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Customer Questions and Answers for Electronic Control Board by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18040017
Manufacturer Part Number: WP8564543

Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Electronic Control Board (Part Number: OEM18040017)

Scott for Model Number Whirlpool GU1200XTLS2

My DW lost its mind. It will occasionally allow an Hi-Temp Scour / Air Dry / Hi-Temp Scour / Air Dry / Hi-Temp Scour reset and begin to act right, but then it will light up the Sani Rinse and Washing light and run doing something but nothing sensical. If I press the cancel button everything stops, but later on it randomly starts back up in that endless Sani Rinse mode. I disconnected and reseated all the connectors on the control board. Thought that fixed it but it fell right back into its insanity after running in the Normal wash mode for almost the whole cycle. Control Board? Thanks.

1 Answer

Scott, You most likely have a faulty keypad assembly WP8534833. since you reset the control and the issue returned, start at the control panel/keypad assembly. display lights that are irratic, or illuminate on their own, indicate an issue in the pad itself, or the ribbon is shorted.

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1 Answer

Hello Henry, You will want to check the float switch to make sure that the float is not out of place or stuck in the up position. If it checks ok you can do a continuity check. When the float switch is not being pushed then it is open and should not have continuity. When you push button you should have continuity. No continuity with switch pushed meas that the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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Greg for Model Number kudmo1tjbso

My Kitchenaid dishwasher stopped mid cycle just before the water heating cycle would normally start/light up.The cycle lights were blinking erratically & unit would not cancel (light blinking erratically) or drain correctly.Complete draining accomplished only during short time periods when the cancel/drain light functioned correctly(not when blinking erratically) have checked door closed micro switch power fuse on control board soft touch buttons & ribbon. Entered diagnostic mode did not seemed OK when unit had not run.Wouldn't enter diagnostic mode after running & lights start flashing any trouble shooting help is appreciated.

1 Answer

Hello Greg, There are a few things you need to check before ordering parts. First remove the kick panel at the bottom of the unit. With the power to the unit turned off, remove the power connection cover/box. This is the box that contains the wire nut connections. You need to verify polarity and 120Vac. By polarity I am referring to the hot wire, neutral return, and ground. If the hot wire and neutral are swapped, this can cause all sorts of issues including premature control board failure and program deviations. also, it is important that neutral and ground are not crossed. If this all checks good, replace the control board WP8564543.

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1 Answer

Kara, If you are having an issue with the P4 connector, this is normal." Per Factory, This Sub Should Only Have 3 Terminals The P4(Y) Terminal Which Was On The Oriiginal Control Has Been Removed And Not Used On This Control." You'll need to tape off the end of the connector(for safety reasons) and tape or wire tie the wiring the a safe, clear area of the remaining wire harness. 't

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1 Answer

Hello Bill. Disconnect the power to the unit. Open the door and remove the screws securing the inner door panel. Remove the door panel. Now you can access the control board. Remove the thermal fuse from the unit and all the wires. Next remove the control and housing and install the new board WP8564543 in reverse order.

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Jillian for Model Number KUDD01DPPA1

I have 2 Kitchen-Aid dishwasher drawers. Problem is the same with both of them. After selecting cycle dishwasher fills with water and begins cycle only to stop mid-cycle - and regardless of cycle chosen appears to be stuck, blinking "Heavy/Rinse" litghts and they stop working. I have replaced the rotors in both, dried out the overflow pan underneath but the problem persists. So far it has cost me around $700 and no solution. Latest repair service thought there might be a slight puncture in the top drawer pan and suggested it should be replaced! More cost which as this stage would not be worth it. The control board appears to be sealed in the plastic tub - could this be the problem and if so how does one replace it? Does it mean completely disassembling the dishwashers? Any and all ideas/solutions would be welcomed. Thanks!

1 Answer

Hi. Code: Fill failure. Water supply valve turned off. Make sure the valve is cycled on and off a few times to remove any clogs or sediments. Inlet valve part # WP8194068 failed. Check resistance of the solenoid coils, 65-75 ohms per coil. Replace if open or more then 10% out of tolerance. Low water pressure. Incoming water pressure must be above 4.3psi. If the water inlet valve is good then make sure the inlet screen is not clogged. Spray arm not in place. Replace the wash arm in its proper location. Obstructed inlet supply water hose or kinked. Bad wiring to the junction box or the controller. Machine is siphoning. Check drain hose installation so there are no vapor locks creating siphoning. This is the tech sheet for the model. Control board part # WP8564543. Thank You.

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Margo

My dishwasher (Kitchenaid model # KUDP01DLBT0) does not drain completely at the end of a wash cycle. I have to push the cancel button to get it to drain. We already cleaned all the drain hoses, so there isn't a blockage of any kind. When I press the cancel button, the dishwasher displays "2" for the "2 minute" drain cycle, and the dishwasher drains for the full 2 minutes whether it needs to or not. It makes a horrible rackety sound while it is still trying to drain when there isn't any liquid left to drain. The dishwasher is 8 years old. Could this be a problem with the electronic control panel? If not the control panel, what could be causing this problem? Thanks!

1 Answer

Margo, You're going to need to remove and check the drain pump WP661658 and housing for debris, that could be causing the noise and the poor drain performance. Drain pump noise level will incease once the water is drained, but the "horrible rackety sound" is indicative of a problem. " Removing the Drain Pump Motor 1. With one hand, press back on the plastic tab that holds the pump motor from rotating. 2. With the other hand, rotate the pump motor counterclockwise approximately ¼ turn. The pump motor will now be free of the pump assembly."

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