examined closely with a magnifying glass. If any single square female pins are not fully inserted in the plug then they will loose connection at the board like you say. You can press in on the individual locking tab for the wire connector and push it in with a pick tool to slide the female connector out from the entire molex -connector. Then look at it carefully to see if the female terminal is too wide for proper connection. Is it burnt ? Repair as necessary. You can use needle nose pliers to tighten them. Try all of this and then look at the board for a loose solder joint. repair as necessary. Sorry @ the part issue. Please let us know if we can assist. you further. Thank You. Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/questions-for-WHIRLPOOL-Electronic-oven-control-assembly-AP4088560-qid38741.aspx#q38741#ixzz1jwuBemlu http://www.appliancepartspros.com Ok, I did as requested, and I saw nothing that is readily, or easily identifiable. When I reconnected it, I got an F- error. While I cannot remember at this point, I think I got it when I originally installed the replacement back in November. I know that I've gotten it each time that I checked all the connections. The ribbon is seated squarely, and holder is locked down- J3 connector. I checked the J1, and J2 connectors, I see nothing that is obviously an issue. None of the pins are bent, none of the pins appeared to be burnt, nor do any of the connectors appear to be burnt. In checking to see if any solder joints are bad, my eyes aren't THAT good. I used a magnifying glass, and they all appear fine to me. I checked all the larger components on the board, and while some appear to be movable, I can't tell if its the casing that's movable, or if it's due to the wiring connections gone bad. I did use a magnifying glass, and the best I can tell-- it's just the casing of the connectors that are loose. In looking at the front of the clock/control assembly, I do see where the burnt mark at the upper left corner of the screen appears-- just as it did with the old one I'd replaced. Two things that come to mind here--1- does the burnt upper left corner mean there's another issue. 2- the F- error message says that I have a j2 connector communication error between boards, the comment says- J2 harness, ohm wires end to end. Harness ok, replace display board. What does j2 harness, ohm wires end to end mean? What's next? tyia.

1 Answer

Hi Steve. This means that you need to remove the harness altogether. Then you use the ohm meter to put the meter on Rx1 scale (lowest)and then touch the lead ends together momentarily to see a 0-or .01 reading, if it beeps automatically this will be better yet. This way you are certain the meter is working correctly. Then find the # 1 terminal on each plug end. It should have a # 1 terminal on one end with no # 2 beside it. This spot will be blank noting the correct plug side because of the blank the # 2 terminal starts there after the blank port. #3 terminal, #4 terminal so on and so forth as needed per circuit. So you ohm out all terminals one at a time for open connections (break in connections or the wires). This is easier w/ 2 people as one will work w/you on one end to hold the meter lead. Corresponding w/ you at the same time. This will cause the F-2 code. The black spot on the upper corner of the control board (same as new one ) may not necessarily denote an issue. In repair experience the f-2 should be a communication issue from the clock if all wire connections are good and tight. Since both boards are the same age, it is most unfortunate that sometimes it is necessary to change both parts. Clock part # WP71001799. The F-3 code is a bad oven sensor not ohming to 1080-1,100 ohms part # 12001656. Thank You.

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Steveb for Model Number AP4088560 (Part#), SVD48600B (Oven#)

Hi. I have the Jenn Air svd48600B, and purchased a new AP4088560 late last year- I think it was late October, or early November. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed that the power was out on the lcd readout, and after tinkering with the connection (I opened up the panel, removed both connectors, wiped them with a dry cloth, and reconnected them), it came back on. Last Friday, I was standing in the kitchen preparing lunch, and watched it just go black again. Now, I'm wondering why. I've checked the breaker panel, etc... and nothing that I can see is wrong there. I can still use the gas cooktop, but the oven controls are blanked out. Help... please. TYIA.

1 Answer

Hi Steve. Remove power. Then access the control board/ clock assy. Double check the terminal block for all wire connections for being tight. Use a second 3/8" brass nut part # 112432 on all 3 terminals to lock the first ones in place. Then you need to concentrate on all the electrical board connections. The ribbon cable needs to be inserted squarely and the side locking tabs for the ribbon cable will need to locked to hold the ribbon. Next the white J-2 connector needs to be examined closely with a magnifying glass. If any single square female pins are not fully inserted in the plug then they will loose connection at the board like you say. You can press in on the individual locking tab for the wire connector and push it in with a pick tool to slide the female connector out from the entire molex -connector. Then look at it carefully to see if the female terminal is too wide for proper connection. Is it burnt ? Repair as necessary. You can use needle nose pliers to tighten them. Try all of this and then look at the board for a loose solder joint. repair as necessary. Sorry @ the part issue. Please let us know if we can assist. you further. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Hello Alan. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the oven control assembly WP71001799 is bad and will need to be replaced. Hope this helps.

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