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Customer Questions and Answers for Inf Switch Kit ( Dual ) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12026046
Manufacturer Part Number: 12002125

The Infinite Switch Kit (Dual) is an OEM part for Whirlpool ranges and cooktops. This kit includes the dual infinite switch, which allows for the independent control of two heating elements on the same burner. It provides precise control over the temperature settings for cooking surfaces, ensuring optimal performance.

Causes of a bad infinite switch can include wear and tear from frequent use, electrical surges, or exposure to moisture and spills. These issues can affect the switch's ability to regulate the burner temperature effectively.

Symptoms of a bad infinite switch include:

  • One or both burners not heating up or heating inconsistently
  • Burners staying at a fixed heat level regardless of the setting
  • Difficulty in adjusting the burner temperature
  • The switch feeling loose, stuck, or unresponsive

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Inf Switch Kit ( Dual ) (Part Number: OEM12026046)

Bob for Model Number JES9860AAB

I have replaced both dual infinite switches with part#12002125, and I believe I have switched the wires correctly from old switch to new; however both burners are continually on high. I have connected dual red wires to P2, a single red wire to 2. I have connected the jumper wire from P1 to S1, and a double black wire to P1. The single black wire goes to S2, and the yellow wire goes to H2 or 4a and the tan wire goes to H1 or 4. Can you tell me if this is correct or if it is what my next step should be to repair the stove. Thank you

1 Answer

Bob, With the temperature going straight to high then this issue would be caused by a faulty limiter on the burners and the elements would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Craig, There is an instruction sheet that comes with the part that will tell you how to wire the part. Unfortunately we do not have any wiring information on this unit to be able to tell you exact locations of the wires. If you look at the instructions sheet it tells you which terminals go to which and you would transfer the wire to there.

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1 Answer

Craig, The following is the instructions for your switch. 1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1) 2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire) 3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2) 4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element) 5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element) 6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light) 7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1. *On units with a compound connection, the two red wires must be separated. Locate the right front switch connection (L2). The red wire routed from the right rear element/switch will remain, but the red wire routed from the left rear element/switch must be disconnected, re-terminated and connected to position 2 on the new dual switch. *On units with an L2 piggyback connection, the two red wires must be separated. Locate the red wire routed to the L2 supply and connect it to position P2 on the new dual switch. Locate the red wire routed to the element and connect it to position 2 on the new dual switch. *On all other applications, the wire connected to the element should terminate to position 2 on the new dual switch

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1 Answer

KJK, Based on the way that you have the wires attached, this is the correct wiring. You will want to check from L1 to L2 if the unit is still not working for 240 vac. If there is proper voltage then test with the switch turned to the on position and check from 4 to 4a for 240 vac. If there is power there then the issue will most likely be in the wiring to the element or the element itself.

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1 Answer

Zack, You will want to make sure that you connected the wire for the indicator light to the S2 connection on the new switch. If not connected to this point it will not operate.

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1 Answer

Denny, The following is the instructions for your switch. 1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1) 2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire) 3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2) 4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element) 5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element) 6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light) 7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1. *On units with a compound connection, the two red wires must be separated. Locate the right front switch connection (L2). The red wire routed from the right rear element/switch will remain, but the red wire routed from the left rear element/switch must be disconnected, re-terminated and connected to position 2 on the new dual switch. *On units with an L2 piggyback connection, the two red wires must be separated. Locate the red wire routed to the L2 supply and connect it to position P2 on the new dual switch. Locate the red wire routed to the element and connect it to position 2 on the new dual switch. *On all other applications, the wire connected to the element should terminate to position 2 on the new dual switch

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1 Answer

Chris, The 2 wires that they would be referring to on your dual element switch would be the pink wires. They are just discolored. If you check the instructions with the part it gives specifics on how to wire the part. You will simple transfer most of the wires over to newly labeled number on the switch.

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1 Answer

Hello NEERAJ. The wire may have faded and that is the black. According to the wiring diagram of the model number you provided, there is a black wire. Try putting it where the black wire should be.

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Neeraj for Model Number CCE3401

Hi, I had ordered the Infinite Switch Kit ( Dual ) Part Number:12002125 for my Jenn Air CCE3401 cooktop. I was able to remove the old faulty switch without any difficulty. However, I am struggling a lot with the wire connections for the switch and need help. The wiring diagram that came with the new switch does not help and mentions compound or piggyback connection which I do not understand. The dual switch is for the dual burner (2400W/1000W) on the left back side of the cooktop. The old switch has five connections (wires). When you look at the back of the switch and with the "TOP" sign at the bottom, the red wire attaches just next to the TOP sign. Then going clockwise, the order of wires is purple, blue, grey and orange. I have a photograph of the switch with the wires attached. How do I send that to you? How should I connect the various wires on the replacement switch ? I noticed that there are 6 possible connections. Thanks.

1 Answer

Hello Neeraj. The double red must be separated. The red wire going to the element goes to number 2 of the new switch. The red hot wire (L2) goes to P2. The black wire goes to P1 on the new switch. The blue wire goes to number 4 on the switch. Violet goes to 4a on the switch. Orange goes to S2 on the new switch. You must use the black jumper sent with the new switch. Connect one end to the other P1 terminal then then the other end to S1 of the new switch.

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1 Answer

Rajs, Yes the dual infinite switch kit is the correct part for your unit and will line up with the temp selections when installed properly.

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